EPC Warning Light On

[Gonzini]

Hi all.
On the run up to the midlands today about 160miles into the journey, noticed the EPC warning light on.
I was on the motorway just cruising along in 6th gear. 
Didn't notice any change in engine performance or anything bad happening so kept going.
When i got to folks place kept the engine running and had a look in the car menu. There were no alerts but there's a message about start stop error.
I always (if i remember..) disable the start stop as it drives mad so i never use it anyway.
When i enabled the start stop feature the start stop error flashed up on the cluster info LCD.
No means to read any faults codes either.
Parked up now, hopefully it will start OK when i need to move it.
I did search previous posts and only one mention of what sounds like the same issue. The fault code they pulled said about an air intake temperature sensor.
But then it seemed the problem went away and nothing more said, so no leads there.
User manual isn't much help, just says emergency driving is possible with caution and seek professional help.
Any ideas?

Edited 21 December, 2023 by Gonzini

[nta16]

Personally if I didn't have access to a scan tool that is appropriate to a VW brand vehicle I would take the very easy and clean hands approach of using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and fully charging the battery.  Others may have other ideas and you can choose to follow whatever advice you please.

 

Going up the motorway should sort things with battery anyway but if your outgoings are a lot not more than your income then they may not make up for past over use or if for some reason the alternator or whatever else is faulty.

 

A battery that is too low can throw up all sorts of unexpected warnings and issues.

 

Whatever is the cause of the issue, especially electrical, and the computers and their programs run on electric (5v) having and knowing the battery is fully charged is a good stating point.

 

Alternatively you could see if there's anyone near to you on the VCDS list able to help you. -Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

 

Or check to see if there are any Recalls or updates for your car. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

[Gonzini]

Thanks for the reply.
I guess its a fairly generic error having looked a bit more into it. Only way is to scan for fault codes.
I'm in Sleaford, i see there's a maybe a VCDS user in Cranwell which is just up the road.
I did think battery as aware it can cause problems. The whole journey is pretty much motorway then up the A1 for a bit.
It normally sorts the car out giving it a good run up here and back.
Going to swop cars around tomorrow and stick it in the garage for the week, I'll measure the battery terminal voltage tomorrow i think and see where its at.
It obviously the wrong time of year for getting in at a dealers, I'm not even sure where the nearest Skoda place is, maybe Lincoln which is around 20 miles away.
Luckily i extended the Skoda recovery a few days ago if things go really south...

[nta16]

Could be so many things a scan tool is handy to help with diagnosis but you still need to diagnose the information the scan tool gives as it can't always point you at the exact cause but more in the right direction or to test items to rule them in or out, for example a sensor could be a massager rather than the culprit.

 

You can only ask if the Cranwell person is able to help you worst that can happen us they're unable to you've lost nothing by asking.

 

If the car is in the garage for a week then a perfect time to put it on a long slow charge with an appropriate charger maintainer, don't go for a quicker and higher charger if you have the choice,   Follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual (and charger's manual) for correct charging.  You can then check the battery at the battery posts the day after the charging has fully finish to get a better idea of the battery's state of charge, then check again a couple or more days after that to see if there's a significant drop.  The reading obviously want to be done the same for consistent results and depending on when you take them any part volts the car's computers and other items might still be using at rest.

 

As a belt and braces if you want after full charging you could start the car put the headlights and aircon on then turn the steering wheels full lock both ways and this should let the computer know the battery is now able to cope, or go out for a short drive.

 

You've really need to flog a battery close to death before the car wont start which is part of the problem of owners really running the car batteries down too far too often.

 

If you are really (really) lucky perhaps even the EPC warning might not return but you'll have to see on that.

 

At four years old there are additional bits of servicing above just an engine oil & filter and a "free health check" that even Dealerships do on the car, if they haven't been done that might (or might not) help to contribute to warnings and/or a lack of use of the car.

 

Good luck let us know how you are getting along with it or the ends results.

 

[Gonzini]

Hi
Yeah for sure. All the previous VAG cars I've owned I've always been able to check for fault codes. I brought this one new back in 2019 so i never updated the OBD interface or software. The one i have might actually work with it, not needed to use it in years.
I don't even know where the OBD socket is on this one!
I'm going to check the battery voltage in a bit then attempt to start it and check to see if the alternator looks like its charging.
Cheers
 

[Gonzini]

Well it started OK and EPC isn't lit at present.
Bit limited on meters here being at the folks so only option is a small cheapo Altai analogue mult tester.
I can't be sure on its accuracy and have no way of comparing it to a 100% known voltage. 
Anyway it measured 12V which is low in my mind but i can't 100% trust the meter so it could be reading slightly low. A fully charged battery should be in the region of around 12.8V open terminal.
On starting and getting the rev's up a bit it got up to just under 13V so alternator is doing 'something'
I don't know what's normal on these but used to seeing 13.8V under charge on all the other cars I've owned.
I'll give the battery a charge later and keep an eye on it, but I'm starting think its just got run down over the past month or so with early morning cold starts with the heater fan going full chat until windscreen cleared and aircon on. Also lights on that time of morning, same on the way home as well.
I'm only doing like a 20 / 30 min drive there and back at low revs really, its an 18 mile journey week days. Its not going to be enough to get it back up again.
Thinking back i did turn on the lights at one point on the A1 so maybe that was enough to trigger it down the road, it was only doing like 2000rpm in 6th gear so probably not enough of a charge going on even after 160 odd miles at that point.

[nta16]

A reasonable quality old analogue meter could be better than a new cheaper digital but it does depend on a number of variable.  To get an idea of how accurate it is you could if you have them available test against a new battery or batteries 9v, 6v, 3v, 1.5v, two three or four 1.5v pushed together in series and look up what the actual readings should be then do repeats of the tests to see if the needle varies its position.

 

VW would have 12v at 30% of charge so yes very low but as you say you don't know the reliability of the test equipment.

 

Even if the battery was showing a 12.3 or 12.4v on a reliable meter personally I'd still fully charge the battery, also some chargers give a voltage reading so you can compare that against a reading you take at the same time with the analogue multimeter and you can see how the two compare.

 

Find having fully charged the battery then you want to know the battery holds that charge reasonably, so reading a few days later, if you wanted you could put load on to the battery too to se how much it drops and recovers.

 

Alternator charging can vary with the computer program doing its stuff, but as you say the alter alternator is at least doing something, easier to test the battery with a battery tester.

 

What many forget is the battery also doesn't like hot weather so weaknesses can be from then accumulate and then show up more come the cold weather and additional heavier use of the battery.  With a more modern VW start/stop car, even a 2016 and especially a 2019 (and newer) I'd charge it just after the very hot weather of summer ready for autumn and going into winter and again during the Xmas/New Year break.  Some suggest charging at change over to and from winter tyres but that might not be enough, prevention is better than cure.

 

Your past month's and A1 use shouldn't have bothered the battery unless it was already low or gone too low too often previously but some would say 4 years out of the battery is good (not me).

 

For the vast condensation on the windscreen we use two Pingi bag dehumidifiers, a moist synthetic chamois, sun visors turned to reflect air back to windscreen rather than letting it go to the roof - and waiting - but I think I've discovered the worst thing to do is put the blower on to the windscreen as this seems to dump the damp air from the heater box and venting straight on to the screen in a self-defeating act of the demisting.  But I don't drive my wife's car often enough to confirm this or find out how long to wait before putting the demisting on to the windscreen.  If I'm not with my wife I lower both front windows as until last year my "daily" car was from 1973 so I'm used to scrapping all windows before starting the car, chamois the inside of windows, lowering the front (and only) windows, not bothering with the heater until it warms up a bit, pulling the choke, start the car, adjust the choke and drive off.  Chamois windscreen as required.  So the plastics and all the glass causing misting of the Fabia cabin pees me off (I still clear all the windows before I get in the car). 

 

😄 Back to your car, if the EPC light stays off with more power in the battery then you might be lucky and that was part of illuminating, happy days.  You will find out if it comes on again before the battery gets low again.  Personally I like to have all error codes cleared only as like with a full battery you know your starting point is good but as I've lost access to my neighbour's scan tool and I can't I don't worry about it.

 

Again let us know your readings after fully recharged and a next day and a number of days after that.  If you use the same multimeter hopefully it'll be consistent with it's inaccuracy so give relative consistent comparative readings.  A mate wanted to check his new bit less cheap digital multimeter against his other two cheap digital ones and the reasonably priced one he bought me as a present, all four gave different readings with his latest purchase being the furthest away from the reading my one gave.

 

Good luck, imagine if all car repairs and maintenance was as clean hands and as easy as plugging a charger maintainer and walking away. 🙂   

[Gonzini]

I'm going to see if my charger still works in the morning, not used it in ages. I did fix it up some time back. Its an 'intelligent' job. 
I did check the meter out earlier against some 12V regulated wall warts. It just reads a tad low on the scale I'd have to use for 12V.
Also remembered i had a battery / alternator tester which luckily was in the boot. The folks had one as well which seems more accurate than the one i have.
It just a very sensitive restricted ranged voltmeter that covers from 5v to 15v with an LED at the main voltages of interest. So 12V 12.5V 13.0V 13.5V 14V. 
I find the Fabia does mist up very easily, it drive's me mad trying to clear it. Even when engaging the cabin recycling over night.
I use a window vac which makes quick work of clearing the glass, but then have to blast it with hot air when i get moving then reduce fan speed heat as it clears when driving.
I try to leave the windows cracked open if it a dry sunny day to try and clear the damper air.
I used to have a VW Bora that was bad for misting up as well.
Annoying design thing with the mk3 Fabia is rain running off the roof straight into the cabin when you open a door.

[nta16]

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

Its an 'intelligent' job. 

'Intelligent'. 😄 You have to use what you have there but personally as I put I like to use as low amps as I can for as long as I can.

 

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

12V regulated wall warts.

?  🙃

 

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

Even when engaging the cabin recycling over night.

That's not a "feature" I know about but it sounds like the type of thing to help run the car battery down, like 'come home(?) lights.  Do you also has KESSY keys?

 

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

a window vac

My wife bought one of those for home windows after seeing a friend use one on their very condensated windows, I knew she would, but our windows are very minimal bedroom only really so a couple of uses and it takes up valuable shed space in its box now, for years.

 

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

I try to leave the windows cracked open if it a dry sunny day to try and clear the damper air.

Are you sure you don't have a leak somewhere , or carrying damp clothes or dog blankets in the car - but the model does seem to mist up for itself anyway.

 

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

Annoying design thing with the mk3 Fabia is rain running off the roof straight into the cabin when you open a door.

We've never noticed that, used to notice that with soft tops, not with the old British soft tops mind as they didn't have seals that went on the roof and own other side, British forethought ! 😄.  Later modern (at the time) cars had the electric windows drop before / as the door was opened.

 

Edited 22 December, 2023 by nta16

[Gonzini]

Its microprocessor controlled, it will do a maintenance charge once its completed main charge. Its not a fast charger dumping lots of amps into it.

12V SMPS, they're regulated so 12V means 12V not 15V off load etc

Just the cabin recycling setting were it shuts off the external air intake and just recycles the cabin air. Its just a motor driven diverter flap.

Don't think there's a leak, coolant level has remained unchanged in 4 years.
Door seals seem OK.
Its just were it builds up over time and i did take a number of plastic bags full of wet leaves up the dump a few weeks back...

With mine water will run off the roof straight into the car when i open the door.

[nta16]

33 minutes ago, Gonzini said:

Just the cabin recycling setting were it shuts off the external air intake and just recycles the cabin air. Its just a motor driven diverter flap.

Oh 😄 I thought it might be some fancy heater ventilation system.  I wonder if causes less, more or no difference (not that don't know).  Not being able to use it on some setting and the air-con coming on if the blower is on every time I switch to screen annoys me.  Like I put I'm going to try not setting to screen straight off on misting (inside) mornings and I was going to try something else someone suggested but I forgot what as I don't get many cold / wet morning starts as it's my wife's car.

 

She travels 2 miles to work and 2 miles back most working days now as she doesn't have to go to other work locations occasionally as much as she used to and she might go on other short journeys too.  There are some longer runs sometimes for shopping (food or charity shops mainly) and they can be 10, 20 or 30 miles but as we no longer go to N. Yorks, or other places, there are few longer runs.  As I've not put a coin slot meter on the car I notice lot more electrics are used when I'm not in the car.  🙂

 

 

48 minutes ago, Gonzini said:

With mine water will run off the roof straight into the car when i open the door.

I've not notice this with my wife's car, perhaps it happens but I've not noticed.  Window open and you can get a face wash from the wipers or water blowing off the screen IIRC.

 

On another thread someone has expressed surprise that the start/stop function has retuned by charging the battery rather than replacing it with new, and there have been other threads with unexpected warnings and issues that have gone away after charging the battery despite the posters taking some convincing because the battery seemed OK and the car starts fine, lets hope it's the same for you with the EPC light.

 

[Gonzini]

Given it a charge today, its come up to full and left it on a maintenance cycle. It didn't take very long as it goes.
I'll let it recover and measure the terminal voltage again and see where's it at.
Probably get the charger back on there end of next week before traveling back.
I managed to bend the bonnet arm whilst closing the garage door, it just clipped the front edge of open bonnet..,.
Then while trying to keep the bonnet up with my head and attempting to straighten the arm out i put my back out ffs.
Its all very silly but guess it is xmas and I'm not even ****ed yet...
I got the arm out in the end and straighten it in the old workmate.. can't say the same for the back....

Yeah, that auto switching of the aircon is a battle. It thinks it knows best.

[nta16]

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

It didn't take very long as it goes.

That could be a good or not so good sign, depends on the battery and perhaps the charger/ maintainer you used - time will tell, hopefully you might have one less light drain. 

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

I'll let it recover and measure the terminal voltage again and see where's it at.

👍

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

Probably get the charger back on there end of next week before traveling back.

Can't hurt, if doesn't need much or any it won't take long or be very quick, the battery is designed to be charged.

 

 

Not sure if to laugh or cry for you, bad back is no laughing matter, I know from the stupid VW wheel bolts instead of studs giving me a type of Sciatica problem from about 5 years ago and off 'n' on up to even today - %$£*&^% "German engineering quality".

 

1 hour ago, Gonzini said:

Yeah, that auto switching of the aircon is a battle. It thinks it knows best.

I fight the VW computer programs on my wife's 2015 and on driving my neighbour's 2023 Nissan-Renault I had to find out how to cancel all the automatic driving "niceties", the automatic electronic handbrake is a pain and the computer's start/stop and thinking about acceleration from stop or not can have the car hesitating, or stopping on trying to get out quick on roundabouts, not just for me but my neighbour too - and he suggested using the automatic cruise control too!  I don't think it's a good idea to be a passenger behind the steering wheel.

   

[arthurmo]

Hello, came across this thread when searching epc light.

I'm thinking battery too at this initial moment. So first stop, Halfords who do a free battery and alternator check.

[nta16]

19 hours ago, arthurmo said:

So first stop, Halfords who do a free battery and alternator check.

As car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts I'd guess they'd suggest a new battery rather than buying and using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (which they also sell a range of) and possibly getting more years of good battery life and performance.

 

Also Halfords seem to have their own battery numbering so fitting isn't always perfect, wrong holding down foot on a Halfords own label battery for a neighbour of mine and it was a lower capacity but higher price than serval better alternatives he could have easily got (took me 15 minutes to alter his cars holding bracket as he wouldn't let me cut the excess footing off the two tier footing on the Halfords battery).

 

Also bear in mind a new battery is best 'coded' to the car's computer system despite what some Halfords seem to say.

 

Good luck.

 

 

Edited 3 January by nta16

[arthurmo]

Hello, I only use Halfords for this Freebie and would never buy a battery from them. Results came back good battery and charging. 

Saving up to get it VCDS checked as the list of epc light possibilities is endless.

I have a feeling it's in the tow bar wiring.

Thank you

 

[nta16]

1 hour ago, arthurmo said:

Saving up to get it VCDS checked as the list of epc light possibilities is endless.

I have a feeling it's in the tow bar wiring.

Why not see if there's someone near you able to help you out with a report at least and perhaps deleting error code(s) and see what comes back or even perhaps further diagnosis - perhaps for just beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

 

Tow bar wiring might be a fun area.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

[arthurmo]

Hi, yes, I've looked at the map and most have stopped. I found only one but sadly they don't have the VCDS for my vehicle.

I called Skoda and they charge £150 for a plug in 🤪

I'll certainly pass on any progress

Many thanks

[nta16]

8 minutes ago, arthurmo said:

Hi, yes, I've looked at the map and most have stopped. I found only one but sadly they don't have the VCDS for my vehicle.

I called Skoda and they charge £150 for a plug in 🤪

I'll certainly pass on any progress

Many thanks

Obviously the scanner has to be relevant to your vehicle for deeper stuff but it can be a general other make other than VCDS (and the others I forget) and the better the scanner and VW specific the more it can see and do but a good and reliable cheaper model may get the light off, delete error codes, find generic things.  You don't want anything unreliable of course otherwise it could lead you up the wrong path.

 

£150 for a plug-in, do you get that or some of it taken off the bill if you have work done?

 

You could perhaps look for a good independent (VW perhaps) garage or a good reliable auto-electrician.

 

Are you up to date with any servicing, Recalls, updates, getting in a few good blow out runs if you have a GPF.

 

You want to get it sorted but if the car, battery and alternator are going fine otherwise perhaps it's not urgent but Sod's Law if you forget about it it'll give you an unexpected reminder.

 

Good luck.

 

[arthurmo]

Yes, looking into local Indy VAG service, or even buying a Carista dongle.

I sold my Yeti due to constant DPF active regens despite regular thrashing for 20 mins. Bought the petrol Kodiaq but flabbergasted that modern petrols have a GPF 😭

From what I've read here they're not as problematic as the DPF 🤞

[nta16]

Just now, arthurmo said:

From what I've read here they're not as problematic as the DPF 🤞

Early days - no I'm joking.  😁

 

All being well with a 2019 car you might avoid the potential additional delights of later cars.  Now I only drive occasionally a 2005, 2016 or 2023 and I can tell you I prefer the 2005.

 

When you get sorted come back and let us know what caused the light and what sorted it, other the replacing the car of course.  😁

 

[hogun pen llyn]

Similar experience on our 2015 Fabia. Without warning the EPC light illuminated but with no obvious lack of power etc. Once home I fully charged the battery which had shown no earlier signs of running low or being difficult to start. After only around 2 hours of charge, the battery meter showed Full and the EPC light had gone. Must admit I do a lot of short journeys so that may have caused a drain on the battery which is the factory fit and now over 9 years old !!

[nta16]

13 hours ago, hogun pen llyn said:

Once home I fully charged the battery which had shown no earlier signs of running low or being difficult to start.

It's a very common mistake that because there are no very obvious signs otherwise that a battery must be in a reasonable state of charge and certainly not a low state of charge.

 

 

13 hours ago, hogun pen llyn said:

After only around 2 hours of charge, the battery meter showed Full and the EPC light had gone.

2 hours is a very short time for a recharge on a battery that threw up warning lights or messages.  It could be that you used a higher amperage charger and/or the charge doesn't hold as long and will be required again sooner.  VW recommend 0.1 of the battery Ah for the charger when charging the battery on the car so say 60 Ah battery has a 6-amp charger at most.  I personally, with back up from battery manufacturers, would use lower that takes longer.  I use a 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer on my wife's 2015 Fabia with a 60 ah (AGM) battery fitted to carry out preventative charges.  I would more happily use a 3 or 2 amp "smart" charger maintainer even if it meant taking more than one charging session to get the battery to fully charged.  Read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for the charger.

 

 

14 hours ago, hogun pen llyn said:

Must admit I do a lot of short journeys so that may have caused a drain on the battery which is the factory fit and now over 9 years old !!

Well done on having the battery last 9 years, so far, you might/could get more good useful out of the battery with checking the state of charge and when required fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer (lower and slower rather than higher and faster) when required or better still in a preventative fashion.

 

[hogun pen llyn]

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

It's a very common mistake that because there are no very obvious signs otherwise that a battery must be in a reasonable state of charge and certainly not a low state of charge.

 

 

2 hours is a very short time for a recharge on a battery that threw up warning lights or messages.  It could be that you used a higher amperage charger and/or the charge doesn't hold as long and will be required again sooner.  VW recommend 0.1 of the battery Ah for the charger when charging the battery on the car so say 60 Ah battery has a 6-amp charger at most.  I personally, with back up from battery manufacturers, would use lower that takes longer.  I use a 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer on my wife's 2015 Fabia with a 60 ah (AGM) battery fitted to carry out preventative charges.  I would more happily use a 3 or 2 amp "smart" charger maintainer even if it meant taking more than one charging session to get the battery to fully charged.  Read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for the charger.

 

 

Well done on having the battery last 9 years, so far, you might/could get more good useful out of the battery with checking the state of charge and when required fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer (lower and slower rather than higher and faster) when required or better still in a preventative fashion.

 

With thanks to all who have replied. Personally I think the battery itself was in a reasonable state of charge prior to me recharging. Not sure why or how but after this relatively short timed cycle to fully recharge the car battery, the EPC light went out and a few days later has still not returned ('Touch Wood' !!!!!)

 

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

It's a very common mistake that because there are no very obvious signs otherwise that a battery must be in a reasonable state of charge and certainly not a low state of charge.

 

 

2 hours is a very short time for a recharge on a battery that threw up warning lights or messages.  It could be that you used a higher amperage charger and/or the charge doesn't hold as long and will be required again sooner.  VW recommend 0.1 of the battery Ah for the charger when charging the battery on the car so say 60 Ah battery has a 6-amp charger at most.  I personally, with back up from battery manufacturers, would use lower that takes longer.  I use a 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer on my wife's 2015 Fabia with a 60 ah (AGM) battery fitted to carry out preventative charges.  I would more happily use a 3 or 2 amp "smart" charger maintainer even if it meant taking more than one charging session to get the battery to fully charged.  Read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for the charger.

 

 

Well done on having the battery last 9 years, so far, you might/could get more good useful out of the battery with checking the state of charge and when required fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer (lower and slower rather than higher and faster) when required or better still in a preventative fashion.