1 hour ago, Papez said:

The removal of the instrument cluster should be a 10 min job, if you did it before...

 

I have done it many times, first by myself (no internet) and then via Haynes manual, the photo above is from my car.

For repairs, install insulation, remove the alarm cable, change switches, fix the tachometer cable etc.

Sequentially there are some squeaking noises and tolerance plus a broken O style screw base (that behind the TC-6 but i made a patent) so i put some windshield glue and everything are tight and quiet.

It can be removed if something has to be repaired but otherwise i want to leave it as is because now i have almost not crackle noise.

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

An alternative would be manipulation with the switch inside the servo.

 

Behind the driver's door panel?

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Behind the driver's door panel?

 

Yes, there are 5 wires going to the door lock motor, 2 are to move the motor, 3 are for switch that provides lock/unlock signal for the locking unit.  You need to somehow add another switch that won't interfere with the original switch. Full schematics would probably help, since the locking unit only show 2 wires for switches.

The best option is to intercept it at the lock relay, which is much easier to control.

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

The best option is to intercept it at the lock relay, which is much easier to control.

 

I won't remove the panel, i have done it so many times that damages on it start to occur.

16 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I won't remove the panel, i have done it so many times that damages on it start to occur.

nah 

Does any of @Papez @Thefeliciahacker @R_U_AFA or any other fellow Skodian knows if i need a 4 or 5 pin switch?

I have seen even one with 6.

 

 

IF i need 4 only can the job be done with 2 spring buttons (Off-push ON) ?

Here is an example:

https://static.rapidonline.com/catalogueimages/product/78/15/s78-1570p01wj.jpg

Correction: the above is for windows but maybe can do the jod as this one:

 

https://b.scdn.gr/images/sku_main_images/045376/45376003/20230831133208_diakoptis_parathyron_aytokinitou_universal_991801104.jpeg

 

https://d.scdn.gr/images/sku_images/081695/81695401/20230831133209_d2158899.jpeg

 

Looks good as an alternative solution.

 

 

If you're doing it the right way through the central unit, 3-pin or 2 momentary switches is all you need - it works by connecting either contact to ground.

 

For the in-doornvariant, you'll have to figure it out. The wiring diagrams show that lock/unlock is just matter of connecting/disconnecting contact inside the motor to the ground, but doesn't say which is for lock and unlock. Once you figure that out, you have two options - either lock/unlock momentary buttons, one NO, parallel to the motor switch, and one NC, in series with the motor switch (you can use three pin buttons with both sets of contacts). The second option is a 5pin window switch and connect it on relevant contacts.

 

 

One warning though - it's not safe to put push-to-unlock-switch on the door. It can be easily pushed if you leave window open even with small gap.

Edited 5 September, 20241 yr by Papez

Do i need an electric diode?

No, you don't, you're just overriding the stock switch.

There might be a problem that you'll need to hold the switch for a moment until the motor moves.. but solving that would require more than just a diode.

 

Using inputs meant for this would be much easier.

Edited 5 September, 20241 yr by Papez

I have printed your image plus the text and tomorrow morning i will give them to my electrician.

I already have provided to him the wiring diagram from manual and the switch so the order will be one and simple:

"Make it work" !!!

I just returned from the electrician, i gave him all i had but he said that has a problem to find from where the main cables are coming.

I told him about the relay which is behind the gauge cluster plus i don't want to remove it.

 

 

 

He said he will search about it when he find the time, i am not optimistic.

This is wrong wiring diagram, it shows pre-1997 with a 6pin unit. Plus, it doesn't show door connectors.

 

This is the correct one:

 

T12a and T2r are connectors under the carpet on the fron left A-pillar, T12b and T2u same on the right

Edited 6 September, 20241 yr by Papez

21 minutes ago, Papez said:

This is wrong wiring diagram, it shows pre-1997 with a 6pin unit. Plus, it doesn't show door connectors.

 

 

Oh, was  a copy from Haynes manual.

I will print the new ones.

 

 

I also found them in english, now he has no excuses !!!

Felicia has 6pin switches

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Felicia has 6pin switches

 

For the electric windows.

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Felicia has 6pin switches

 

You mean window switches?

They are 5 pin, but different connection than standard window switches. You can get same design with standard connection (and red backlight) - they were used in Audi 80/A4

8 minutes ago, Papez said:

 

You can get same design with standard connection (and red backlight) - they were used in Audi 80/A4

 

Still can be found in red colour

https://www.soundstreet.gr/products/51585.html

also in green (i had them) and white (i have them now), the problem is if you try to find one after few years the answer is ''Out of Stock''.

Example here

but all of them are 6 pin.

@Papez you mean switches like these?

 

 

When i bought my Felicia looked like this

 

https://www.polychronou.gr/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/DSC09128.jpg

 

same crappy gear knob and gaiter-hand brake handle-central console etc.

Still have those first windows switches, were in green colour with no good feeling when you pressed them.

Unfortunately 2 electricians said ''No" (i can't do it or i don't know) but a 3rd said bring it to make a check. he said he knowe Fabia,Octavia but not Felicia.

i gave him the diagrams that @Papez suggested me and he said he can not read them, i told him that the relay is in the back of the dashboard and i don't want to remove it and i suggest him to remove the door panel and work inside.

He found the plug, when you remove it and with a tester (the other side connected to the ground) when you touch the Yellow wire the car locks the doors, touch it again and unlocks.

I said inside of me ''We found it!" and i thought that with a button with parallel cable and a ground will work but when he put the plug back and try to ''steal'' a signal from the back side then did not work.

 

 

 

I am very-very disappointed, why the system does not allow the lock-unlock procedure to work parallelly?

WHY?

that doesn't really make sense

4 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

that doesn't really make sense

 

Yellow wire in the plug behind the driver's panel, unplug, hold the female part and one touch lock, another touch unlock, multiple times checked.

I thought that this (simple) solution was found and no dashboard removal etc but then the electrician followed the cables to the left column, touches it and said no response from that yellow cable, he can not do anything etc.

I visited another electrician, explain him the situation and said maybe a diode can solve this but i still wonder, why?

On 21/09/2024 at 09:17, D.FYLAKTOS said:

why the system does not allow the lock-unlock procedure to work parallelly?

Because it has dedicated pins for that purpose?

 

You cannot just connect a switch in parallel. You need one switch in parallel for lock, and one in series for unlock, because switch in the lock motor works connected to ground - locked, disconnected from ground  - unlocked. 

The older 6-pin unit you posted earlier worked the way you'd need, precisely because it didn't have this capability.

 

Btw, what kind of electrician "who knows Fabias and Octavias" cannot read the  VW-standard wiring diagram?

Edited 22 September, 20241 yr by Papez

1 hour ago, Papez said:

 

 

You cannot just connect a switch in parallel. You need one switch in parallel for lock, and one in series for unlock, because switch in the lock motor works connected to ground - locked, disconnected from ground  - unlocked. 

 

The older 6-pin unit you posted earlier worked the way you'd need, precisely because it didn't have this capability.

 

Btw, what kind of electrician "who knows Fabias and Octavias" cannot read the  VW-standard wiring diagram?

 

I will ''copy-paste'' this to the new electrician.

 

Is this correct?

 

 

 

 

I don't know, had in his computer the diagrams from other Skoda models but not mine, i gave them the diagrams translated plus directions for the 5-pin switch but he couldn't do nothing.

I lost time with that idiot.