I had a search and couldn't find anything directly related to my octy.

I need to change the brake discs and pads all round on my octy TDI and while doing the pads will be easy enough I have no idea how hard discs are to change or what needs to be done.

Don't suppose somebody techy can give a 5 minute how to on this subject.

My main questions are should i need to bleed anything, do i need to remove the calipers to get the disk out, and what else do i need.

Thanks in advance

Easy as on the Octy TDi.

Just remove the caliper as normal (two 7mm allen key sliders) and remove the countersunk screw. FSIII brakes dont even have a carrier to unbolt.

No bleeding required.

Thanks Ross,

I take it the caliper should be supported somewhere when it's off and as I am returning the piston. Just don't fancy paying £100 of labour when the money is this tight if i can avoid it.

My BX looked easy, but then again I never had to do the discs on that.

Any special tools apart from a caliper piston winder?

EDIT: That your lady in the pic by the way?

You dont need a piston winder on the front, a g glamp or big pair of water pump pliers are more than enough.

Yes it is the missus.

Need to do front and rear in the next 5k i think (45 so far). Was a bit :( that i needed both at same time but hey thats life.

I'm guessing rears are as easy just tighter caliper means a need for a winder?

Oh and re your lady .

You need a winder for the back as you have to screw the piston back in due to the handbrake mech.

ta, shall see how much bits will set me back then probably give it a whirl, front first I guess.

I recently did all 4 and it was easy enough though I removed the carriers too, requiring an 8mm Allen Key for the rears and 18mm socket for the fronts, but sounds like that was unnecessary from Ross's reply.

I bought a winder from Halfords for the rears and used it as a clamp on the fronts too. I use an impact driver for removing the retaining screw if its really tight. The disc may still require some persuasion to come off - i.e. tap with a hammer - but a 3 leg puller may better if this doesn't work, though I didn't need one this time.

Edit: biggest hassle was finding that the wrong front discs had been supplied, after I'd removed one of the old ones. So check they're the same as soon as the wheel is off cos its a pain to refit an old disc to drive back to the parts supplier!

Did mine on a Vrs today,

Not that bad at all winding tool makes it a lot lot easier (i used it on the fronts as well with a small bit of expendable plastic in between so as not to damage the piston) the retaining screw on the disc one side was easy the other was a right pig! so an impact driver at the ready is a very good idea. if your looking at pattern parts i used Vwspares.co.uk who where pretty good

Looking at the brembro parts from GSF, Mintex parts from a local motor factor or genuine parts from a dealer or somebody for the discs.

Anyone know where you can pic up a hand impact driver as opposed to an electric one as they seem a bit rare these days.

Halfords for about £10

I did my TDi fronts on tuesday, took less than 30mins. Personally I would get hold of a retraction tool as you'll need it for the rears anyway (these require that you to push at the same time as you are turning the piston so the old trick of using the shaft of screwdriver won't work) It'll cost you less than £20 for a retractor tool.

also, keep an eye on the fluid level in the brake cylinder, It'll rise up suprisingly quickly when you push the pistons back. I used a plastic syringe to syphon the excess fluid back out of the cyclinder every couple of turns of the retractor tool.

I ended up removing well over 50 ml of brakefluid after doing both front and back discs !

What you mean undo cap to top of filler and take out 50ml?

Also don't suppose anyone knows the torques you ahve to do the bolts up to, or is it just suitably tight. Ta

Torque values should be listed in Mr Haynes (mine is in the car in the carpark - so I might go and get it later for a read)

What you mean undo cap to top of filler and take out 50ml?

Not exactly a case of removing it before you start but what I meant was' date=' when you are retracting the pistons back, you will need to have the lid of the brake mastercyclinder unscrewed. When the pistons are going back into the calipers they will displace brake fluid back into the mastercyclinder and , assuming your brake fluid level was right before you started working on the brakes, there will now be too much and it will begin to overflow out of the top of the mastercylinder. In my case, over four calipers this came to around 50ml in your case you may or may not get this much (depends on how worn your pads were) but you will probably need to remove some as you go along ( [b']NOT IN ADVANCE[/b] )or it will overflow out of the cylinder and I would definitely keep a regular check on the level as you are pushing the pistons back into the calipers.

Oh and keep the fluid away from the paintwork as it will strip the paint off.!!

Basically yes, but I'd recommend working change pads at one corner, check fluid level, change pads at next corner... and only drain off fluid when the level goes above the marked maximum.

Thats ok was what i meant

The pads i think are pretty worn, so will no doubt need to obtain a syringe somewhere

Thats ok was what i meant

The pads i think are pretty worn' date=' so will no doubt need to obtain a syringe somewhere [/quote']

you can get a cheapo syringe from the chemists, they usually sell them for administering cough medicine to babies

I went and got brembro discs and some pagid pads from GSF and am going to give it a go tomorrow. So next obvious questions are, are there any torque values for the bolts going back on and also where are the suitable jacking points and place for a pair of axle stands on an octy?

Thanks

Defeated by rust... how embaressing.

It's pretty easy to do, except when the disk appears to be so rusted to the hub that it just isn't moving :(

Oh well never mind.

What do any of you guys use to get a disk off when the hammer technique doesn't work, and what can you put on it to stop that being a problem again.

My hammer never fails, just need to stop being a woman and hit it.

(assuming you took the screw out of course)

My hammer never fails' date=' just need to stop being a woman and hit it.

(assuming you took the screw out of course)[/quote']

Oi - yes i took the screw out. :P

I belted the thing, even got me father to give it a go too and neither of us could get the damn thing off. Otherwise the FSIII is nice to work on as v easy to do, just couldn't budge the disk :(

Hit the part wher it connects to the hub and from behind.