Skoda Octavia VRS 2015 won't start 😞

[BlockABoots]

So my 2015 Octavia VRS was supposed to go in for an MOT yesterday but the damn thing wouldn't start, as soon as I got in the car I noticed when I turned the ignition that all the dash was very dull, turned the key 1 click sound and nothing, great!. Have a little CTEK charger pack so hooked that up and left if for a few hours, but even then turned it on the dash was bright again but turning the key just resulted in multiple and rapid clicks now. The entertainment head unit informs me of low battery and looks on the battery itself the yellow indicator is showing still even after being charged for 6 hours.

 

The strange thing is this comes just after me going on a massive trip to Scotland not 5 days before so it's not like the car has been sitting for months with no use....which has been the case over the last year as now have a company car and my skoda in the past has been left for a good month or 2 without being used on at least 4 occasions in the last year and started without issue but now using it for a solid week with long journeys around Scotland and it does this a few days after!!?,  so that seems a bit suspect to me and maybe not the battery?

 

Is there anything I should check before getting a new battery?, and am I right in saying that you can no longer go out and just buy a new battery and swap it over??? (Modern technology hey!? 😤😤).

 

Have attached a photo of the currently fitted battery, not sure if that's a stock battery or no but have that car like 6 years and never replaced it

Edited 14 April by BlockABoots

[Warrior193]

Good morning, that is probably the original battery and it is most likely that it has failed. Prior to this failure, was the idle stop-start working as normal?

Replacement battery will require adaptation (coding) - this really should be done even if replacement is exactly same spec and chemistry type as original. You will require EFB battery as a minimum.

[BlockABoots]

57 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Good morning, that is probably the original battery and it is most likely that it has failed. Prior to this failure, was the idle stop-start working as normal?

Replacement battery will require adaptation (coding) - this really should be done even if replacement is exactly same spec and chemistry type as original. You will require EFB battery as a minimum.

 

No, no issue with start stop at all. Only thing I did notice was when I went to the car it was unlocked and I'm certain I had locked it the few days before. Can any garage code the new battery?

 

Will I notice any difference going with an AGM over EFB?

Edited 14 April by BlockABoots

[Warrior193]

AGM life and performance is superior to EFB, but will cost more.

You will definitely need to get adaptation done if changing battery type to AGM - even if the replacement battery is exactly the same as original, you should still get the adaptation done, as it is probable that the smart alternator control unit settings will have altered to cope with any battery errors detected.

Not all battery suppliers have the equipment (or are even aware of the need) to do the adaptation - ensure that you ask - walk away if they say it's not necessary.   

Edited 14 April by Warrior193
repetition

[rum4mo]

You say that you left the car locked and it had unlocked itself - maybe the central locking has become faulty, and has been cycling unlock>lock etc due to a wiring problem - that would "sort out" a weak/older battery and maybe even a new one - though that is just a thought/suggestion, nothing more.

 

Do you have enough time to run that CTEK charger on a "restoration" or whatever it is called charging program, if so try that and it might just recover that battery enough for it to survive if "topped up" while not in use.

 

I hardly ever use my old 2010 Audi S4, and so it lives connected to a CTEK in the garage - it has an AGM battery which I replaced at just over 10 year old point, just because I didn't fancy paying a high price for a battery when getting caught out when away from home.

My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has an EFB by Exide, it is still extremely "fit" after 8.5 years/48,000miles - though it does get a "restoration" recharge once a year and during Covid it was supported with another CTEK in the garage.

 

I think that I've read that Moll have slipped off the supplier's list to at least VW Group as their quality/reliability had dropped off - my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had a Moll and that lasted 1 years, but that was pre Auto Stop/Start and was maybe a "better quality period" for Moll.

 

Edit:- I'm sure that I've read of this happening to someone in the recent past, ie a lightly used car not getting left with battery support, then used on some long runs - then when back home, let down by state of charge of battery. In case you did not consider this, I have a mini DVM plugged into the "ciggy lighter" socket, and can see that even on a long run, or even just a 10 mile run, if you don't brake a lot etc, the battery charging will drop off to being "just enough" and so at journey end, even at times auto Stop/Start will be disabled, so what I'm suggesting is, don't consider that things are "what they used to be", ie long journey means battery is fully charged, nowadays, that is not the plan.

Edited 14 April by rum4mo

[BlockABoots]

4 hours ago, rum4mo said:

You say that you left the car locked and it had unlocked itself - maybe the central locking has become faulty, and has been cycling unlock>lock etc due to a wiring problem - that would "sort out" a weak/older battery and maybe even a new one - though that is just a thought/suggestion, nothing more.

 

Do you have enough time to run that CTEK charger on a "restoration" or whatever it is called charging program, if so try that and it might just recover that battery enough for it to survive if "topped up" while not in use.

 

I hardly ever use my old 2010 Audi S4, and so it lives connected to a CTEK in the garage - it has an AGM battery which I replaced at just over 10 year old point, just because I didn't fancy paying a high price for a battery when getting caught out when away from home.

My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has an EFB by Exide, it is still extremely "fit" after 8.5 years/48,000miles - though it does get a "restoration" recharge once a year and during Covid it was supported with another CTEK in the garage.

 

I think that I've read that Moll have slipped off the supplier's list to at least VW Group as their quality/reliability had dropped off - my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had a Moll and that lasted 1 years, but that was pre Auto Stop/Start and was maybe a "better quality period" for Moll.

 

Edit:- I'm sure that I've read of this happening to someone in the recent past, ie a lightly used car not getting left with battery support, then used on some long runs - then when back home, let down by state of charge of battery. In case you did not consider this, I have a mini DVM plugged into the "ciggy lighter" socket, and can see that even on a long run, or even just a 10 mile run, if you don't brake a lot etc, the battery charging will drop off to being "just enough" and so at journey end, even at times auto Stop/Start will be disabled, so what I'm suggesting is, don't consider that things are "what they used to be", ie long journey means battery is fully charged, nowadays, that is not the plan.

 

I think the CTEK one i have just has  modes, Bike, Car and Cold Weather don't believe it has this restoration mode you mentioned. I guess i could get some jump leads and jump start with my works vehicle and leave it running for a hours or so maybe this would give it enough juice?

 

Regarding getting the new battery adapted/coded could i not get the battery and then get the adaptation done a few days later? or will it not work at all without this?

[rum4mo]

Ah, so no "RECOND" option on your CTEK.

 

Bottom line, as usual "needs must" if you can't get this battery into a useable condition, then you might not have an easy option, running the car for a short period in terms of days, is not going to cause a big issue, but, do prioritise getting this done as it should improve the service life of the new battery.

[Warrior193]

That should not be an issue - especially if your replacement is another EFB. Make sure you do get it adapted correctly asap though.