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Should I fix it or fit a new engine?


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Hello, So I bought this 1.8 tsi Octi 4 Months ago, Previous owner didn't take care of it that much, However, since I bought it I've been taking care of it, replacing a lot of parts for new ones and just regularly checking on the overall health of the car.

 

but one thing I didn't check is the engine, Car only has 90k miles on it, no visible wear on the engine and no suspicious sounds either.

 

Yesterday, EPC Light went off, hooked it up to a code reader and there was a Misfire in Cylinder #3, So I suspected it was either coils or spark plugs, switched them but the misfire is still in Cylinder #3, Then checked on the fuel injectors but they turned out fine.

 

Today I took the engine apart and looked at the Damage, I'm in shock, should I fix it or just skip the hassle and buy a new engine?

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What damage?

 

Number 3 bore?

 

3 paragraphs describing the symptoms but not a word regarding what you found aside from "damage"

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From what I can see from your photographs, both the head and block are in a condition that I would expect after 90K miles. It needs a good clean up, the valves removing and lapping in. Depending on the flatness of the head it may need a skim. Whilst the engine is dismantled to this level I would fit a new timing chain and tensioner.

Obviously I cannot comment on the cylinder bore condition from the photos

Even with a "reconditioned" engine could you end up with an engine in a worse condition than the one you have.

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Its a shame a compresion test was not done before removal, that would have removed any speculation.

 

The advice re "the valves removing and lapping in." is good and certainly prudent in the absence of compression test readings, in the past before deteregent fuels it would have to be done even if there was no leakage to remove clag which excessive EGR aside is not an issue these days, my MK1 Octavia did 325000 miles without the head ever coming off, no decarbonising and/or valve lapping and it was still running like a sewing machine, no oil consumption, perfect compressions better than when new and no loss of fuel economy, had I needed to replace the head gasket on that the valves would have been left well alone if I could not see carbon build up through the port.

 

The OP needs to explain what "damage" he believes to have found.

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This is a 1.8tsi with the gen 2 ea888. 90k is good going compared to quite a few…

 

I’d be willing to bet the bores are all messed up and the scraper rings are clogged. Although, I have to admit, looking at the head and valves; there doesn’t seem to be a huge amount of carbon build up or oil contamination visible. The intake ports will look worse of course..

 

looking again, that rusty ring in cylinder 3 could be a cracked block…..

 

@Trapolinagsdo you want to enlighten us.?

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry for the late update, The damage is, but not limited to, The head from what I've been told is dead because of overheating, apparently the last week before I took it to the local garage the engine was running on almost no coolant because the water pump failed, also 2 valves shifted positions slightly.

 

The water system is INFESTED with rust and it can't be fixed, the first owner of the car apparently used tap water as coolant since day 1 of buying it.

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24 minutes ago, Trapolinags said:

Sorry for the late update, The damage is, but not limited to, The head from what I've been told is dead because of overheating, apparently the last week before I took it to the local garage the engine was running on almost no coolant because the water pump failed, also 2 valves shifted positions slightly.

 

The water system is INFESTED with rust and it can't be fixed, the first owner of the car apparently used tap water as coolant since day 1 of buying it.

 

22 minutes ago, Trapolinags said:

And yes, it is a cracked block.

 

Sounds like it has had a hard life. I guess something happened that caused it to loose the coolant at some stage and never bothered with sorting out coolant mix. 

 

I've not seen many or even any on the forums I frequent with cracked blocks. Usually the timing chain tensioner or oil consumption from scraper rings kill them first. 

 

Have you found a donor engine? Bit of a disappointment and shock for you. Sorry about the unwelcome news! 

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1 minute ago, TheClient said:

 

 

Sounds like it has had a hard life. I guess something happened that caused it to loose the coolant at some stage and never bothered with sorting out coolant mix. 

 

I've not seen many or even any on the forums I frequent with cracked blocks. Usually the timing chain tensioner or oil consumption from scraper rings kill them first. 

 

Have you found a donor engine? Bit of a disappointment and shock for you. Sorry about the unwelcome news! 

I am having a hard time finding a donor engine, My engine code is CDAA and I can't seem to find one, Although I found plenty of Audi engines but with different codes like CDHA CDHB but they will be a pain to fit cause some little stuff is different.

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1 hour ago, Trapolinags said:

I am having a hard time finding a donor engine, My engine code is CDAA and I can't seem to find one, Although I found plenty of Audi engines but with different codes like CDHA CDHB but they will be a pain to fit cause some little stuff is different.

Yes. I imagine it will be tricky because there have been a lot of failures and secondly age. Be very careful buying the donor engine. It could also have terminal problems lurking.

 

A warranty would help, but it would still be a lot of work for the engine fit and removal. It would scare the life out of me buying one of those that hasn't been rebuilt.

 

If there is a way of confirming the donor engine has the updated tensioner, camchain and piston and conrod assemblies that would be a start.. but on a donor second hand engine, that you already cant find,  I fear it mat be a needle in a haystack mission !! 

 

I'm not being much help... sorry. 

 

For interest, What country are you in? 

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I inadvertently ran mine on tap water for 18 months including two winters with the car outside in sub zero temperatures, lucky or what!!!

 

I drained the system to remove the front end and replace the aircon condensor when doing the crash repairs, I would have refilled it temporarily with tap water until I bought the correct coolant and then forgot all about it.

 

What really did surprise me was when I drained the tap water it still looked clean and clear enough to drink! No sign of corrosion yet I'm pretty sure my vehicle does not have Silkat, definitely no bag, it looks like a twin wall expansion tank but has no Silkat markings.

 

That reminds me I filled it last year with the older G12 coolant and have since bought the correct later G13 (or have I got that backwards?) I must drain and refill it definitively very soon before I forget once again.

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