Hi guys, The cold messed my boy up bad this time. 

 

The fan inside stopped working and without it it is quite impossible to drive in the cold as mist builds up and freezes. I can hear some tiny creaking (are there 2 fans or is this a flap?) from the inside of the dash for a second but stops and no air is being circulated. Also the recirculation button does not work, all others work. 

I got some missing messages from the A/C controller,
Cylinder 4 Glow plug fault in circuit,
Aux. heating no signal, Heater element for aux. heating - defect.

fresh air blower defect,
Terminal 30 open circuit, Function limitation due to under voltage, Terminal 58d - open short to plus, Horn - open short to ground,
Generator terminal DF load signal - implausible,
control module for climatronic - no signal,

control module for climatronic and aux. air heater - no signal,

Door eletrical curcuit also faulty,

Àll Electric window motors - no or incorrect basic settings (what),

Also my speaker driver side fell down and stopper working, could this maybe short something...

 

So suddenly a bunch of problems arose aligned with the lack of air being circulated. I tested the Air blower by giving direct power and it was functioning perfectly. When trying to provide power through the control module nothing happened. So this one is might be broken, however the method I used was a bit wack and might just be me not hitting it hard enough with the cables or just doing it wrong. I tried with 12V and 9V batteries. I checked fuses, all good. I opened the entire casing under the dash on both sides to inspect if anything were broken or missing. Everything looks fine inside. I would assume problems occur outside under the hood because of corrosion, but it is rather difficult to "see" what is bad and what is not. I also opened the climatronic to see if there were some bad connections on the board, but it almost looked brand new! I also tested the cable leading to the fan and got good ground and power connection, however the connection with regulated voltage according to climate control did not produce any voltage, leading me to think maybe 'I should wait with buying a new control module for the fan until I figure this out. I scanned the vehicle after I took out the climatronic (ofc. put it in again before scanning), but maybe the codes would need to be cleared... just realized this, well. The open circuit in terminal 30 have been around for quite some time and I find it hard to find information on where this terminal is located. Glow plug fault circuit is new. not sure where to find this.

 

What I really want with this post is just to ask if someone sees an obvious connection between all these faults or have some experience that could guide me in the right direction as to where I should be testing for the faults. Is it under the hood or under the dashboard. Relays seem fine, but I will test each and every one of them this weekend.

This is a bit sad as I was looking forwards to a rather relaxing weekend. And of course my boy Koda chooses the coldest period to stop functioning. Literally 10 degrees (C) last week, he could have done it then! He really does not enjoy being cold 😞 Please help me save my boy, I ain't giving up on him, even if I have to thread every cable over again!

 

Thank you for your time and effort,

- Tor

10 hours ago, TorH said:

I can hear some tiny creaking (are there 2 fans or is this a flap?

This is one of the signs of  the nylon gears on the flap motor are jammed or slipping. You may need to change the appropriate flap motor.

 

10 hours ago, TorH said:

Terminal 30 open circuit, Function limitation due to under voltage, Terminal 58d - open short to plus, Horn - open short to ground,

Terminal 30 is a high current supply from the battery and goes to many fuses. So if you have corrosion in its feed or output connection this give this fault code. 

You have not put your model, model year, or country detail below your name so I have to guess you are in Scandinavia, Iceland or a Baltic state as you also have an auxiliary heater (almost unknown in the UK).

Disconnect the battery then look at the bottom of the fuseboard in the engine bay.  Some people have reported corrosion on the bottom of the printed circuit board board and the connections to the fuses.

 

Failure of a supply from terminal 30 will account for many of the symptoms mentioned

 

Once we have the details of your car I am sure someone will come along with further help based on your particular car's wiring diagram.

 

 

4 hours ago, pikpilot said:

Once we have the details of your car I am sure someone will come along with further help based on your particular car's wiring diagram.

My car model is Skoda Octavia mk 2 2005 1.9 tdi. Can never really figure out if it is combi, legacy or what type it is. It is the one with "big" luggage space. 

 

Apologies, i seem to have forgotten to add my car model. I made it a bit late last night. Thank you for your tips and expertise. 

6 hours ago, pikpilot said:

country detail below your name so I have to guess you are in Scandinavia, Iceland or a Baltic state as you also have an auxiliary heater (almost unknown in the UK).

And yes you are correct with Scandinavia, Norway. 

13 hours ago, pikpilot said:

So if you have corrosion in its feed or output connection this give this fault code. 

Okay so I dug into the fusebox under the hood and saw a some I would like to ask if is "enough corrosion" and I also saw a cable going from the fusebox to the car which might be the answer to my problem.

Would you say the corrosion on the connections in figure 1 are enough to be a problem and should be changed/polished?

 

Figure 1 - Fusebox connections

 

Figure 2 shows the location of the potential "master" issue and Figure 3 is zoom in of the issue. Do you agree this might be the problem and should be cut and resoldered with shrinks? 

 

Figure 2 - Overview of cables going from fusebox

Figure 3 - Zoom in

Edited 11 March, 20233 yr by TorH

Really annoying I cannot edit posts after a certain amount of time, but I also wanted to ask if testing air flow flaps outside of the car will be a problem because it messes with the positioning or if it does not matter and is fine to provide it with energy to see if it functions properly?

I suggest repair the cables shown in figure 3 before doing anything else. I think fig 1 looks normal/OK.

Freedom membership enables indefinite editing, and many other enhancements. Membership Options (Freedom) - BRISKODA

 

1) Flap motor. I do know whether the  motors are small dc motors or, more likely stepper motors. That is what I would have used if I was designing it. You would need specialist equipment to test a stepper motor outside the car.

 

Cables. As Pete said, first repair the damaged cables. I would say the likely cause of your problem is the corrosion of the 60A and 100A cables at their terminations shown in your second picture. The 100A double black cable has its strands of wire so badly corroded that it is almost certain to be the cause of your Terminal 30 fault code. Make repairs to both the 60A double cable and the 100a black double cable. 

I would suggest letting an auto electrician do the work as he will have the the correct cable, crimp connector and crimping tools. He may find other places with cable corrosion that is not in your photos.

 

Did you find any corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board?

 

 

 

Edited 11 March, 20233 yr by pikpilot
added missing word

16 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

Did you find any corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board?

By this i am assuming you mean all the pins sticking out from "under" the fuses on the fuse box in figure 1. These pins looked almost as good as new with no corrosion. 

 

Thank you both for Great tips, I will try a repair and give feedback on whether it worked or not. Saw a youtube video of someone testing the motor on the air flaps. Seems to be No problem as long as the position is noted down before messing with it. The motor itself is just plus and minus, opposite poles for reversing. The potentiometer outputs ohms in two places and noting those down and aligning after should lead to "No changes". How easy probably a question though. However using less volt makes it go slower. Not sure if the car itself has a "resetting" system that can "fix" misalignment. But i will only open these air flaps to check for wear and tear on the components. If only the gears are broken i can 3D print a new one. Also a lot cheaper to buy components rather than the entire air flap. 

6 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Freedom membership enables indefinite editing, and many other enhancements. Membership Options (Freedom) - BRISKODA

Oh, I did not realize that, thanks for pointing that out. 6£ or even 10£ a year is not that bad, might actually opt in. 

4 hours ago, TorH said:

However using less volt makes it go slower. Not sure if the car itself has a "resetting" system that can "fix" misalignment

 

It would be better to fix the wiring first before looking again at the flap motor as it will be getting a reduced voltage via the corroded cables. This will reduce the power of the motor as it is a dc motor. Once the cables are fixed the flap motor may not need any attention.

 

There is a procedure to test and reset all the flap motors by pressing a combination of climatronic buttons. The exact buttons to use varies with the model year. There are videos on line which show how to do it on certain models.

Okay, so I have an update. Managed to fix the cables and the fan is now working again! 

 

However, now the canbus is not working and I cannot run a check, which means that either I messed up with one of the cables or removing and inserting the cable to the ecm module is not a very smart thing to do...

 

Do you know which cable the canbus is connected to (100, 200, 80 or 50), or if it is because I unplugged and plugged in the ecm module cable meaning I have to do some extra steps`?

 

Thanks for the great help!

Tor H

Can't help you too much on this as i do not have wiring diagram for your version.

The large power cables go to few big loads but mostly to other other fuseboards where they supply small fuses going to smaller loads.

One way to get a clue is to see which other smaller loads are not working, such as wipers, window raise/lower, radio  etc etc.

On the ecm question, Disconnect the battery then unplug the cable again and examine for bent contacts, chafed wires or other damage.

I did it! The car is working better than ever before! All fault codes are gone! ...or at least almost, just the heater element for the auxiliary heating that is defective now!

I did as you said pkipilot and unplugged the battery and checked the connection for the ECM module. Nothing was wrong, just plugged it back in and it worked...

 

Thank you guys for all the amazing help and have a good day! :D

Well done.

You may have had some moisture in the connector.

Keep an eye on all the power cables, particularly for corrosion on the power wires where they go into the crimp connector. Check also at the earth wire on the alternator where it goes to the engine/body as this comes up quite often.

38 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

Well done.

You may have had some moisture in the connector.

Keep an eye on all the power cables, particularly for corrosion on the power wires where they go into the crimp connector. Check also at the earth wire on the alternator where it goes to the engine/body as this comes up quite often.

Yes, thank you. Actually have low input from alternator, so I am gonna have a go at cleaning the connections there and checking the entire cable. Perhaps also might be getting old, but won't change it until absolutley nescessary.