Long story short: The speedometer gear has decided to take a dive into the depths of the gear box.

It's the older one with a metal shaft.

So the engine is inside house now.

 

There is a week long holiday here. The only day I'll have access to the work shops or parts stores is Monday.

I need the car on July 3rd. It's very important.

 

So please advise.

I'm making a list of gaskets etc.

What do I have to check when the engine is out?

As you can see there is a broken tooth on the flywheel. Is that important?

 

Also, I don't know If I can remove the speedometer gear without separating the gear box. Is there a known way?

If I separate it, can I join it again with basic tools? Should I take it to a gearbox specialist?

 

When removing the gear box from the engine, fork pins are broken.

Can I replace those with bolts?

Stages:

1- I saw it deep down.

 

2- Getting closer

 

After 3 hours of non-stop fishing, the damn thing is out.

 

 

Notes about the work;

If something like this happens to, you, forget about getting this gear from oil plug, shaft inputs, etc.

You can only remove it from the gearbox exactly how it dropped.

First, I've tried to remove it with the plastic part facing upwards. It's getting stuck that way.

 

Practically, I can put everything on the car after getting gaskets.

You are damn lucky getting it out. 

I'm very happy 

On 26/06/2023 at 13:36, Thefeliciahacker said:

You are damn lucky getting it out. 

I'm very happy 

Thanks.

 

I've never thought it was possible to drop the speedometer gear in the gearbox.

 

My advise to all viewers, measure gearbox oil level with dipping a vernier caliper's stick extension or use a long wood stick, dip it into oil and measure the oil level on the stick just like measuring engine oil.

I did this many times before but I won't use the speedometer gear for measuring the oil level ever again.

 

The engine is back inside its bay. The car is running again.

 

You may ask, "why did you removed engine and gearbox together? You could just remove the gearbox."

I had some other plans with the engine but we cancelled all due to time constraints.

I couldn't even deal with the minor oil leaks.

 

What else did I do?

Must have's:

- Replaced axle seals.

- Replaced gear selector shaft seal with its rubber boot.

- The fork pins I've mentioned above are not broken. Actually there is only one fork pin. It was under a heavy coat of grease and dirt. I've placed the bearing back to its place after cleaning it.

- New gasket for manifolds.

- New gasket for thermostat housing.

- New gasket for exhaust down-pipe connection.

- Inspected the clutch. Still has life. Compressed thickness 7mm.

 

Worn items:

- CV joint boots were worn on left side. I've replaced both inner and outer.

- The iron pipe of the coolant system had its hanging attachment broken. I mean the part to bolt it on the engine. I've bought a new pipe. I'm glad I did that...

- There were cracks on the old original coolant reservoir. I've replaced that too.

- In the last days, fan thermal switch was acting erratic. I was using a Calorstat TS1151. It started to run the fan again for a short duration after completing its normal cooling period. I couldn't find a direct replacement this time. So I'm using a TDS 87-92.

 

For future readers; If you are going to remove both axles, please don't forget to insert something into the first axle socket you remove to hold the gear inside. It should resist moving of the gearbox itself when carrying. If you forget this little step, the gears inside the differential will drop inside the gearbox.

Please check this out:

 

After removing the iron coolant pipe for the first time, what I've discovered:

 

I regret that I've never checked this pipe.

My initial tests show that, after replacing this pipe, cooling capacity of the car has noticeably increased.

I've replaced almost everything regarding cooling system. This pipe and the coolant pump was the only parts still remaining.

 

 

 

 

Cracks on the old expansion tank is visible. It wasn't leaking but I think it was a good idea to replace this.

 

A friendly remainder:

If you buy an aftermarket expansion tank, check its hose connection parts.

Mine had its small pipe entry blocked with plastic from factory. I had to drill it. If you miss something like this, results could be terrible.

As a rule of the thumb, don't trust aftermarket parts.

On 01/07/2023 at 17:16, R_Blue said:

After removing the iron coolant pipe for the first time, what I've discovered:

 

 

Where in the engine is that pipe?

52 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Where in the engine is that pipe?

 

under the coolant pump, it's return pipe from the radiator. MPI one is slightly different, it has only one inlet for the heater return hose, SPI/carburettor has an extra inlet for Intake preheating.