Reaching out to group members....

 

Having fitted a new replacement water pump & everything is as it should be from engine perspective. 

 

The engine section water pipes are warm to hot on low tick over but it seems water is flowing slow going through radiator part... The radiator remains cool 

 

Could members advise ... Is there anything I can use to flush out radiator section to maybe removed sedimentary clogged sections that maybe preventing water circulation?? 

 

What is the best way to increase water flow through radiator? 

 

There is a small water hose pipe in boot section under front window (driver side) with a tap fitted which allows a (kind of water bleed process) like you would on brakes with bleed nipple. Do I use this at all ??

 

Help would be greatly appreciated 

 

Rich

Rich, assuming you have actually driven the car a distance to get everything operating as they should and that the thermostat is opening and you have no air locks and checked the heater was working fully, car runs at usual temperature on reasonable length drive.

 

Assuming all that best way to clean the cooling/heating system is to clean the heater matrix, engine block and radiator inside and out, same for any hoses you can.  If possible it can be better to remove the rad and heater matrix if reasonably possible (and any pipes and hoses).

 

The exact details I don't know on your car but small drain holes are nor best to drain from when things need cleaning disconnecting bigger hoses with get more debris out.  Existing drain taps or drain holes out to clear them may also be necessary.

 

The following is for other British "classics" but you can get the idea and adapt as required. -

 

More thorough system clean and overall -

before starting consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric radiator cooling fan as this would dovetail in with the work below.

 

You may want to check or change the hoses, thermostat, heater tap, fan belt and pressure cap.

 

Procedure:

a) clean the whole system with something like Holts Speedflush

 

b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator

 

c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out

 

d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [or do three points below with items connected together, flush, back-flush, flush again as below] 

• flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean

 

e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins

 

f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal

 

g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system

 

h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine.

 

Flushing and reverse-flushing -

I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid.

 

You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage.

 

If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay).

 

For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car.

 

For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals.

 

On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it.

 

I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate.

 

For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment.

 

After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill.

 

Some different products (no order) -

• Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/
• STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/
• Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804
• Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/

OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

 

HTH.

 

@RichardStandard10 I'd agree with @nta16 procedures, with the note that I have never used any of the cited products.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Rich, assuming you have actually driven the car a distance to get everything operating as they should and that the thermostat is opening and you have no air locks and checked the heater was working fully, car runs at usual temperature on reasonable length drive.

 

Assuming all that best way to clean the cooling/heating system is to clean the heater matrix, engine block and radiator inside and out, same for any hoses you can.  If possible it can be better to remove the rad and heater matrix if reasonably possible (and any pipes and hoses).

 

The exact details I don't know on your car but small drain holes are nor best to drain from when things need cleaning disconnecting bigger hoses with get more debris out.  Existing drain taps or drain holes out to clear them may also be necessary.

 

The following is for other British "classics" but you can get the idea and adapt as required. -

 

More thorough system clean and overall -

before starting consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric radiator cooling fan as this would dovetail in with the work below.

 

You may want to check or change the hoses, thermostat, heater tap, fan belt and pressure cap.

 

Procedure:

a) clean the whole system with something like Holts Speedflush

 

b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator

 

c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out

 

d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [or do three points below with items connected together, flush, back-flush, flush again as below] 

• flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean

 

e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins

 

f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal

 

g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system

 

h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine.

 

Flushing and reverse-flushing -

I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid.

 

You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage.

 

If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay).

 

For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car.

 

For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals.

 

On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it.

 

I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate.

 

For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment.

 

After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill.

 

Some different products (no order) -

• Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/
• STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/
• Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804
• Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/

OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

 

HTH.

 

@nta16 WOW thank you from the bottom of my heart for providing such a comprehensive reply including links with YouTube video.... You are an absolute legend... I'm glad these 'post' remain on the forum because I'm sure others will find the advice really helpful 🤩😏😉... Thanks again Rich

I used to use Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner but it doesn't seem to around anymore* other than a USA version.  I was told local car company Cosworth used to put Bars (Leaks)  Conditioner in their engines but don't know if that's true,(course they also done the "dog's turd" in the tube for those with memories that go back).

 

* other than below -

Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner - for example only - https://www.hids-direct.co.uk/bars-flush-cooling-system-cleaner-100g-baf100/

 

Edited 19 June, 20241 yr by nta16

I bought one of the follow for £8 off eBay then bought another later, for £4, both new, I used the second to get gearbox oil out (no drain plug).  Used them both for years, still have one left used it only this week to get water out of a domestic water meter box. Better and more expensive extractors are available.

 

Hilka Multi Purpose Siphon Pump Kit - one eBay example only - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266835870315

 

Edited 20 June, 20241 yr by nta16
missing word

17 hours ago, nta16 said:

Rich, assuming you have actually driven the car a distance to get everything operating as they should and that the thermostat is opening and you have no air locks and checked the heater was working fully, car runs at usual temperature on reasonable length drive.

 

Assuming all that best way to clean the cooling/heating system is to clean the heater matrix, engine block and radiator inside and out, same for any hoses you can.  If possible it can be better to remove the rad and heater matrix if reasonably possible (and any pipes and hoses).

 

The exact details I don't know on your car but small drain holes are nor best to drain from when things need cleaning disconnecting bigger hoses with get more debris out.  Existing drain taps or drain holes out to clear them may also be necessary.

 

The following is for other British "classics" but you can get the idea and adapt as required. -

 

More thorough system clean and overall -

before starting consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric radiator cooling fan as this would dovetail in with the work below.

 

You may want to check or change the hoses, thermostat, heater tap, fan belt and pressure cap.

 

Procedure:

a) clean the whole system with something like Holts Speedflush

 

b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator

 

c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out

 

d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [or do three points below with items connected together, flush, back-flush, flush again as below] 

• flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean

 

e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins

 

f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal

 

g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system

 

h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine.

 

Flushing and reverse-flushing -

I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid.

 

You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage.

 

If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay).

 

For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car.

 

For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals.

 

On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it.

 

I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate.

 

For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment.

 

After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill.

 

Some different products (no order) -

• Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/
• STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/
• Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804
• Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/

OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

 

HTH.

 

@nta16 a hypothetical question here.... Can we bypass a heater matrix so hot water can go direct to radiator and then to engine area? I'm not sure if the heater matrix is totally shot or not .... Time will tell... The car engine drives nice etc

18 hours ago, nta16 said:

Rich, assuming you have actually driven the car a distance to get everything operating as they should and that the thermostat is opening and you have no air locks and checked the heater was working fully, car runs at usual temperature on reasonable length drive.

 

Assuming all that best way to clean the cooling/heating system is to clean the heater matrix, engine block and radiator inside and out, same for any hoses you can.  If possible it can be better to remove the rad and heater matrix if reasonably possible (and any pipes and hoses).

 

The exact details I don't know on your car but small drain holes are nor best to drain from when things need cleaning disconnecting bigger hoses with get more debris out.  Existing drain taps or drain holes out to clear them may also be necessary.

 

The following is for other British "classics" but you can get the idea and adapt as required. -

 

More thorough system clean and overall -

before starting consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric radiator cooling fan as this would dovetail in with the work below.

 

You may want to check or change the hoses, thermostat, heater tap, fan belt and pressure cap.

 

Procedure:

a) clean the whole system with something like Holts Speedflush

 

b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator

 

c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out

 

d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [or do three points below with items connected together, flush, back-flush, flush again as below] 

• flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean
• final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean

 

e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins

 

f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal

 

g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system

 

h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine.

 

Flushing and reverse-flushing -

I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid.

 

You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage.

 

If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay).

 

For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car.

 

For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals.

 

On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it.

 

I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate.

 

For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment.

 

After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill.

 

Some different products (no order) -

• Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/
• STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/
• Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804
• Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/
• Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/

OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

 

HTH.

 

@nta16 @Paws4Thot I took my Skoda to a garage to correct issues with car starting the mechanic put incorrect coolant... Using OAT coolant; the car was ticking over then a leak came from water pump ... I told them about this corrosive effect can have on older cars... Needless to say I've had to buy a replacement water pump ... This new water no longer leaks... The old water pump I was told had simply broken down with particle fragments evident... They removed these fragments but my suspicion is some of those fragments could have circulated.. 

 

Could the OAT coolant have destroyed the old water pump so quickly? Could this OAT coolant have damaged the heater matrix? Or do you think it simply needs multiple flushing out ?? 

 

Needless to say I told them to drain the water and remove this OAT coolant and flush it with repeated water etc... then used conventional proper blue coolant 

 

I seek your valued opinion 😬

Edited 20 June, 20241 yr by RichardStandard10
Update

I don't know the "plumbing" of the Estelles but normally you can bypass the heater matrix some older cars came without a heater, or it was a cost extra, also a vehicle going to a place in the world that doesn't get too cold might not have a heater.  To bypass you just run a hose  to lose as much of the heater inlet and outlet as possible.

 

I don't know what the Estelle heater matrix is made of but if it can be removed you may better be able to judge it's condition inside and out and clean it better.  What makes you think the heater is shot, do you mean the matrix or the fan blower, with the MGs a lot of heating effect is lost by the heater box seals perishing with age so hot air gets out and cold air can come in.

 

With your previous water pump and coolant see what comes out in the wash, I put in the notes to use a bucket to catch what comes out of the system each time that way you capture what comes out and you can inspect that for metal bits or coolant gloop and other debris.

 

I'm not sure how corrosive the coolant would be and in such a short time more likely the old water pump falling apart and taking any muck out that's plugging a gap would cause a a weep or leak.  Most garage wont put in anywhere near the time and effort you can/should, the secret is to get out as much residue each time as this is where the crud can be and any residue dilutes the amount and effect of the next flush or fill.  This is all very basic work, like much of car servicing, maintenance and some repairs it boils down to clean and lubricate but needs to be done properly and well to have the most effect.  Great time of year to do such a job when it's warm and things dry quicker, who wants to mess around with cold water when the weather isn't warm, whereas the water can keep you cooler in hot weather.

 

If you do a good thorough job and then just change the coolant regularly and timely  then unless something disintegrates in the future you'll not need to be as thorough with future coolant changes.

 

Allow plenty of time and then some more, don't rush the job or miss anything out, I allow three days that way if I finish in a day or less that's great but if I get fed up or have to wait for something I'm not bothered but if you're not using the car you want wait much longer.

 

Good luck.

 

7 hours ago, RichardStandard10 said:

 I took my Skoda to a garage to correct issues with car starting the mechanic put incorrect coolant... Using OAT coolant

NEVER go to that garage again! I don't know how corrosive OAT is or isn't, but I do know that it's immiscible with glycol.

I have used this in a coolant with some additives inside,all these years the system was ''abused".

It did very good job.