Just a later revision

5 hours ago, Papez said:

I didn't find anything suggesting that there is any difference.

 

 

In the 1995- models was with A.

I just remember that i didn't ask him but i think the switch is with no light on it.

 

Now the car is without the panel, i had to make some tiny repairs (already have a broken screw position) on it plus i will try to paint it.

By the way the mechanic pulled the wire (that from the gear box with the square nose which ends on the odometer) a lot, let's pray that it didn't did any damage and ''broke'' it from it's base.

14 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

In the 1995- models was with A.

But you neither have a 1995- model or -A variant

 

14 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I just remember that i didn't ask him but i think the switch is with no light on it

 

What's the question here?

 

14 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

By the way the mechanic pulled the wire (that from the gear box with the square nose which ends on the odometer) a lot, let's pray that it didn't did any damage and ''broke'' it from it's base.

 

You are supposed to disconnect it from the gearbox before any work with the instrument panel, to prevent any damage. However, it's quite thick Bowden tube, it shouldn't break easily.

 

What I did was, that I released the instrument panel clips once I had enough space to reach them, that made the whole operation easier. I didn't even need to remove steering wheel.

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by Papez

1 hour ago, Papez said:

But you neither have a 1995- model or -A variant

 

Just an information in case that someone else is want to do the same.

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

What's the question here?

 

Can i use in the future a switch with led on it? As the electric window switches but these have 6 pins.

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

I had enough space to reach them, that made the whole operation easier. I didn't even need to remove steering wheel.

 

I had to do some insulation work inside, cloth tape around the cables, separate plugs with noise insulation so won't tough each other, tighten the panel screws etc.

As for the cable what should i use when i put it back?

Common, silicone, molybdenum, lithium grease?

Silicone or WD-40 spray?

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Just an information in case that someone else is want to do the same.

This information has been already posted on page 2. Your unit is 10-pin, it's same for B and C variants.

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Can i use in the future a switch with led on it? As the electric window switches but these have 6 pins.

 

As long as the switch has separate pins for backlight only - Felicia window switches can be used, for example. But other switches meant to directly control window motors have usually combined light and input power pins. 

 

There are also switches for lock/unlock, but I didn't find any Info regarding internal connections.

Just in case that a member in the future will need the diagram that @Papez provided me, here it is in english.

 

 

The switch is installed in the central console and works fine, when i finish with the panel (and the speedometer cable) i will post photos.

Edited 2 October, 20241 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

I could put it below the steering wheel cover buit it would be difficult to reach it when i was in a hurry.

 

 

I put it there, was a digital clock ''just to fill the gap", in the future i will try to find another switch with green led light to mach better in the whole area.

On 01/10/2024 at 11:29, D.FYLAKTOS said:

works fine, when i finish with the panel (and the speedometer cable) i will post photos.

 

This thread has been a bit co fusing, which method have you used in the end?

55 minutes ago, Papez said:

 

This thread has been a bit co fusing, which method have you used in the end?

 

But i said it few days ago, thus the photos. 🙂

 

Quote

Here are some first photos from the project, they are not so good because i was in a hurry. I was outside the repair-shop and i had to remove the panel by myself to save time and money.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/525673-felicia-with-a-central-lock-unlock-switch/?do=findComment&comment=5886090

 

 

 

 

On 01/10/2024 at 10:39, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I had to do some insulation work inside, cloth tape around the cables, separate plugs with noise insulation so won't tough each other, tighten the panel screws etc.

 

 

I will also paint the panel and the TC-6 plate and i will work on the speeometer cable hose.

For this project i will continue here

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/320528-replacing-felicia-speedometer-cable/?do=findComment&comment=5886857

when i finish i will post photos from the central lock switch (here) and in the future i will make a video since it's something unique for a Felicia.

In process (floor mats are missing, i have made a custom order for these).

 

 

An Alfa Romeo Brera (as @Thefeliciahacker has) blocked my exit from the repair shop !

 

 

 

Why is there glue where the dash insert mounts? 

From previous attempts to stop seeking noises, it worked but it's trouble when it's time to remove the panel.

Now it's cleaned and i will replace it with something else as quality silicone in small quantities of course.

This is how it looked when installed in the repair shop, the result (around) is not good because not everything (gauges, switches etc) is back in place and the console is dirty but can take an idea of how it looks.

The position there is the best solution at that time, i could put it elsewhere but it wouldn't be visible and (some sort of) difficult to reach.

 

 

I had an idea to put it in the plastic above the steering wheel where some cars have the Hazard button

 

 

but the electrician said ''No''.

Here is how it looks today, not good photos but you can take an idea.

 

 

 

 

 

Something must be done with a led light as background in that switch.

Update: Today my electrician tried to install a new window switch with green led on it as Lock-Unlock switch.

 

 

He tried based on this diagram but failed

 

so he tried to improvise but failed too, the led light refused to open in steady mode. 😧

I won't give up the fight, i will find a way to have a switch with green light to match the whole console.

My switches have green lighting I just use 6 pin ones very simple

19 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

My switches have green lighting I just use 6 pin ones very simple

 

I have 4 of them for my electric windows but the problem is that their dimension does not fit to the existing hole that's why i am trying to find a bigger one (with light on it).

I refuse to give up the fight, i will find a solution.

On 13/11/2024 at 20:53, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I refuse to give up the fight, i will find a solution.

 

Update: Good news, my electrician manage to open the switch, isolate the green light and manage to work independently from the lock-unlock procedure.

Here is a photos that he send me, the cables are ready so tomorrow morning he will install it.

 

 

 

For sure the green led of the switch isn't so bright as the other gauges but in the night i could see it, now it's like a dark spot.

Here is in it's final status.

 

 

Not good (day light) photo by the was but i was in a hurry.

 

 

 

This is as it look at night, i asked from the electrician to give to that switch power from the windows switch so every time i open the light it will illuminate, look good huh?

Edited 28 January, 20251 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

is it really needed?

The switch or the illumination?