Anyone know what three beeps and a flashing handbrake light mean?  Seems continuous but the gap between each set of three beeps is not identical.   Beeps are about 3/4 second apart.  

 

Brake fluid is the right level. No noticeable loss of hydraulic pressure.  

 

No codes shown in obd11

It thinks you are driving with the handbrake on. Check the switch by the handbrake and its wiring.

 

Thanks.  It is parked up for a week whilst I find enough nurofen to get rid of the headache the beeping caused.  Will check the handbrake switch when I'm back 

 

I thought the three beeps was more the front brakes though.  The handbrake being a continuous sharp beep. 

Edited 29 May, 20242 yr by jpadie

4 hours ago, jpadie said:

I thought the three beeps was more the front brakes though.

If correct, that means the LHF inner brake pad is heavily worn.

56 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

If correct, that means the LHF inner brake pad is heavily worn.

 

Why the LHF?

 

Pads are ok but disks need replacing.   Job for next week.  Will do pads at the same time in any event.  

 

 

8 minutes ago, jpadie said:

 

Why the LHF?

 

 

The wear sensor is only on that pad - its used as a proxy for all 4 pads

Not sure that you're going to find a pad wear sensor anywhere on a UK-sold 1.2 HTP. 

 

On 30/05/2024 at 05:36, Breezy_Pete said:

Not sure that you're going to find a pad wear sensor anywhere on a UK-sold 1.2 HTP. 

 

definitely not on mine!  

I think this is in fact a brake line leak.  will monitor,

Did you get sorted with the console bush stuff?

Wheel cylinder leak into drum, maybe?

As it happens I've just got out from under the car doing this.   It's on A-stands and am really struggling to get the horizontally mounted 18mm bolt out.  No space for a breaker bar and my socket keep slipping off.  I've had two metallic squeaks though, so I will persevere and not admit to anyone that I'm using my torque wrench to undo this bolt ...   I'm wondering whether it might help to jack up the sump a bit.  And maybe the wheel hub needs support to reduce the pressure on the bolt?  Which leads me to the next conundrum of the fittings to the wheel hub all being seized.  I've put on wd40.  No oxy torch here unfortunately.  I've only got a butane gun which I doubt will be hot enough to make a happorth of difference.

 

It's annoying not having a lift available!

Plenty of long extensions is one solution.  One side may need the engine lifting a little for clearance.

 

The thing that'll really pee you off is when one or other bolt galls in the alloy of the console and starts to undo, then locks up again, forever...

 

Edited 6 June, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

The three M8's at each balljoint can usually be persuaded to shear off and thereby let go, if they won't undo.

That would be a challenging result as I don't have alternative transport at the moment, and don't have any good quality M8 stainless steel bolts... 

 

Probably best that I put the car back together and go get some supplies!

 

 

Stainless no good, weaker than 8.8 grade high tensile bolts.

Can't remember what grade the original bolts are, but at least that.

Edited 6 June, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete