A good point was made earlier that the battery may already be beyond full revival or even reasonable use revival.

 

But having the existing battery as fully charged as possible using an appropriate battery charger does mean the car can be reasonably used until a new replacement battery is fitted, or another battery charger maintainer recharge is required.  Sod's Law these things happen around holidays or other times when things are a lot less convenient.

 

ETA: and posters have put on here that they used the car with a battery that must beyond full revival for months or many months perhaps with some or more battery charger maintainer rechargers.  There are so many variables to the use of the vehicle and use/abuse of the battery.

  

Edited 28 March, 20242 yr by nta16
ETA:

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Well you've got some nifty multimeters, or a good mate to lend them to you.

 

You cam read up a lot and pick up a lot but the basics still apply and they're pretty straightforward and simple, if you think of the battery purely as a store, or a simple bank account, you can't take out more than is put in, you can only spend the money once and then it needs replacing if you want to spend more.

 

If you want more info, details, and fact sheets, links, on batteries and VW's system PM me.

 

There no trouble with learning for the first time absolutely everyone has to, but some of us struggle to retain or remember what we've learnt, and relearnt. 😄  I only learnt about VW's battery 'coding' stuff when I got a new battery for my wife's Fabia Mk3, all PITA stuff to me. 

 

Don't worry about battery serial numbers and battery make that was just for VW's sake and often the factory hasn't bother with the serial number just put a string of ones (1111111111) and all you need do is increase that number by one (1111111112).  Also you need to change the battery type from EFB to fleece (VW for AGM) and alter to 70 (Ah).  As with all computer data input or 'coding' be very careful to check what you've typed and double-check it before committing to the program.  See the example for my wife's car done by a Briskoda member on his OBDEleven.  The battery manufacturer was a three letter code but you can just leave it as before.  AFAIK Bosch is a Varta so I and you could put in "VAO" AFAIL VW's code for Varta (but mine has been fine left with "Bosch").

 

 

You might get the previous battery back for useful use, be interesting to see, as I put the secret is time and patience (which many don't posses, one or both) go as low (amps) slow and long (many hours or day or days) as you can, always fully charge the battery even if it means doing it in a couple of stages if you don't have time or need use of the car. 

 

Done!

Adaptation accepted.

Can you tell what's the difference between Binary-AGM and Fleece Battery?

In drop down menu i get also battery type "Binary - AGM".  My battery is BOSCH S5 A08 70AH 760 CCA AGM rating. It does not say Fleece.

I selected the Fleece option though.  

 

Edited 28 March, 20242 yr by VAskodas

3 minutes ago, VAskodas said:

Can you tell what's the difference between Binary-AGM and Fleece Battery?

Sorry, I can't remember so would have to look it up in notes or web search, so you might as well for yourself as it would be just as quick.

I can tell you VW call the setting Fleece or fleece for AGM battery (referring to the battery innards) and that's what you want to set to.

 Others may be able to remember chapter and verse the difference of Binary and Fleece.

 

Your battery is 760 (EN) cold cranking amps (CCA), the EN relates to the spec system used for this measurement, you can get info on the different test systems if you want but as in the Binary you don't need to know the difference if you don't want - as long as you enter fleece (or Fleece).

Same as you don't need to know about the old BEM code unless you really want.

 

Found some sort of information on how manufacturers describe AGM battery technology. Pretty much they stated that AGM= Absorbent glass matt or fleece. See screenshot from the Continental's website:

Here is the link as well: https://www.continental-aftermarket.com/en-en/products/spare-partsrepair-parts/batteries/agm-battery

You do need to check any information you get from any source, old bloke or any other, off the internet, car or any manufacturer's website, catalogue or data bases all have errors and omissions (especially old bloke on internet).  Try to cross reference any info with a couple of other reliable sources if you can.  I'm not saying Continental have put anything wrong, just for next bit(s). -

 

• "According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory.  The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries!  Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it!" - https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-a-bigger-capacity-battery-to-a-mk7-golf.320084/

 

• "AGM means absorbent glass mat and refers to the fine glass fiber separator between the positive and negative plates that helps absorb all the battery acid. AGM Batteries are advanced lead-acid batteries." -  https://www.yuasabatteries.com/resources/guides/agm-battery/

 

• What is a bipolar lead battery? - CBI Battery 101 series - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UxCIqdj2Y

 

Edited 28 March, 20242 yr by nta16
bullets

28 minutes ago, nta16 said:

You do need to check any information you get from any source, old bloke or any other, off the internet, car or any manufacturer's website, catalogue or data bases all have errors and omissions (especially old bloke on internet).  Try to cross reference any info with a couple of other reliable sources if you can.  I'm not saying Continental have put anything wrong, just for next bit(s). -

 

• "According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory.  The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries!  Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it!" - https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-a-bigger-capacity-battery-to-a-mk7-golf.320084/

 

• "AGM means absorbent glass mat and refers to the fine glass fiber separator between the positive and negative plates that helps absorb all the battery acid. AGM Batteries are advanced lead-acid batteries." -  https://www.yuasabatteries.com/resources/guides/agm-battery/

 

• What is a bipolar lead battery? - CBI Battery 101 series - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UxCIqdj2Y

 

Ok. So the info i shared  from a manufacturer's official site about AGM battery is correct or not??? Because for me it's the only official info that i could get that clearly stated that AGM stands for Absorbent glass fleece or mat. At least you can tell that the AGM and fleece is the same thing. Now for the Binary-AGM i'm not sure.

 

The question is how you can tell if your battery is just an  AGM, or Fleece or Binary AGM or it's all the same?  Does manufacturers label their products with these distinctions? Because if all these labels and types of AGM batteries are different things then there should be a clear distinction between AGM technologies and should be labeled accordingly in the product. For example: BOSCH S5 A08 70AH 760CCA AGM, or AGM-Fleece, or Binary-AGM!

I can't really understand  how your reference can answer these questions, just because it's from just another forum, from a youtuber and from a yuasa manufacturer ,which by the way in your reference on bullet 2 does not specify the difference between AGM batteries technology itself, just comparing and explaining the difference between AGM and Standard led-acid batteries?

 

Please excuse my bad English. I'm not a native speaker.

11 hours ago, VAskodas said:

Ok. So the info i shared  from a manufacturer's official site about AGM battery is correct or not???

Sorry I thought I made it clear but sorry obviously I did not, yes what they have put is correct - "(AGM) with absorbent glass fleece (or "mat") ".

 

AGM is fleece,  AGM binary is a different type of battery that AFAIK you would not be offered when entering your car details on a supplier website.

 

I've never seen a binary AGM battery when looking for car batteries so I've no idea what is on their label but I don't think you need worry about getting one without a good search specifically for one.

 

 

11 hours ago, VAskodas said:

I can't really understand  how your reference can answer these questions, just because it's from just another forum, from a youtuber and from a yuasa manufacturer ,which by the way in your reference on bullet 2 does not specify the difference between AGM batteries technology itself, just comparing and explaining the difference between AGM and Standard led-acid batteries?

The first bullet and link is to give conformation, and lots of other information if wanted, that you 'code' as "fleece".   Second bullet and link is to confirm what AGM, fleece and mat(t) mean and give more information, if wanted.  Not many companies actual give information about their products now and the internet generally has become sales over information, information that was previously available no longer is.  In the video there is an illustration of what the binary battery internal looks like which you can compare with your info from Continental.  But - 

 

You do not need to follow up on any of this information  as you have the correct AGM battery and know the correct term for the 'coding' (there will be several reasons why the binary alternative is available on the 'coding' machine but you would need to ask the 'coding' machine supplier or VW exactly why, good luck with that task.

 

 

11 hours ago, VAskodas said:

Please excuse my bad English. I'm not a native speaker.

Your English is great, my explaining and English are what are lacking.  My warning was to do as you have done and that is not to take anything you read or see as being necessarily correct and to check and do your own research.  Obviously you have to decided how much needs to be done or is worth doing for whatever the subject is.

 

You should get very good use and life out of your new battery but remember the basics, even if new or newer a battery is just a store so you can deplete or empty the store (constant parasitic drain, heavy use, faulty charging system) so some time in the future, possibly year(s) you may want to check the battery and do a preventative charge with a your Noco (or perhaps a very long drive with low electric consumption).

 

If you revive your old battery, to any extent, it may show you and confirm the benefit of using a battery charger maintainer when required.

 

Cheers.  

11 hours ago, nta16 said:

You should get very good use and life out of your new battery but remember the basics, even if new or newer a battery is just a store so you can deplete or empty the store (constant parasitic drain, heavy use, faulty charging system) so some time in the future, possibly year(s) you may want to check the battery and do a preventative charge with a your Noco (or perhaps a very long drive with low electric consumption).

Do you know how often I should charge the new battery for good maintenance?

Some guys say check every month and if needed then recharge. 
others just saying about general info on how the charger is working and its functions but not specifying maintenance charge intervals for best performance and condition. 
 

Im guessing that this is one more confusing thing to deal with as no manufacturer will say how to perform maintenance on any of their products for that matter because they have to make a profit doing this by them. 
 

Thanks by the way for all info you provided here to help not just me but everyone who perhaps may have same issues or questions to be answered. 
Cheers. 
 

9 hours ago, VAskodas said:

Do you know how often I should charge the new battery for good maintenance?

Some guys say check every month and if needed then recharge. 
others just saying about general info on how the charger is working and its functions but not specifying maintenance charge intervals for best performance and condition. 

Well it does depend on many variables with the car, it's use, your use of the car and how you use it and all the various electric items available on it.  Some think every car has a button to do everything for them so they have to do very little or nothing and even if that button does not exist they expect it too.  Depends where you are in Greece as to whether you use all the heating features on the car as they are high consumption items often - but the other side is that the air-con (and possibly blower motor) use a lot.

 

Then there are the modern essentials that life cannot possibly live without, such as "smart" phones I am told (though I have managed), using lower consumption items for a very long time without the engine running can use up battery store electric.  It is difficult for me to think of electric items in a car as I am more used to having very few of them.

 

You may know that when it is very cold (nearer to or below freezing weather) that puts more demand and strain on the battery but also hot and very hot weather drains a battery and high demand of say air-con.  You can look up the figures but a 20c ambient temperature the battery likes, IIRC 30c ambient has double self-discharge effect on the battery and IIRC 40c ambient double the effect of 30c (but don't trust my poor memory).

 

So you can learn and decide for yourself when you need to check and if required do a maintenance charge with a long drive and low electric consumption or better still just use a lower amperage appropriate "smart" charger maintainer like I GUESS your Noco (too expensive for my tastes) charger is.  An appropriate charger maintainer can be left on the car as a charger or maintainer, as it never overcharges the battery because it automatically switches to a maintainer charge when required.

 

For UK I suggest preventative/maintenance/recharge, call it what you will, at the times you might do winter-"summer"  (spring, autumn) tyre changes (not many do such here except in the north)  - I think I stole that idea from Banner Batteries when they used to post information on their website - and perhaps after the hottest period in summer, and perhaps at Xmas to New Year break, and/or if and when required.  Quite honestly it need not be that often, certainly not when both the car and battery are new but that does depend on all the variables I mentioned before.  Probably better to have too much rather than too little charging, the batteries are designed for cyclical use and charging so why not.  Cars that are not used much may have the maintainer connected all the time they are parked up but too long of either is a bad idea to me and a waste of having the car if you are not going to drive it.

 

I of course don't do any of this (we call it "do as I say not as I do" over here) I just charge the AGM battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, fitted 34 months and 23,000 miles ago, when I think it might need it which has been slightly more often than I expected but not many times and has a couple of times taken longer to reach full (or "FUL" on my cheaper "smart" charger) but at least one of those times the car and charger were outside overnight when the temperature went down to -4c.  And my wife does at least two very short journeys a day many working days and sometimes no more journeys on those days.  I did once see the stop/start not come into operation when I expected it to and done a charge but we usually turn the stop/start off all journeys (unless we forget).          

 

I always charge to full even though it is not necessary with the AGM battery and complex VW computer program, I do not have a tool to check level of charge and would still charge to full even if I had.

 

If I have not answered your questions here just say and I will be more direct and concise and give you more of my opinions/suggestions  to narrow things down.

 

9 hours ago, VAskodas said:

Im guessing that this is one more confusing thing to deal with as no manufacturer will say how to perform maintenance on any of their products for that matter because they have to make a profit doing this by them.

Actually quite the opposite if you read some of the battery manufacturers' websites and IIRC even in VWSkoda's newer models Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models  They are more fussy and careful than me about at what level to recharge,  They are safe in knowing that the very vast majority of owners and others will never see or look for this information, especially those that think they already know such stuff or too ignorant or lazy to look for such information from such a source (n my personal experience of dealing with the English public and tradesmen over decades that is often electricians, mechanics, engineers, usually men, the young and the old).

 

Battery manufacturers and other battery sellers are happy to have add-on sales of their battery chargers, also knowing the majority of the battery charger buyers will use them when the battery is very low (engine very difficult or won't start) by which time potentially the battery has been sufficiently damaged enough to never fully recover and its life probably shortened.

 

 

9 hours ago, VAskodas said:

Thanks by the way for all info you provided here to help not just me but everyone who perhaps may have same issues or questions to be answered.

Thank you.  Not everyone realises or fully realises that there are far more viewers than the limited number of posters to a thread at the time and of course potentially in the future,. I do try to think of these other viewers, when I remember.  But few people will read all my wordage which is fine, it also  means that those that only want to always skim read or only looked at parts will stay away or are more easily identified when they argue about something they think they have (skim) read that I have not written or meant.  I am also sometimes guilty of skim reading but much more often misreading.  I used to worry a little about making mistakes but this is the internet so I worry very little about it now.

 

Now you could help me please

I might write a "guide" for basic battery charging on this site, very few will see it or bother to read it but at least it gives me somewhere to 'copy & paste' from to save my typing finger, if you say it is OK I would use your photo of your battery as an example of the numbers.  I might not bother, but then I might as I have done a few others but this would be longer but more fragmented, perhaps other posts, as there is quite a lot that could be covered (all very basic non-technical stuff with incorrect technical terms and words as it won't be for those that already know or like to get all technical as that is beyond my knowledge, abilities (or caring at my age) and I can no longer edit beyond x-number of hours all the mistakes I make.

 

Edited 30 March, 20242 yr by nta16
typos

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Now you could help me please

I might write a "guide" for basic battery charging on this site, very few will see it or bother to read it but at least it gives me somewhere to 'copy & paste' from to save my typing finger, if you say it is OK I would use your photo of your battery as an example of the numbers.

Do it. No problem. In fact I think this will be great for everyone. The true is, the info here is scattered all over the  place and if will be summarized in a way of a guide that would be much easier for others not to lose track of the point while reading. 

Thanks.  I am not sure many would find the thread/post but I could link to it for those that might think they are interest or want some of the information.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Thanks.  I am not sure many would find the thread/post but I could link to it for those that might think they are interest or want some of the information.

 

This is good. Really. Whatever is happening with good intentions is always beneficial for everyone. Even if few people or even just one person will benefit from this it’s a win. 
Thanks again.