Thanks Linni

 

I had actually seen that one when I started the battery change job but as I don't  actually have VCDS I didn't take much notice of it.  However it is clear from the video that all these parameters are important so thanks for drawing it to my attention.

 

As an update I did not get much help from the dealer yesterday as disappointingly the just did the oil change service and MOT and did not spend much time on the electrical issue claiming that the car behaved itself with no faults found.  That is until the driver brought it back to me and it started beeping again as we stood beside it in the driveway!

 

I may take it to a guy here in Edinburgh who does ECU updates from Quantum Tuning - but that's another story

Will check tomorrow, if it is possible to access the battery section with OBD11. This one is cheaper to buy than VCDS. Based on experience you need one of these, if driving VAG produced car. I have both though.

 

@andrewclark55

You want to go where they have All the gear and more than ideas.  Proper Master Techs.

http://autohausedinburgh.co.uk

 

One more video from Ross Tech (VCDS developer):

 

21 minutes ago, linni said:

Will check tomorrow, if it is possible to access the battery section with OBD11. This one is cheaper to buy than VCDS. Based on experience you need one of these, if driving VAG produced car. I have both though.

 

Hi Linni

 

I already have an AutoPhix 7610 (same as Ancel VDV700) that can read and clear codes and do VAG battery Registration.

 

But apart from the U140600 code (now erased) nothing else is showing up.

@Linni

 

I took the car today to my guy at Auto Installs who uses VCDS.

 

THe tool showed the battery Registration as blank!  This implies my device has not written the data properly, but more worryingly it did not allow him to enter it either.

 

Back to the dealer in the morning... 😞

8 hours ago, Rooted said:

@andrewclark55

You want to go where they have All the gear and more than ideas.  Proper Master Techs.

http://autohausedinburgh.co.uk

 

Hi Rooted

 

Rang them this afternoon after seeing your post but they can't even look at it til 17th  so I took it to my man at Auto Installs.  See my response to Linni for the outcome!

 

This thing is growing arms and legs...

16 hours ago, andrewclark55 said:

@Linni

 

I took the car today to my guy at Auto Installs who uses VCDS.

 

THe tool showed the battery Registration as blank!  This implies my device has not written the data properly, but more worryingly it did not allow him to enter it either.

 

Back to the dealer in the morning... 😞

 

That`s why I do not trust any third party diagnostic tools except VCDS. Even OBD11 can brick your ECU if the moon phase is wrong.

Hi Guys.. Talk about the long arm of coincidence...  You won't believe this...  I put it into my dealer on Monday as a result of hearing 3 beeps every minute.  No Fault Found.  I took it back today for full diagnostics (£138/hr!) and got my Son to bring me home.  As we got out of his car in the driveway he said "Dad there's a beeping noise from the garage"... It was coming from the Smart Meter!!!  Being high pitched it was bouncing off the car and  appeared to be from the engine.  I have just retrieved the car from the dealer with some degree of embarrassment but at least no cost  .  And called my energy supplier to fix the meter 😞 

 

Incidentally my guy at Auto Installs upgraded my ECU firmware in November with software from Quantum Tuning.  At £349 it is the best money I have ever spent on a car.  Power from 177 BHP to 260 BHP, Torque from 320 Nm to 400 Nm.  It is like a different car now to drive.  I am really pleased with the Quantum package.

2 hours ago, andrewclark55 said:

Incidentally my guy at Auto Installs upgraded my ECU firmware in November with software from Quantum Tuning.  At £349 it is the best money I have ever spent on a car.  Power from 177 BHP to 260 BHP, Torque from 320 Nm to 400 Nm.  It is like a different car now to drive.  I am really pleased with the Quantum package.

 

I know what you feel  

3 hours ago, linni said:

 

I know what you feel  

That's not a standard VRS is it?

5 minutes ago, andrewclark55 said:

That's not a standard VRS is it?

 

No, remapped to 292 BHP and 600 Nm.

@linni

Wow!  I didn't know you could get that much out of them without making physical changes to the engine.  I was impressed with my 47% increase in power but even more with the torque changes as it makes for a much better drive with gear changes at a much more sensible level.  600 Nm is a heck of a lot of torque.  What does the engine sound like and did you have to upgrade the suspension at all?

10 hours ago, andrewclark55 said:

@linni

Wow!  I didn't know you could get that much out of them without making physical changes to the engine.  I was impressed with my 47% increase in power but even more with the torque changes as it makes for a much better drive with gear changes at a much more sensible level.  600 Nm is a heck of a lot of torque.  What does the engine sound like and did you have to upgrade the suspension at all?

 

Just reminder, my RS is diesel from the first years of RS, it had 240 BHP and 500 Nm out of factory.

 

RS has steering with variable gear ratio and adjustable schocks, so runs great without any mods.

On 07/01/2024 at 11:51, Warrior193 said:

The only way I have seen is to systematically pull the fuse on the various modules - first making sure that the vehicle has entered 'sleep mode' to eliminate false readings from control modules that are still active.

Opening a door to access interior fuse panel will, of course, wake them up again - so it may be a prolonged process. Good luck.

Please dont go pulling fuses! Doing this on a car nowadays will never find a drain, as you pull/refit fuses you put modules to sleep/wake other modules up and youll never find the drain as modules will be doing a lot of things.

This used to work on older cars but you wouldnt stand a chance on newer cars.

 

The only way that is can correctly be done now is an inductive current clamp. Put the car to sleep by rolling door latches with the doors open and lock the car, give yourself access to the fuse box. You need to current clamp each fuses wire to see which is pulling a current and then you can trace that wire to the component/module to investigate further. 

 

You can narrow it down further by clamping entire fuse boxes first or just a bank of fuses to cut the hunting down but thats a bit more advanced  

 

 

 

Regarding the battery coding - no matter what you do here, this wont and cant cause a current drain, the battery adaptation is for start/stop, micro hybrid and charging. 

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by ApertureS

@ApertureS

Hi and thanks for confirming what I suspected regarding fuses!

As it happens I resolved the beeping "issue" (see my post of 10 January... embarrassing!