This comes under the diagnostics/electrical umbrella, so thought I'd link the post here and see!

 

Would appreciate any and all help  

 

 

You are looking to complicate things with sexy tools and issues when you should always start with the basics.

 

a) you did not reply to ApertureS's excellent post with basic battery voltage readings

b) have you considered that there might be more than one issue any of which might or might not be related (including those basic and very basic error codes).

 

Follow  ApertureS's post for battery voltages [ ETA: I prefer voltge reading with a handheld multimeter, probes on battery terminal posts for reading but each to their own ] - I always start with the battery and it's state of charge.  The battery doesn't have to be at the end of it's life from a 2020 car in 2024 but that depends on the level of use. abuse and neglect it has been subject to.

 

Sometimes just driving the car even on by doing a motorway run in the day time (at night more electric is used) will not be sufficient to recharge the battery enough let alone anywhere near fully or as fully as it can get.  Then an appropriate battery charger maintainer is need to fully recharge the battery (or as much as it can).  This is best done at lower amperage charging (say 4-amps or below) after reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions,  To get the battery fully charged will take a long time but if required it can be done in two lots of charging as soon as possible to each time.

 

Or as you don't know the history of the battery you may prefer to (perhaps prematurely) replace it with a new  battery and 'code' it in as required.  On a modern car a battery has to be very low in charge not to start the car but may be recoverable for more good service life.

 

To fully reliably diagnosis electric and engine starting issues you need, or at least are best, to have  the battery in a good state of charge, a battery in a low state of charge can hinder diagnosis, and very often the state of battery charge can be the problem or partially the problem.

 

Just having the scan tool plugged in will drop the battery reading from it.

 

Personally I'd not suggest leaving the doors open to dry out particularly if cabin lights are left on but also the computer programs might not be at rest.

 

Try all of above, clear any error codes and do another reading and report back.

 

ETA: Whatever scan tool you use you need to be sure that it's appropriate to VW and your model and year of car and that the program for this is fully up to date, don't assume anything if you've borrowed the scanner.

 

Edited 11 September, 20241 yr by nta16
ETA:

On 11/09/2024 at 23:04, nta16 said:

You are looking to complicate things with sexy tools and issues when you should always start with the basics.

 

a) you did not reply to ApertureS's excellent post with basic battery voltage readings

b) have you considered that there might be more than one issue any of which might or might not be related (including those basic and very basic error codes).

 

Follow  ApertureS's post for battery voltages [ ETA: I prefer voltge reading with a handheld multimeter, probes on battery terminal posts for reading but each to their own ] - I always start with the battery and it's state of charge.  The battery doesn't have to be at the end of it's life from a 2020 car in 2024 but that depends on the level of use. abuse and neglect it has been subject to.

 

Sometimes just driving the car even on by doing a motorway run in the day time (at night more electric is used) will not be sufficient to recharge the battery enough let alone anywhere near fully or as fully as it can get.  Then an appropriate battery charger maintainer is need to fully recharge the battery (or as much as it can).  This is best done at lower amperage charging (say 4-amps or below) after reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions,  To get the battery fully charged will take a long time but if required it can be done in two lots of charging as soon as possible to each time.

 

Or as you don't know the history of the battery you may prefer to (perhaps prematurely) replace it with a new  battery and 'code' it in as required.  On a modern car a battery has to be very low in charge not to start the car but may be recoverable for more good service life.

 

To fully reliably diagnosis electric and engine starting issues you need, or at least are best, to have  the battery in a good state of charge, a battery in a low state of charge can hinder diagnosis, and very often the state of battery charge can be the problem or partially the problem.

 

Just having the scan tool plugged in will drop the battery reading from it.

 

Personally I'd not suggest leaving the doors open to dry out particularly if cabin lights are left on but also the computer programs might not be at rest.

 

Try all of above, clear any error codes and do another reading and report back.

 

ETA: Whatever scan tool you use you need to be sure that it's appropriate to VW and your model and year of car and that the program for this is fully up to date, don't assume anything if you've borrowed the scanner.

 

 

 

You'll be able to see my main reply on the other post. I managed to get it sorted, but I'm still reasonably suprised that leaving the doors open for a day killed the battery. My understanding was that it should have been able to take a lot more abuse, being a beefy stop/start EFB... Still, replaced with a genuine VW battery, and everything checks out.

 

I've had no electrical issues since, and the car has since covered around 3,000 miles. I'm keeping an eye on it, but it seems to be behaving!

 

What didn't help was the lack of anywhere that could code in the new battery, as ODIS was required, but that's another story...

 

Thanks for reporting back.

 

VW don't make many parts, the battery included.  As for it running out of power it's the same as having a 15 gallon tank with only half a litre of fuel in it and going on a journey, the further you go the more the likelihood of running out.

 

You have covered my two car hobbyhorses, the great importance of the state of charge and health of the car's battery, particularly on modern cars with all their electronics and computer programs.  They don't like a lower state of charge and can cause all sorts of issues, even before getting dash warning lights and messages and well before any engine starting issues.  Battery state of charge has always been a basic requirement and something to check.  Car batteries are the most oversold car part and particularly now with modern cars and drivers/owners and often prematurely replaced when they can often be successfully be recharged to give much more life by using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer with reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions.

 

Second is owners and professionals reading instructs like the car's Owner's Manual, particularly professionals who often think they already know something but have it wrong because of not checking.  For one-touch window did you and/or the indie garage read the Owner's Manual for what might need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery.

 

Hopefully you are now fully sorted and the new battery properly 'coded' in (one auto-electrician was reported on here to have enter 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (pretty bad the VW program allows this really).

 

Even now you have a new battery I would still advise you if you are keeping the car long to some time later invest in an appropriate battery charger maintainer and when required (usually not very often) using it to do preventative recharges to extended the life of the present battery a long time and save all this hassle again.  Just one example other units and providers are available. - Ring RSC900 - 900 Series 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html

 

Good luck.

 

I really should dig out my CTEK charger then...

 

Some years ago, we had a battery for our A3 that was incorrectly coded in by Halfords. This led to a bunch of electrical gremlins (random loss of wipers, horn, locking, lights, etc), and after two years of tearing everything apart, the problem was found. 

 

I don't believe the Indie checked the window, however the are hugely respected near me, and I do trust them fully. They fitted me in at short notice, so I suppose things are overlooked!

 

I wasn't sure if the "correct" OE battery was PowerCo (VW-owned), Varta or what, so just decided to get one with a VW part number on it.

 

I've learnt my lesson with regards to keeping all the doors open! However, as the car now needs a thorough interior clean, do you have any suggestions as to how I can do the entire interior, without risking a repeat of last time? Keeping it on charge whilst cleaning isn't really an option (and I would have though shouldn't be needed!)

Edited 1 October, 20241 yr by BluevRS245

CTEK are alright, overpriced to me and I prefer something with a needle or numbers to be able to judge or follow progress rather than different coloured LED but the CTEK (if appropriate to EFB) should be fine.  A 2, 3 or 4 amp charger is generally better than a 5 amps but of course takes longer (to fully) charge the battery, a 5 amp is generally better than an 8 amp but of course takes longer.

 

If the battery has been correctly coded then you shouldn't, barring accidents or forgetfulness or extreme over use/abuse of the battery need to think about needing to use the charger at least this side of winter or longer or much longer.  Depends on your use when driving and if you're a heavy user of electric when the engine isn't running so alternator not doing its job.  I saw a chap with a Jag XJ on the coldest day of last winter stranded on the grass verge of a reasonable busy road, he told me he knew the battery charge wasn't great, yet he'd started the car at his work at 5 am sat in it with his boss with the heater and heated seats and more electrics on during their break yet thought he could make it home after his shift.  By coincidence I had my multimeter with me (don't ask why as it's yet another moan about my wife's 2015 VW Fabia!) and his battery gave the lowest reading I've ever seen, I even checked the multimeter with a button battery to be sure as it was so cold and it showed what I was expecting,, there was no way back for that XJ battery.

 

You should have no problem cleaning the whole interior whilst listening to the radio if you want and sidelights, if your battery is in a reasonable state of charge which yours should be.

 

I always fully charge a new battery before fitting it, or as soon after fitting as possible, that way you know you started at full which gives a bigger margin for a bit longer and a point of reference if you want or need to check things a bit later (say check alternator or drain during that period if the battery "died suddenly without any warning", as my neighbour said his did on his Citigo last week.  (£242 battery and fitting and hopefully correct coding from RAC Homestart).

 

Good luck.

 

There should be a Viz character of you and your battery charging multi-meter carrying antics!

 

I bet the AA man you accosted (when you once again just happened to be carrying a multi-meter to visit your wife at here work) refuses call outs from your area now.

28 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I bet the AA man you accosted (when you once again just happened to be carrying a multi-meter to visit your wife at here work) refuses call outs from your area now.

accosted - Cambridge Dictionary - "accost verb [ T often passive ]" . . .  "to go up to or stop and speak to someone in a threatening way"

 

Do you want to change that word, I have never accosted any AA or other breakdown or recovery personnel - and it wouldn't have been possible as I wasn't present when he AA arrived with the XJ owner and no breakdown company was called out to my wife's Fabia just me, she chose the car but I have to sort it out when it plays up and goes wrong.  Having to walk 2 miles what tool or tools would you have taken based on the basic information given knowing you regularly alternate use of remote key fobs and change batteries before they run down too much and synchronise the keyblades - and I very much doubted there'd be anything wrong wit the car battery!

 

It's the word that your neighbours would use if they make a mistake thinking that the coast is clear to for them to open their bonnet to check the fluid levels!

 

I bet they phone around their Whatsapp group first!!!

Gentlemen…

@nta16 was making some valid and interesting points! I will admit, your last reply did make me laugh @J.R. but unless you can offer me the same level of help and wisdom, leave him alone 😂

Wisdom?

 

Hmmm.........................

 

No, I'm afraid I cannot offer you that level so will abide by your request, good luck with solving your problem.

On 01/10/2024 at 22:24, J.R. said:

Wisdom?

 

Hmmm.........................

 

No, I'm afraid I cannot offer you that level so will abide by your request, good luck with solving your problem.

Ah! @J.R., sometimes your delightful espiègle does not find a welcome, non?

It is fortunate (and sometimes unfortunate) that those we speak to are often not all who hear us.