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Fuse configuration

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Hi,

 

I am working on finding the fault generating code.p0031,p0037 and p0141.

I have tested both lambdasonds and none of them seem to be damaged. What is the propability that both of them breaks at the same time?

 

When i look into my fusebox, i dont have any fuse on number 31.. Description for 31 is Lambda sensor. 

When i search for fusebox on internet, i see that there should be a fuse in 31.. 

 

Are there different configurations in different cars?

Mine has number 5J0010623A Does anyone have a description on wich fuses should  be there?

 

What happens if i place a fuse on position 31 at configuration 5J0010623A?

  • Sponsor

Is your 1.4 a BXW engine code?

If so, then yes, fuse 31 should be a 10A fuse feeding the heater circuit of both oxygen sensors.

 

  • Author

When i place a 10A fuse on 31, The indicated fuelconsumption rises dramaticly.

Errorcode for lambdasonds still remains.

 

 

  • Sponsor

Can you clear the error codes?

How many times have you driven the car since refitting the fuse?

  • Author

Yes, i can clear the errorcode, but it come back just in a minute.

 

I have just tested once.. drinving a couple of km.. then wen i shut of the car, remove the fuse, and start it again.. fuelconsumption is normal again.

 

I beleive i have never had a fuse there before.. but now when i get errorcodes on the preheater for lambda i think its strange that there are no fuse at that position..

 

  • Author

Are all 4 wires from lambda connected to ECU in the engine bay, or does the J519 control the heat circuit, and ECU bay the actual lambda voltage?

 

  • Sponsor

The fuse supplies one side of the heater in each sensor, the other wire of each heater, and the two main sensing wires from each all go to the engine ECU.

  • Author

So, then when i get a fault code on both lambdasonds.. it must be the lambdasond itself or the ECU in the engine bay that has an error?

 

As i understand the errorcode says its the lambda pre heating element voltage that are not correct..

 

I tried to ringout the cables from lambdasond to the ECU enginebay earlier.. but i did not find any cabel connected.. However, the car can read values from the Lambda.. so maybe i should try to ring it out oce again.. to confirm its really connected..

 

Edited by Andreas_Fabia_Driver

  • Sponsor

It's defeating my brain at the moment,  sorry.

You could measure the resistance of the heater on each sensor, I guess, in case both have burnt out 🔥?

  • Author

Initially, i did initially release both lambda sonds, testing that its alive by heating it up with gasol burner.

 

Both seem to give up to 1v.

 

I also checked the resistance.. and as far i as i remeber i gat a resistance.. (not open circuit... or short circuit).. 

 

But i did not find the cable up to Engine ECU. For that reason i beleived it might go via J519 and then to Engine ECU..

 

I will check the cable to lambdasond to Engine ECU once again..

 

Its so wiered, as my passenger door keep glitching open/close + my dayligt/half light that use to be on when light selector are in position "0" are also glitching.. light works just fine on half light position + Issues with lambdasonds heating element.

 

As all errors came at same time.. can it be J519 that handle signals/voltage for all these errors?  

Edited by Andreas_Fabia_Driver

  • Sponsor

Door problem will be the lock, I think. J519 has nothing to do with lambda sensors.

I will post a circuit diagram of the lambda wiring for you tomorrow. 

  • Author

Great!.. thanx for your support!

 

I have seen youtube videos, and also read about the small mini-switch in the lock unit, so i unmounted the switch, cleaned it.. did a simple measurement and it seem work.

 

I have run VCDS check, and i do not have any errorcodes more than lambdasond and AC compressor shortcircuit to + pole.

 

The door indicator glich intermitent, so the car think the door opens and close a lot of time..

When driving for a while, alarm sounds as the car think door is open while driving..

If you close the door.. everything seem to be fine.. but maybe after a minute... or longer.. the car think the door is open again.. for a short while..

 

Noone even touch the car.. when it happens 🙂

 

 

 

  • Sponsor

The door lock fault can be the solder joints where the connector attaches to the circuit board in the lock also, as well as the microswitch. 

 

20200910_162118.jpg

  • Author

Thanx..

 

Then i defenetley need to check the lock again 🙂

 

But still.. about lambdasonds.. may both of them break at the same time?

 

Tha car has done about 100000 km..

 

 

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47 minutes ago, Andreas_Fabia_Driver said:

may both of them break at the same time?

extremely unlikely

 

 

Screenshot 2023-01-15 22.07.56.png

  • Author

Have checked the doorlock now. Opend it and checked all solderings. All looks fine.

 

Door still glitching.. uhh..

  • Author

Another quite strange thing is that when i put in fuse 31, indicated fuelconsumption rises.

 

Anyone have similair experience?

 

Can the Lambda sond be faulty without showing an errorcode?

2 hours ago, Andreas_Fabia_Driver said:

Another quite strange thing is that when i put in fuse 31, indicated fuelconsumption rises.

 

Anyone have similair experience?

 

Can the Lambda sond be faulty without showing an errorcode?

 

Yes it can be faulty, it's quite common in fact.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Generally - do not put all your faith into the computer programs, warning lights and messages of the car or into one diagnostic tool like a scanner/code-reader.  The car's programs have parameters which can mean you detect some problems with your human senses before they do,  Sensors can wear/age and become inaccurate which will fool the car's computer programs.  Then there are electrical and communication issues to consider.  As you would with any information you get, cross reference sensor and diagnostic information with other sources of information (tools, your senses, published).

 

Edited by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

  • Author

Thanx for answering..

 

It is so strange.. 

I did not have any fuse inserted at position 31 before, and ha have never got any errorcode for it..

Now last weeks, the errorcode for lambdasond heating element appear, together with glitching door open/close connector.

 

When i read the wirediagram, (thanx for that @Breezy_Pete) it really make sense that there should be a fuse at position 31, otherwise pre-heating will not be possible. The car is equiped with 4 wire type lambdasond.. so why should it not be in use?..

The diagnose system from the car should have given errorcode long time ago as the fuse were not there..

 

Now when i place a fuse at pos 31... i don´t get the errorcode.. but indicated fuelconsumption rises..

If i remove the fuse, i get errorcode for heating element.. and indicated fuelconsumption goes down..

 

Reading out from VCDS, there are voltage detected in range from lambda. I have also measured it separate.. but maybe i 

 

My car seem to have its own life and logic.. maybe it was built on a monday.. 🙂

 

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

By the way I was not suggesting you should ignore all the stuff I listed just to bear in mind how they relate to the issue(s).  Car computer programs are very complicated and interconnected so sometimes seem to throw up odd things (I am not suggesting the lambdas with door lock 😄).  I have no idea about the wiring diagrams but the Owner's Manuals seem to have confusing and possibly wrong info sometimes and/or possibly variations based on what the model is and perhaps its sales region in the world.

 

Could fuse 31 have been removed by a past seller of the vehicle to hide the shown higher fuel consumption, whether the higher fuel consumption was actual or just shown or to just save finding or sorting any problem if there is one.

 

If you have tested both sensors was that with a multimeter and/or scanner and if they give the expected readings could they be working but be the wrong parts for your particular model or not factory fitted make and part, I have no idea how specific the requirement is on your model.  The others here will be able to help you with all this I cannot I was just giving generalities.

 

Good luck.

 

 

Edited by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

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