the 2020 is different, i think, with mqbevo.

i managed to get it to work with gerät 36, easy entry passenger_over_drivermmi --> aktiv

easy entry front over mmi --> aktiv

easy entry front  --> aktiv

 

reset infotainment and there it was.

on the AAC & Parking brake issues:

 - left the car to charge this evening, i need to check the voiltage in the morning. Current thinking is that the rear brakes are either dirty or worn and this is the way the car is showing it. Weird, but nothing else makes sense.

Radio is out but I can't change the coding in infotainment for some reason (Security?) - i will try this again tomorrow if i get the chance.

Charge is good.

 

Rear brakes will be looked at on Wednesday.

 

Changed the coding on the radio, I have 4 speaker outputs on the unit itself. Now to work out how to mount the second pair of drivers...

fixed. Turns out it was a short to the ABS unit; one of the cables was under the hood so over time the insulation got worn away. €500 later, I have a fixed car...

.. and we have done some work today.

 

Both gloveboxes are out. Can't get the lever off for the bonnet, so the lower a pillar trim is currently still on.

Canton amp is out... that will be interesting. I *was* going to bring the new amp outputs to the Canton to connect through to the doors, but there is minimal point now, as that cable setup is kinda spicy.

 

So I will probabaly pull some cables through to the door connectors tomorrow and connect to the amps, then run a set through to the radio.

I've prised the ISO connector out of my T-cabling as there's zero room behind the radio, so the outputs will be directly connected there and then run through to the inputs on the DSP, which will sit behind the rear seats. Everything on that side is cabled up.

 

so that will leave just the big power cable and earth, and then the tuning, I think. Along with the speaker replacement.

 

Front lamp is also mounted. looks better than I thought it might, and with 4 screws in it's surprisingly stable. Plate has moved down some, but it seems readable by carparks, which is important here.

Activation will probably be via the CanM8 Connect I have; seems that on the BCM, T73a pin 14 is switched live, 16 is CAN H and 17 is CAN L. Will try to find these and then connect the CanM8 up.

changed up some parts and added a couple of stays. Still need to swap a couple of screws for A2 / A4 Stainless ones with some correct washers, but I am happy with how this sits for the moment.

light is finally working. I've been travelling a lot for work, so a liot of stuff has been on hold for too long... got it done just before Christmas and it's rather good. More to follow later.

 

Car also now runs Michelin X-Ice North 4 SUVs in 235/55R18. Seems to make a positive difference versus the Conti contact tyres that were on before. Grip levels are now truly nuts and it's difficult to provoke a slide. Just over €1100 for the set, fitted and mounted. Old tyres are at the lockup without rims for the moment.

Couple of photos from the other day as I washed the car. Shows dip beam and with the new light.

..and with the original high beams.

 

Phone  cam is not consistent with lighting compensation... the big light is way brighter than the oem. The beam pattern differences are also pretty obvious too.

it's hard to describe the differences of running with this vs the standard high beams. We have a couple of other cars, and they both run Phillips 7001 bars, which are ref 30+30. This is the same, conceptually, but.. no, it's not.  The Philips bars are good budget bars; relatively small and giving out quite a lot of light in a reasonable pattern.

The Lazer 24 light is way more yellow and complements the "pinspots" of the standard OEM LEDs nicely. Those pin spots aren't bad per se, but they're not particularly good either. Nice long throw but very little spill.

The bar adds way more spill, and a chunk of throw at the same time. Difficult to tell how much, as there's been too much traffic around to stop, but I will hopefully be out on a lake in a few weeks, so will try to get some numbers at that point. I am assuming reflections from around 2km without too much difficulty and an obvious 500m+ light pool. Safe to say when you flash this at someone, they notice. I can now see the edge of the road at 2-300m on both sides, and a good 15m each way (remember a 2 lane A Road is generally 10m wide) - it's probably more but to check that I'm going to need a drone and a very long tape measure.

Switch is next to the light switch, so I can turn the excess off at will. That's an important part of the legality here. Mount also seems good with no vibrations; it's just a full mount and into the bumper.

 

Wiring is from Lazer using a CANM8 - that seeems to have worked very nicely, thanks. Cable for hifi amps was put through at the same time, behind the battery (without removing it!). Helped that a bunch of covers are currently off for the hifi install... took them an hour or so, just over €100. CanM8 was 80, mount around 75, the light itself close to €750 IIRC. Stabilizers were another 20 or so - they are just screwed in to the uprights of the grill. Satisfied with this.

Another not so minor issue last week: p0299.

 

Limp mode, flashing glow plug.

 

Turns out the boost pipe from intercooler to turbo wasn't on correctly... fixed now.

 

Was on the ice over the weekend. Ca  argue normal is better than snow mode for drifting. Absolutely awesome car for this with a decent balance if power vs grip with the x ice north tyres. Very impressed, great to get some slide practice in.

 

You are welcome to join us next time!

Pics

after the weird scare with the left light pointing at the floor, I've done some driving and it's all been pleasingly unconsequential.

Car doesn't want to start easily when it's chilly (only just under zero out there) so I figure the battery is dead and needs replacing at some point soon.
Audio stuff also needs completed, but I have a lot of stuff on my list of things to do and only so much time and money, so.... we will see.

left the car at the airport this week and on returning to it, the webasto remote was flashing green long - short x 3. Hmnm.

Turns out the 12v battery is pretty much toast. sigh - i was hoping to get through this winter with it, but obviously that is not to be. Then the real issues started. P0402, excessive EGR; so either the EGR or MAP is dirty or broken. Towed to my mechanic, let's see what happens next....

Car is allegedly done, I just didn't get time today to pick it up. Battery is completely dåd, so it got replaced first. Let's see what else is on the bill...

Interestingly enough, I drove Helsinki and back this week (or something like that) - and my consumption is around 0,5l/100 better than it was before the EGR and boost pipe sorting. Interesting. Yesterday I hit 5.7 on the way home and it's been previously 6.2 or 3. Interesting to see if it continues like this.

Lots done in the boot. The false floor is now flat again, and the lip to the boot is minimal but there. Which is what I want.

I'm working with 12mm, I think, and 75mm in the middle. Sub should bolt in nicely and just needs and eye on the left side to hook it into the car. Will maybe add a block to really pull it down.

Pics to follow.

Also swapped to the 8x12 dsp. Can now do 3 way front plus 2 way rear plus sub without issues 😁

This is the amp layout at the moment; only 7 channels. Will add at least a 4 channel to replace the 2, maybe I do go 3 way up front, maybe not. Then the support in the middle needs to move and I need another distro block, but that's future music ATM

This is with everything down. Need to add some hinges.

Underneath the rear section. Random pieces to support. no specific reason, I have to work out what else needs to go under there.

7

Edited 12 April, 20251 yr by brettikivi
added context

and with some coding, I have sound. Nice! Sounds fantastic, and that's with minimal tuning. Another few amp channels needed (and a few hours of tuning) and we should be good.

Paint is applied. Now to find power; somehow, the DSP doesn't detect anything on high level input, so I'm going to need to switch the setup on and off somehow. So it's either with a switch or ignition live or both. I've understood pretty much all fuses around 4x have ignition live - for the moment, I'm going to run a couple of cables forward and turn things on and off manually. Can add power later :)

Also put in a hole for a 90mm fan, which I may yet increase to a 120, we'll see how warm things get.

Stole ignition live from the Canton amp.

Man, this is damned gooooood. More tuning needed. And lots more mods...

Picked up an SMSL po 100 while in the UK over the weekend. It's even better than I thought - as in there's a lot more detail and bass. Surprised at how much difference it makes.
Now to try and work out how to make this work together with the system and / or the Pi that could go into the car...

Still don't have a good answer for this, but I suspect strongly I will end up with a touchscreen for the Pi. Otherwise, was back to Helsinki and back in midsummer lightness - the car really does need some audio tuning for the Android Auto side of things. Toslink is fantastic.

more work to do...

driven it another 800 today, we're now at 129k.

Some reminders for myself:
- the rear extra reversing lights are on the shelf and waiting for me to attach and cable them. They will need to be switched to pass inspection.

• the tail lights in those will also need to be switched.

• I need to get the speakers into the rear doors. But at the same time I want the door LEDs in, as I don't want to take the door cards off too many times... this is going to be very tight time wise as I may need to take the car to Europe in a couple of weeks already

• need to tune the audio system. Works well with Android auto and Spotify on two devices, but not well enough. I need another to make things good. Long story there, but there's going to need to be some thought put into this.

• I really want the new swtich in the tailgate so I can lock the car at the same time as closing the boot. This needs CAN unfortuntately.

• thkning about how to get a 8" widescreen on the dash over the top of the HU, so I can run spotify via touch on a Pi directly into my sound system. And also get some logging done at the same time.