Rear brakes / handbrake issues after MOT work

[cbdc]

Hi. (I actually am an old, if occasional member of this most helpful place, but can't remember which email I registered with, maybe deleted, so have started again!)

Wondering if anyone has any advice, suggestions, etc. Have already read related threads on here from earlier years & watched a couple of YT bids to understand the mechanism concerned.

 

Anyhows, had my 04 1.9tdi estate for 16 years, through many pads and discs, few calipers, few handbrake cable adjustments - but never had problems.

In mid November, the MOT garage, a new one to me, said that they'd "freed off" the rear brakes & changed the pads. I wasn't aware of the binding, but fair enough.

 

3 weeks later, just after the really cold weather and snow, the handbrake travel was suddenly massive (after it had been on the parked on the flat for a week), and the brakes wouldn't hold the car on a gentle slope.

 

Took it back to the garage, who tinkered and made it OK again.

 

All been good until couple of days ago (again very cold, pre snow - not sure if that's coincidence or not) when the handbrake suddenly stopped holding the car on the drive.

Then, only then, did the lever travel get longer. Today, but not yesterday, after about 5 miles, there was a nasty hot brake smell from offside rear, so I guess they're for some reason now also binding on.

 

Car doesn't do massive mileage, but I am planning a long motorway trip pretty soon, so worried...

 

Got it booked back again to the garage next week, but really starting to wonder if he knows what he's doing, or if I should cut my losses and pay another garage to sort it out (if, indeed, they know what's wrong).

 

Will in the meantime have a crawl underneath and see if anything (like the lever position) is obvious.

 

Cheers 

[Tailhappy]

I had exactly this issue. The 'freeing off' basically is just them working the handbrake lever mechanism on the caliper. This jams up over time.

 

I had my brakes jam on with lots of smoke so it's important to get it sorted. 

 

I had 2 refurbished calipers fitted by the garage but these were no good after just a year.

 

What happens is the steel rod that connects into the rear caliper to operate the pads gets rust, gunk and scale in between it and the bore it travels in. I have had much better success rebuilding the old calipers myself and fitting new seals and most importantly removing and cleaning out the handbrake mechanism. The handbrake when working well is very effective, but it's a fragile design and so it needs regular inspection. Once the mechanism starts sticking, it's needing service. 

[Paws4Thot]

14 hours ago, cbdc said:

the MOT garage, a new one to me, said that they'd "freed off" the rear brakes & changed the pads.

Discs or drums? It's dependant on year and trim level.

[cbdc]

Disc

 

[cbdc]

8 hours ago, Tailhappy said:

I had exactly this issue. The 'freeing off' basically is just them working the handbrake lever mechanism on the caliper. 

 

What happens is the steel rod that connects into the rear caliper to operate the pads gets rust, gunk and scale in between it and the bore it travels in. I have had much better success rebuilding the old calipers myself and fitting new seals and most importantly removing and cleaning out the handbrake mechanism. 

 

What do you mean by "cleaning out the handbrake mechanism" please?

Can you clean out the "bore"?

And do the calipers need cleaning or rebuilding or new seals? (Used to that on motorbikes!)

 

Might a new cable, or lever, help?

 

Not really in a position to do any work on the car myself, so have got yo get the garage to sort whatever's needed: though supposedly it's already been done twice...

 

Did read and see a vid about the lever. So will check that tomorrow if ice allows!

 

I'll check with the garage what he's actually freed off; it started with strip and clean out the brakes and replace the pads - apparently they were binding a bit but wasn't noticeable to drive, not smelly. Now is, of course!

 

It's only started being a problem when he's replaced the pads and done his 'clean' though; that's what worries me.

[Tailhappy]

51 minutes ago, cbdc said:

 

What do you mean by "cleaning out the handbrake mechanism" please?

Can you clean out the "bore"?

And do the calipers need cleaning or rebuilding or new seals? (Used to that on motorbikes!)

 

Might a new cable, or lever, help?

 

Not really in a position to do any work on the car myself, so have got yo get the garage to sort whatever's needed: though supposedly it's already been done twice...

 

Did read and see a vid about the lever. So will check that tomorrow if ice allows!

 

I'll check with the garage what he's actually freed off; it started with strip and clean out the brakes and replace the pads - apparently they were binding a bit but wasn't noticeable to drive, not smelly. Now is, of course!

 

It's only started being a problem when he's replaced the pads and done his 'clean' though; that's what worries me.

Really you need to completely disassemble the caliper so that all parts can ne assessed, cleaned, replaced if needs be and put back.

 

The handbrake mechanism is part of the caliper. It's like a cam that pushes the pads out a little and utilises the automatic wear adjustment. So as the pads wear the handbrake stays in adjustment. You will need a rebuild kit from Big Red or similar and important, a pair of very long nose circlip pliers for master cylinders and the like. To release the circlip holding the handbrake lever mechanism in the bore (it pulls out through the cylinder after removing the cable holder lever at the rear). I thought I needed new cables but once I serviced the calipers they were working like new.

 

the problem with insufficient action or binding is most times down to the handbrake mechanism sticking as i said. Honestly its not a good design as all that stops water and dirt getting in is one rubber seal at the back.

 

I have seen the video on cleaning. It will get you by, but its not really enough. I'm betting that by now it needs new seals around the piston at the least. 

 

If you take it in to have work done it's difficult to guarantee they do the work perfectly. Even my known good garage told me they 'lubricated the mechanism' after mine started losing handbrake power. I'm suspecting the just sprayed around the pivot. It didn't last. I'd suggest asking fora full caliper rebuild and being Frank with them too. 

 

 

[cbdc]

Thanks Tailhappy. 

As I said, outside of my abilities and premises, so I'll have to see about garage, or else find another; probably then costly.

 

If I could do it myself, don't I need some special piston-winding-in tool (or something like that)?

[sepulchrave]

Yes you need a special tool, no, the garage won't rebuild the calipers, they'll only replace them with new ones.

[maccy]

My 2005 Tdi estate did exactly the same thing a couple of years ago and it failed the MOT.I simply replaced both rear calipers after previously freeing them off on a regular basis,they are cheap enough and my local autoshop does a part exchange scheme,job done

[cbdc]

Maccy - yes, I'm wondering if best option; more expense I could do without...

Does that replace the gunked-up rod/lever and "brake mechanism" (as referred to above) as well or does that still need replacing or cleaning and lubricating separately?

[Tailhappy]

5 hours ago, cbdc said:

Maccy - yes, I'm wondering if best option; more expense I could do without...

Does that replace the gunked-up rod/lever and "brake mechanism" (as referred to above) as well or does that still need replacing or cleaning and lubricating separately?

 

Yes it will be all new with new calipers. If you can get genuine VW ones all the better. Ask to keep the old ones as you can refurbish for spared yourself if needed.

[Ryan90VRS]

I’ve just had this done our 2005 estate. Replaced the rear caliper and handbrake cable and all is good.

[totoro]

I had problems with a rear brake dragging,

I fitted these from eBay which fixed the problem. Easy to fit. 

 

Caliper Return Springs  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333521299428

[cbdc]

Thanks for the latest posts.

 

Occurs to me, if I can recruit my more mechanically-minded friend and find a flat (and warm and dry) place to do it, do you have to re-bleed the brakes after stripping and/or replacing the caliper; and if so, front and rear or just rear?

And how? It it an easy or time-consuming 2 man job )without any special equipment)?

I'm very used to the hassles of stripping calipers and bleeding on motorcycle brakes (long hassles often being the word!), but no clue on cars.

 

How much is the full caliper; and where do you recommend buying from, and OEM or aftermarket?

 

Or otherwise, how long might a good garage take to do it? Might, for speed, just be worth going for the replace everything and pay to get it done. 

My rear calipers were last replaced July 2018.

 

Cheers again.