Hi guys,

 

I have been thinking to change the front shocks for my car 1.4TSI Hatchback 2017 150psi. It is now 88,300 miles on the clock. Would this be a good idea to change all four coil springs as well to give the car a bit extra life and some extra comfort for the riders.  I do part time cabing as well. So it goes through millions of potholes in london everynight. Last night it hit so hard underneath that freaked me out. I wish if i can raise the car a bit..so underneath doesn't get hurt once crossing a big speed bumps. Well, I am open for any recommendation to upgrade the shocks and springs..You guys are genius and I am still learning. Thanks.

 

 

Edited 31 January, 20233 yr by automass

3 hours ago, automass said:

Hi guys,

 

I have been thinking to change the front shocks for my car 1.4TSI Hatchback 2017 150psi. It is now 88,300 miles on the clock. Would this be a good idea to change all four coil springs as well to give the car a bit extra life and some extra comfort for the riders.  I do part time cabing as well. So it goes through millions of potholes in london everynight. Last night it hit so hard underneath that freaked me out. I wish if i can raise the car a bit..so underneath doesn't get hurt once crossing a big speed bumps. Well, I am open for any recommendation to upgrade the shocks and springs..You guys are genius and I am still learning. Thanks.

 

New springs and shock absorbers will bring the ride height back to standard.

 

Increased ride height springs will only increase the ride height by about 15mm.

 

The problem with increased ride height springs and shock absorbers is the difficulty finding ones that are a good match to the original Skoda parts that the increased ride height cars use, as the aftermarket is generally aimed as standard ride height cars.

 

Try the standard ride height with new springs and shock absorbers, and if you're still not happy with the ride height fit slightly oversize tyres with a slightly bigger outside diameter, but I doubt you would need to do that even for London roads. Most people who fit increased ride height springs and shock absorbers take their cars off-road such as down rutted dirt tracks...and that's where the Octavia Scout comes in, as that car uses both 15mm increased ride height springs and approximately 15mm increased ride height from the tyres...making a total increase in ride height of about 30mm.

 

Front springs for Octavia MK3 1.4 petrol 150HP hatchback DSG standard ride height 5Q0411105GH

Kilen 23129

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354459092355?

 

Rear springs for Octavia MK3 1.4 petrol 150HP hatchback DSG standard ride height without towbar 5Q0511121AE

Kilen 63139

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354459092356

 

Good matching aftermarket springs were easy to find. Not so easy, is finding good matching aftermarket shock absorbers...at least without the OEM part numbers for the original shock absorbers that the car left the factory with.

 

So what are the OEM part numbers for your front and rear shock absorbers?

 

You can find these out if you have all your car's build codes.

 

There's an ebay seller who can supply your car's build codes for about 3 Euros.

 

Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find the listing

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243

 

As you can see below, some of your car's build codes may include L03 1JA 0YE.

 

If your car is still on the original front springs, they should be marked with coloured dots that are used to identify them. 1 Blue dot and 1 Violet dot means that the front springs have OEM part number 5Q0411105GH, as shown below.

 

It looks like the rear springs aren't marked with coloured dots.

 

Front coil spring 5Q0411105GH L03
1 Blue dot, 1 Violet dot

 

Rear coil spring 15Q0511121AE 1JA+0YE

 

Edited 31 January, 20233 yr by Carlston

If you want a different opinion to the very knowledgeable man above I'll give my thoughts.

The springs are not likely to be affected even at that age unless there is damage. The shocks could well need replacing and a fresh set of originals would do you fine. If you want something with a bit more support that won't blow through the travel then I can recommend bilstein b6. Standard ride height but firmer and much better damping.

I would also put your money into the bushes while it's coming apart. Sounds like you have given it a bit of hard time so some fresh joints would give it some new life. Don't have to be expensive. I wouldn't go for poly or the like. New originals should be fine and make the car feel tight again.

3 hours ago, MarkyG82 said:

If you want a different opinion to the very knowledgeable man above I'll give my thoughts.

The springs are not likely to be affected even at that age unless there is damage. The shocks could well need replacing and a fresh set of originals would do you fine. If you want something with a bit more support that won't blow through the travel then I can recommend bilstein b6. Standard ride height but firmer and much better damping.

I would also put your money into the bushes while it's coming apart. Sounds like you have given it a bit of hard time so some fresh joints would give it some new life. Don't have to be expensive. I wouldn't go for poly or the like. New originals should be fine and make the car feel tight again.

 

I like your thought as well. do I have to change all four shocks or just only front? if only front then would the front of the car be not lifted then the back (I am just assuming). If it is four then  it's gonna be quite a lot of money. I saw one of them costs around £181 (Strut outside diameter 55mm) and also £136 (50mm). How do I know which one is mine!

instead if i just change front and rear coil spring..or 4 coil springs and two shocks for the front? front shocks got little bit of oil misting. (I can not see the rear, they are hidden).

Any other thought from anybody else.

 

Did anybody try anything with their similar model car? where can i get those increased Coil Spring as Carlston was talking about?

In my experience the standard Octavia suspension is quite good if performing to specification.

While our current mk3 with torsion bar rear suspension and 17 inch wheels is not as good as our previous mk2 with rear irs and 15 inch wheels, it still acquitted itself remarkably well on some 80km of unintended travel on a dirt road rally (Targa Tasmania) section to a remote National Park in Western Tasmania with four on board and boot full of luggage.

I have driven on London roads and they really don't compare  .

Sure big potholes should be avoided, otherwise it will cost you. After the bang you describe I'd be considering getting the front wheel alignment checked, and while you are there get your suspension professionally checked. It is your work vehicle and so you have an obligation to maintain it and I'm sure costs are claimed in your tax returns.

Speed bumps (and worse, speed dips) have to be taken at a speed commensurate with vehicle load and bump/dip size. I've seen SUVs with plenty of ground clearance and overconfident drivers nearly lose control when taken them too fast. It has nothing to do with ground clearance (except with Ferraris and Lambos etc and that is just funny to watch on the many speed bumps/dips we have locally).
 

As a cabbie do you run your tyres at high rather than comfort pressures because you can never be certain when you will pick up a maximum load? That is what I would do and it would minimise the effects of any unintentional high speed road contact

Consider also that changes to the suspension specification may adversely affect your insurance premium, especially as a commercial passenger carrier. Or if undeclared invalidate any claim in the event of an incident.

When refreshing / upgrading the suspension it might be simply clever to drop the rims size from 17" to 16" and get tyres on with more sidewall.

Rather than the previous idea of less sidewall.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509273-is-it-possible-to-upgrade-the-wheel-bigger-size

 

6 hours ago, automass said:

. do I have to change all four shocks or just only front? 

 

Given the age of the car I would get all 4 done. The rears are quite cheap compared to the front. I would guess you have 50mm front shocks. 55 are usually for vrs or 4x4 models. To find out you could get some string and wrap it round the front shock at the bottom where it goes into the hub. 157mm round and you have 50mm. 172mm round it's 55mm.

6 hours ago, MarkyG82 said:

 

Given the age of the car I would get all 4 done. The rears are quite cheap compared to the front. I would guess you have 50mm front shocks. 55 are usually for vrs or 4x4 models. To find out you could get some string and wrap it round the front shock at the bottom where it goes into the hub. 157mm round and you have 50mm. 172mm round it's 55mm.

 

Do you recon not to change any Coil Springs, just the shocks for all around? To be honest, car has no problem of anything, just front shocks had trace of oil (Oil misting) one year ago during MOT. ( I have a thread about it in this forum). still no oil leaking, just oil misting .wheel alignments are perfect (I can drive it without holding the steering and it will be going straight line). I may have a look the rear shocks as well. I love my car and always take good care of it.

I would do my best to climb underneath and inspect the springs before doing anything else.  Also take a look at as many bushes as you can.  Bushes are cheap but potentially labour intensive compared to other jobs so the more you know before handing over to a garage the better.  Springs may sag over time but they are inherently stable single piece items.  Unless damaged by corrosion or impact they should be fine.  However, they need to come out to change the shocks so if you are at all concerned it may be a good time to do the springs. Especially the fronts as the shocks need to come apart for those.  It's a good time (labour cost) saving to have the front built up before hand (shock + spring + top mount) then just swap them over.  Rears aren't constructed the same way but are real easy to do so no time save needed.

 

The garage will make very little money in changing the springs as they have to come out anyway.  So it's down to budget.  If you can afford springs then go for it.  If they look good then no point.  If you want to increase the rear support search through @Carlston's many posts for part numbers of uprated springs.

Just wondering is it DIYable to change the shocks,springs, bushes etc. I have very basic tools like one scissor jack, one bottle jack, pair of 2 Tonne Axle Stands, torque wrench bar, sockets, a hammer drill (not driver or wrench) and some other very basic tools. Local garage will not pay attention the way I'll love to do. So, just asking for the expert opinion. Thanks.

How often does your local authority have Mini Cabs tested is it it a free for all and just an annual MOT?

 

Go to a garage that will do what you want correctly if you do not know what you are doing.    London has plenty mechanics.  Plenty mini cabs as well driving the same roads.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/502142-lift-kit-for-fabia-mk1/page/2

 

1 hour ago, toot said:

How often does your local authority have Mini Cabs tested is it it a free for all and just an annual MOT?

 

Go to a garage that will do what you want correctly if you do not know what you are doing.    London has plenty mechanics.  Plenty mini cabs as well driving the same roads.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/502142-lift-kit-for-fabia-mk1/page/2

 

I don't get what you were trying to mean. How local authority and mini cabs relate to my questions!!!!!

It is certainly a DIY job if you have the appetite/time/skill.  Toot touches on an important factor as you are using it for private hire.  Maybe worth finding a garage that will do the work and offer a level of warranty that would not likely be possible with a DIY job.

 

Sounds like you have most of the tools required.  One thing that is uncommon is a triple square spline bit (12mm maybe?) for the hub pinch bolts.  Also something knocked up to spread the hub to release the bottom of the shock.  Spring compressors too.  All this is for the fronts.  You could get a garage to do the front and do the rear yourself if desperate to save money/have a go.

I was more thinking safety of paying customers. 

Use a mechanic that might not earn much more per hour than an the same hours mini-cabbing and gets parts cheaper than you maybe can unless you get trade discounts.

 

Car maintenance is an overhead of the business after all and the tax man recognises that. 

Edited 2 February, 20233 yr by toot

I have very bad experience with garage. most of them are dodgy. recently, had it oil and oil filter changed, the guy put whole 5liters in it and also made a mess on the engine bay. I am sick off taking the car to the garage. the other time, i had oil sump repair/replace because of hitting the potholes..garage guy fixed the job for £250. when i asked him what did he do and where is my original parts. he gave me a dodgy part saying that it was broken and he replaced it with new one. I've a thread about it in this forum.

 

Money is not that much fact here. but they do not pay attention to the job. they will not dust out of the parts or surrounding areas which I'll do with great care and also will inspect if any other parts needs attention.

 

Safety and doing the job properly is my concern. hence I am asking if i can get the car lifted with the resources i have, would it not be easy enough to swap the parts! just wondering, if not then I have to definitely take it to a reliable garage and leave it with them reluctantly.  thanks MarkyG82  for your advice.

Edited 2 February, 20233 yr by automass

If you undertake the work then what sort of environment would you be working in? Consider that it is currently cold and wet outside.

 

Do the parts even NEED to be replaced? If not then I think you would be far better off being more attentive for potential hazards on the road when driving.

 

I have inspected the rear shocks and springs today.. There are no signs of damage of any springs or shocks. Changing the shocks seemed to be very easy for the Rear. Only bottom two nuts and top two nuts. Scissor jacks can be used to lift the part when needed. Once the bolts are out probably coil spring will jump out itself or little wiggle will make the spring come out very easily. N.B: I did paint the Springs and Calipers when I bough the car if you wonder why they are blue.

 

Rear Shocks Left and Right: 5Q0512013KH

Rear Spring Left and Right: 5Q0 511 121 AD

 

Front Shocks Left and Right: 5Q3412014K

Front Springs: blue and red dot, Couldn't get the original aprt number though. I'll try in the morning.

 

I have checked the rear coil spring with the part number and in autodoc I found lots of different makes and they all are in different lengths which are in mm 343, 348, 349 and 352. I am just wondering how long was my original one. If it was 343mm then I could go for 352 now and it will give me quite a bit of height.

Edited 6 February, 20233 yr by automass

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Edited 6 February, 20233 yr by classic
Deleted

I've checked the front suspension today and they are leaking..not that bad but I have decided to replace them. Shall I go for Bilstein B6 or Bilstein B4. I want some heavy duty but comfortable one. I may change the coil spring as well. Next project will be rear and I'll change them myself. At the moment I am gonna use a garage to do the job.

 

Got the part number: 5Q0413023GH

 

Edited 6 February, 20233 yr by automass

Front Monroe Shocks + CS Germany Coil Springs and rear just coil spring (JAPKO Coil Springs) have been fitted. All the original coil springs were absolutely fine..no problem at all. Still just for piece of mind I have changed them. Front right shocks were damaged and left has still some life left.. Car feel very solid over the humps now. Next will be changing the rear shocks...but not too soon though.

 

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by automass

Just wondering do I need my wheel alignment checked up as i had my front shocks and coil springs replaced? Tank you.

1 hour ago, automass said:

Just wondering do I need my wheel alignment checked up as i had my front shocks and coil springs replaced? Tank you.

 

I never do a front wheel alignment check (front toe-in/toe-out check) when I change my front shock absorbers and springs, as it doesn't alter the front toe-in/toe-out setting...and my front tyres have never worn unevenly as a result.

 

Edited 20 February, 20233 yr by Carlston