Both my rear wheel bearings need replacing and I'm looking for some advice on any special tools I will require for this job, e.g. for removing the brake calliper bracket bolts, wheel bearing assembly bolts, etc. 

Also if anyone has tackled this job I'd be grateful for any pointers or advice.

TIA

3 hours ago, scottalej2 said:

Both my rear wheel bearings need replacing

 

That immediately raised a suspicion with me.

 

Who says they both need replacing and on what grounds? Have you experienced any problems?

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

 

That immediately raised a suspicion with me.

 

Who says they both need replacing and on what grounds? Have you experienced any problems?

 

Noisy, and have play in them. Should I wait until the wheels fall off? 🙂

I did mine a couple of months ago. Pretty straight forward job, but yes there are some things worth mentioning when doing this on 4x4. I have a pretty well equipped garage with a scissor lift, so pretty easy. If u have epb you will need vcds to retract the epb brakes. Some use 9v battery, but its really your choice. Also on 4x4 you will need to disassemble the rear wheel bearing housing and lower the bottom suspension braclet that holds the spring. Should use special mcpherson spring release tool, but clamps will work. Anyway, the spring has to come off to release the wheel bearing housing in order to push out the rear axle. You will not gain access to whell bearing bolts without this step. The lower bolt on the suspension must also come loose and that is only available once the spring is out... Anyway, when all this is done, removing the 3 or 4 wheel bearing bolts is easy. Sometimes the wheel bearing itself is pretty stuck caused by rust and corrosion. I used a slidehammer to shock retract the wheel bearing. A special tool yes. Once out, clean and lube before refitting new bearing. And now the fun part starts to assemble the lower suspension strut bolt and the spring. Without a mcpherson compression tool, you will have to use a hydraulic car jack or something similar to press the lower rear control arm back in place to fit the new stretch bolt onto control arm and wheel bearing housing. I used a gearbox jack, others use a normal  hydraulic jack. Your choice. When all is done, do not tighten those bolts yet, since you have to tighten to specs when car is situated in proper ride height. Use a torque wrench and tighten to specs. Now, assemble brakes, caliper etc and youre done. 

If youre not equipped with tools to tighten bolts to specs, tighten in unladen position and able to take out the springs, I would actually consider to get it done at your local indy shop 🙂 On a 4x4 it is definately more work involved than on a std 2wd car.