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How long do your tyres last?

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I got my IV new last October and it's done just over 20k miles now on the Pirelli P7 tyres. The still look like they have some miles left though the wear markers in the tread on the fronts are nearly at the level of the tread.

What a shame you never put the fronts to the rear and rear to front at 10,000-15,000 miles and then you might of got 30,000 miles out of them.

Edited by Ootohere

  • Author
5 minutes ago, Ootohere said:

What a shame you never put the fronts to the rear and rear to front at 10,000-15,000 miles and then you might of got 30,000 miles out of them.

There's no point. The four tyres wouldnt last any longer that way.

No but you would be replacing 4 tyres, maybe running with a bit more tread than you are away to be on the fronts unless you replace.

 

Then the fitters will be telling you the usual that they have to put the new ones on the rear which means those rears go to the front.

That is why people do rotate, or do front to rear swaps.

Especially new with Hybrids or EV,s if fronts and rears come in the same size. 

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Ootohere said:

No but you would be replacing 4 tyres, maybe running with a bit more tread than you are away to be on the fronts unless you replace.

 

Then the fitters will be telling you the usual that they have to put the new ones on the rear which means those rears go to the front.

That is why people do rotate, or do front to rear swaps.

Especially new with Hybrids or EV,s if fronts and rears come in the same size. 

It's a leased company vehicle so the leasing company decide when the tyres get changed. I'm not buggering about with a jack rotating the tyres. And I've never had fitters tell me new ones have to go on the back (it is generally safer though as it means you're less likely to lose the rear end in a corner).

24 minutes ago, mccririck said:

There's no point. The four tyres wouldnt last any longer that way.


Normally they do last longer, because in UK we have roundabouts, and left handed junctions are generally tighter lines than turning right.   Therefore it is normal to find left front wears most and right rear wears least.

 

So if you switch around tyres (and they are not directional like P7s), then can get good mileage.  On my car (over 65k miles and 6 years old, which is about 35k miles on summer P7s, other 30k on winter tyres), Each spring the least worn goes on front left, the most worn back right and my factory P7s all still have 3.5-4mm of tread, so are comfortably heading towards 50k miles.

 

If Op thinks replacing 2 tyres every 20k miles is better than replacing 4 every 50k miles then I disagree.

.

Edited by SurreyJohn

  • Author
13 minutes ago, SurreyJohn said:


Normally they do last longer, because in UK we have roundabouts, and left handed junctions are generally tighter lines than turning right.   Therefore it is normal to find left front wears most and right rear wears least.

 

So if you switch around tyres (and they are not directional like P7s), then can get good mileage.  On my car (over 65k miles and 6 years old, about 35k miles on summer P7s, other 30k on winter tyres), Each spring the least worn goes on front left, the most worn back right and my factory P7s all still have 3.5-4mm of tread, so are comfortably heading towards 45-50k miles.

 

If Op thinks replacing 2 tyres every 20k miles is better than replacing 4 every 47k miles then I disagree

I think my tyres will last a few thousand miles more. The way you drive will affect tyre longevity more than rotating tyres imo. It's also not easy to rotate tyres when you have no spare

 

btw you're not going to make 4 last 47k miles if the fronts wear out after 20k. The rears would likely last 40k so rotating would give you the low 30s I would have thought.

Edited by mccririck

Last month I replaced all four tyres on mine, 46k miles from a set of Michelin Primacy 4. The fronts slightly more worn than the rears.

 

They were down to about 3.5mm tread left but decided to replace all as I had an unrepairable puncture near the sidewall in the right rear and with winter approaching thought a new set of boots was worth it.

 

  • Author
38 minutes ago, SteveTheElder said:

Last month I replaced all four tyres on mine, 46k miles from a set of Michelin Primacy 4. The fronts slightly more worn than the rears.

 

They were down to about 3.5mm tread left but decided to replace all as I had an unrepairable puncture near the sidewall in the right rear and with winter approaching thought a new set of boots was worth it.

 

Do you rotate?

@mccririck Just pull into Kwikfit or whoever does the tyres then and they will seek approval to change the tyres pre frosts.

If they say need new tyres and just on the front they go happy days.   No hit on your pocket.  Happy safe driving days. 

 

Being a business users is so good, a PHEV for the BIK and no maintenance costs or need to worry about tyre wear other than keep an eye on pressures and condition.

The Social Divide right there.

 

I am the same.  Drive a car Leased From Mobility.  I can 'Get tyres fitted if tyres are needed' and the Kwik Fit fitters are not stupid in Forfar as they know Front Wheel drive, 

wintery weather or rain you need traction, steering, braking from the front.

 

But then first week i get a new car i fit All Season Tyres (@ATS Euromaster) and store the crap ones like the Continental Contract 2 Self Seal on the Alhambra, or the Michelin Primacy 4 that came on my Electric Corsa or the Goodyear Eagle F1 Sports until they go on 3 years later when the car goes back and to auction. The fresh new ECO tyres are back on. 

No way am i messing about on the ECO crap manufacturers fit.

 

All seasons are on and when the snow comes the better in the snow all seasons will be on. 

Just because if roads are open i like to be able to drive them on my side of the road. 

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Edited by Ootohere

6 hours ago, mccririck said:

Do you rotate?

No, not any more. I used to in my younger days but when I got a girlfriend, now wife, there were too many distractions 😉

55K miles on a set of Hankook Ventus Prime 2 which had already done an unknown mileage before I bought the vehicle. Vehicle is 4x4 which increases tyre wear.

 

Probably 10K miles of that were done towing very overloaded trailers beyond the rated towing capacity.

 

The tyres were regularly rotated and I would measure and record the tread depth in 3 places across the width to fine tune the pressures dependant on what corner they were next being fitted to.

 

By the end they were all uniformly worn down to the legal limit by that time I had become fed up with comments from well meaning but ignorant people telling me my tyres were bald.

 

I fitted the same tyres as replacements except they are now Prime 3, A rating for wet grip, I fitted them myself with my manual tyre changer and tyre levers, I respected the positioning of the red and yellow dots and as a consequence they needed no balancing.

 

The key to longevity is watching the wear like a hawk within the first few thousand miles and taking corrective action, the new tyres have moulded in depressions right on the wear edges at 0.5 and 1mm depth which makes this much easier but it still needs to be done in conjunction with the tread depth gradient measurements.

Edited by J.R.

Edinburgh /Lothian & out and about, different roads and surfaces from other regions maybe.  PHEV different torque though the front wheels from other drivetrains. 

Its just how things are. Location location location. 

Your doing a lot better than my IV. Just got 12k out of my front P7s. 

 

Weirdly I don't excessively wheel spin. But they must slip a bit when applying power. Probably due to motor torque and battery weight in back 

The certainly slip / spin a bit more before an ASR / TC acts to cut power or nip the brakes than the likes of a AWD / Part time AWD with Haldex which detects spin quickly and has the rears then giving drive / traction. 

For some reason @J.R. seems to think a 4x4 increases wear.

 

Without a central differential it sure does.

 

It will reduce the wear the front tyres see compared to a FWD model but the overall wear per unit distance divided by number of tyres will increase.

 

Everytime I reverse out of a parking place on lock and feel the slight snatch as the pre-emptively engaged Haldex releases that is extra tyre wear from the 4x4 system.

OK. I think a load of guff and that comes from my decades of driving Jimnys with Rear Wheel drive and selecting front wheel drive, or locked AWD, and various part time AWD systems.

But then that was always tyres fitted with plenty tread to start with and suitable for what ever conditions.  Then really they are maybe not on that long as far as mileage as always getting change about.

4 hours ago, Novascape said:

Your doing a lot better than my IV. Just got 12k out of my front P7s. 

 

Weirdly I don't excessively wheel spin. But they must slip a bit when applying power. Probably due to motor torque and battery weight in back 

Sounds like you should have swapped them to the back when fronts down to about 4.5mm tread.

 

But P7s (and many Eco biased summer tyres) can slip in wet when below about +12c (nearer +5c in dry), and of course in UK rain is usually below this temperature from September to early May.  
 

  • Author
11 hours ago, Novascape said:

Your doing a lot better than my IV. Just got 12k out of my front P7s. 

 

Weirdly I don't excessively wheel spin. But they must slip a bit when applying power. Probably due to motor torque and battery weight in back 

Well there is traction control so you wont get huge amounts of wheelspin. But heavy acceleration and heavy braking will wear tyres out faster. All that extra power that the IV brings means more wear if you are using the extra power regularly.

Edited by mccririck

  • Author
On 08/09/2024 at 06:12, Ootohere said:

@mccririck Just pull into Kwikfit or whoever does the tyres then and they will seek approval to change the tyres pre frosts.

If they say need new tyres and just on the front they go happy days.   No hit on your pocket.  Happy safe driving days. 

 

Being a business users is so good, a PHEV for the BIK and no maintenance costs or need to worry about tyre wear other than keep an eye on pressures and condition.

The Social Divide right there.

 

I am the same.  Drive a car Leased From Mobility.  I can 'Get tyres fitted if tyres are needed' and the Kwik Fit fitters are not stupid in Forfar as they know Front Wheel drive, 

wintery weather or rain you need traction, steering, braking from the front.

 

But then first week i get a new car i fit All Season Tyres (@ATS Euromaster) and store the crap ones like the Continental Contract 2 Self Seal on the Alhambra, or the Michelin Primacy 4 that came on my Electric Corsa or the Goodyear Eagle F1 Sports until they go on 3 years later when the car goes back and to auction. The fresh new ECO tyres are back on. 

No way am i messing about on the ECO crap manufacturers fit.

 

All seasons are on and when the snow comes the better in the snow all seasons will be on. 

Just because if roads are open i like to be able to drive them on my side of the road. 

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I never bother with all season tyres to be honest. I tend to do about 25k miles a year and summer tyres are fine in most conditions I encounter. Sure all season tyres would give more grip in the colder months but I just dont find it to be a big enough problem that I feel the need to get them changed. If I lived in the hills maybe I'd think differently.

11 hours ago, Ootohere said:

OK. I think a load of guff and that comes from my decades of driving Jimnys with Rear Wheel drive and selecting front wheel drive, or locked AWD, and various part time AWD systems.

 

Does the Jimny have a centre differential or is it simply a later iteration of the LJ80, SJ410, SJ413 bloodline?

 

Without one you should not engage 4WD on dry tarmac as I'm sure you are aware, the resultant transmission wind up can only be resolved by tyre scrub = increased tyre wear, the Haldex system has some nice tricks like momentarily disengaging the clutch (can be seen in live data) but the same scrub and additional tyre wear is there, people dont notice because with spirited driving the front tyres will indeed do more miles than on a FWD variant but the overall tyre wear across all tyres will be higher.

 

That said I'm very pleased with having got 55k miles out of the last set, I could in theory have got a bit more on a FWD variant if I had avoided wheelspin but I would not have been comfortable driving in wet conditions with the tyres right down to the legal limit and beyond, with the 4WD it was a walk in the park.

@J.R. There are lots of things people should not do. That does not mean they are not going to.

I ran them with locked front hubs. Instead of vacuum select hubs.front selected in wet, cold snow and sometimes in the dry.  Detroit locker on the rear. 

I have run various AWD & 4x4,s for many years. Usually as tow barges for small 4x4s.

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Edited by Ootohere

Me too.

 

I bet you didn't commute to work for 2 weeks in FWD (4WD engaged) only with the propshaft removed though!

 

The 84 Shogun I moved up to had auto-reverse front freewheeling hubs. You could really feel the difference through the steering when the front driveshafts were turning and when they were not.

Edited by J.R.

You would lose your bet. Actually there are many things you would lose bets on. 

 

I just sold my Shogun this year. 

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Edited by Ootohere

So I am a guff spouting loser to you then, good to know where I stand, I won't reciprocate.

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