This year I am off camping again and want to remove back seatbelt middle anchor so as to remove upright rear seat back. 

 

It is held in place by a star shaped bolt. Someone suggested a Torx T50 but it is not that. Has "ESKA" emblazoned on the bolt. Looks about 10mm. Twelve (.?)points on the star. 

 

Does anyone know what these are actually called?

 

Frankly I would be tempted to get some sort of shackle for seatbelt end that I could unclip when I needed to do this. 

 

Many thanks. Bob 

XZN.

Can get the nominal size by measurement and reference to this chart:

 

triplesquaretable.pdf

12 point triple square.  You will destroy a torx bit trying to use it. Not 12 point double hex - point angles will be different. M10 is my guess.

Edited 2 June, 20233 yr by inspectorman
addition

Well, that is impressive. Both of you. Thanks. I'll probably swap it out for a similar hex bolt and then ask local mechanic if there is an MOT friendly caribiner or anchor clip so I'll never have to do this again. 

Extremely unlikely on the last point, I think.

Probably right about the shackle Pete. Though I have a vague memory of a mixed use transit with something similar. I removed the bench seat last year Which gave more space for the upright cushion to hinge forward. With plenty of time I figured I would try to get the whole thing out. I had difficulty believing the folded seats took as much space as two medium suitcases. 

Present it for MOT without the rear seats.

 

OTOH maybe they still check the seat belts so you might have to remove them also.

 

A couple of people on here are well up on the MOT regulations (I am 2 decades out of date) who will advise if I am talking Bravo Sugar again.

I did actually look up the requirements on the. Gov.Uk website and both anchors and caribiners are mentioned. It's not important, it just seemed an easier way to offer quickly removing the upright seat back and getting a level storage space. But I got the triple square socket and once I get the bolt out I'll switch it for a standard hex. One down side is there will still be a "fin" sticking up that supports the seat hinge. 

Well this is annoying. I got the exact socket which fitted perfectly, then after a little bit of movement shredded the angles. 

 

The isofix bracket is in the way for mole grips. Before I start drilling it out, does anyone know how long this seatbelt anchor bolt is so I don't go too deep?

 

Regards 

Bob 

 

 

Damaged the tool or the head of the bolt?

Well I've learnt something this morning. Apparently these screws/bolts are an imperial thread 7/16" -20 UNF.

There seem to be a couple of different lengths suggested, not sure on what basis. PM your VIN and it may help me to narrow it down to 1.

On 02/06/2023 at 14:20, Polaris said:

Does anyone know what these are actually called?

Based on your photo of the fastener head, I'd call it "mullered".

They have always been so, the standards for seat belt anchorages were written using Imperial units and threads, to conform a seatbelt anchorage plate has to have the H7 clearance hole size for a 7/16" UNF fastener and the captive nut and bolt must both be of that thread.

 

It is unlikely that it will ever change as it would mean a replacement belt fitted to an old vehicle would not meet the test criteria nor an older belt fitted to a newer vehicle.

 

Motorsport suppliers can provide conforming 7/16" eyebolts and also carabiner latch type end plates for the seatbelts but that would involve unpicking and redoing the stitching that only someone like Willans are authorised to do.

11 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

Based on your photo of the fastener head, I'd call it "mullered".

That was before he got an XZN tool, I think, so 'as fitted by Skoda'. Not sure I see anything wrong with it. Unless he had a go with some other tool.

New photo of screw head and close up of tool used this time would be good.

Edited 11 June, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete
Duplication

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Edited 11 June, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete

Right you are. That is the before picture. Nothing done to it. 

 

It never occurred to me about Imperial sizes. I got a full set of metric and the 10mm fitted with no slack. The bolt turned about 20° then the metal star just shredded. The socket wrench is still perfect. 

 

It's not some sort of reverse thread is it?

 

Anyway it now looks awful and frankly I just want to get that bolt out and put a fresh one in. Hence drill out with left handed drill but dont want to go too far. 

 

 

Not a reverse thread, message me with VIN for me to look up length of fastener. 

If you use a drill larger than 7/16" it'll drill the head off, free the stuff under it, and the remnant of the screw won't be under any tension so should be 'finger loose'?

Most of these seat belt/seat bolts have a healthy splodge of threadlock on them and it can make them very tight. That could be the issue.

The Final Episode. 

 

Thank you all for suggestions. 

 

With the help of a mechanic friend we sheared the head of the bolt off. Leaving a 1cm stub sticking out. So off across the hills to a keen welder called Franky who welded a nut on and with lots of heaving got the bolt out. It had been cross threaded. Don't know how because it had never been touched before. 

 

He also retapped the hole. What a champ. I ordered the bolt online by part number but on arrival it still seemed too short. So I opted for a hex bolt that was still 7/16th at 20 tpi and was 50mm instead of 25. 

 

I thought I would have to trim it down. But it fits right in. 

Actually I'll add one little thing is case it is of use. Below the belt anchor is a set of wires from the seatbelt across to the wiring loom. I was given all sorts of apocalyptic advice about accidentally setting off the airbags. But thanks you common sense from Breezy_Pete I can now say - 

 

The black connector separates by pulling out the square bit at the side. 

I made sure key was out of ignition as a precaution. 

Then on turning on ignition all I got was a seatbelt warning icon for that position. 

 

Bob