Anyone got any ideas on what to look at ? My scout was driving fine this morning til I turned it off then went out to go out again. There's no lights on the instrument cluster and nothing from the starter just a click from the relays inside the car. This is the 3rd problem in 3 week. It cut out and wouldn't start a couple of week back. Then did the same as its doing now but seemed to fix itself over night. This time I'm at my witts end with it 

The first thing I would do is check the battery is good by substitution

The next thing I would do is check phyically and with a multimeter that the connections from the battery are being made. This means +12V and return (0V) are made at each point from the battery to the point of use. Check for corrosion at joints, for broken and corroded wires including the insulation over wires near connections. Investigate any wires that show black rather than copper coloured inside. Check for open fuses at the battery distribution fusebox and then downstream fuses, particularly at the relays used for distribution and relief contacts. 

If you are not happy with electrical fault finding then an auto electrician would not charge too much.

 

My guess is that you have failing connection caused by an intermittent damaged wire or corrosion.

I've a lad coming to plug it in to see if we can find anything failing that we're going to get multimeter on it and chase wires. My 3rd skoda and the only one giving me problems 🙈

Edited 3 October, 20241 yr by flynndog

Lads been out and reckons it's the clocks ? Next question is which is the part no I need to find the same is it the 1z0920943d no ?

Get yours repaired?

 

https://www.autotronics.co.uk/product/1z0920943d-skoda-octavia-ii-2008-2013-instrument-cluster-repair

7 minutes ago, Golf-Fiend said:

Get yours repaired?

 

https://www.autotronics.co.uk/product/1z0920943d-skoda-octavia-ii-2008-2013-instrument-cluster-repair

I've thought of it but at that price it's cheaper to buy a set from a breaker and get a pal to code them in. I'm just wondering if the letter on the end of the code no I've got will make much difference 🤔 

The instrument cluster cannot be coded in using VCDS unless it's a brand new cluster in a virgin state.

 

The cluster needs to be coded to the immobiliser with the code being read from the old cluster.

 

I had my instrument cluster replaced. I had to take the replacement cluster and car from here in Leeds to @Eddie-NL in Norwich as he was the only person on the planet who seemed to know how to do it. He had some special kit that can clone the old cluster to the replacement.

 

Kev.

Copied from somewhere to a text file by me (probably Briskoda).

 

If you do fit one, you'll also need the immobiliser reprogramming and the milage correcting on a second hand clusters - Ed is your man for this but quite a distance from Newcastle

 

From UK petrol models I think the full part numbers are as follows but you should check before committing to buy.

SW: 01xx

1Z0920943B non-vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943D)

1Z0920943C vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943D)

 

SW: 03xx

1Z0920943F non-vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943G)

1Z0920943H vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943J)

 

SW: 04xx

1Z0920943K non-vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943M)

1Z0920943L vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943N)

 

SW: 06xx

1Z0920943Q non-vRS) (Diesel version is 1Z0920943S)

1Z0920943R vRS (Diesel version is 1Z0920943T)

 

Just to add a little more information about SW versions.

01xx - Doesn't support premium bluetooth icons, so you end up with empty squares instead of icons when used be newer bluetooth modules, not updatable.

03xx - Is a version I know little about, not seen any reports it can be updated. May or may not support premium BT icons.

04xx - Can be updated to 06xx using the correct tools (it looses the needle configuration during the upgrade which needs restoring). I believe it should support premium BT icons.

06xx - Latest version is 0608 which supports PLA2.0, direct TPMS, refuel volume etc.

47 minutes ago, tetley said:

The instrument cluster cannot be coded in using VCDS unless it's a brand new cluster in a virgin state.

 

The cluster needs to be coded to the immobiliser with the code being read from the old cluster.

 

I had my instrument cluster replaced. I had to take the replacement cluster and car from here in Leeds to @Eddie-NL in Norwich as he was the only person on the planet who seemed to know how to do it. He had some special kit that can clone the old cluster to the replacement.

 

Kev.

It was a snap on reader he used this afternoon reckons he'll be able to do it with that 🤔🤷‍♂️. If he can't would your man be able to do it if I sent both the new (used)  cluster with my old faulty one ?

18 minutes ago, flynndog said:

It was a snap on reader he used this afternoon reckons he'll be able to do it with that 🤔🤷‍♂️. If he can't would your man be able to do it if I sent both the new (used)  cluster with my old faulty one ?

 

TBH I don't know.

 

I contacted @Eddie-NL via PM through this forum. Problem is he rarely logs in nowadays.

 

He does have an Ebay site edward1975.

 

I had to have my cluster replaced as it was beyond repair. As @Golf-Fiend said above using an online repair service probably is the cheapest option.

 

If it was only LED's I'd have offered to do it.

 

I'll drop him a pm see if he gets it. As for my clocks there's nothing at all coming on no lights whatsoever no needle sweep just the little car showing doors open then it turns straight back off 

Where in West Yorks are you.

 

I've got VCDS so can read fault codes and have messed about quite a bit with clusters, I'm just not in @Eddie-NL 's league.

 

 

 

Cheers,

Kev.

 

 

8 hours ago, tetley said:

Where in West Yorks are you.

 

I've got VCDS so can read fault codes and have messed about quite a bit with clusters, I'm just not in @Eddie-NL 's league.

 

 

 

Cheers,

Kev.

 

 

Brighouse/cleckheaton area looks well that pod 

If you PM an address and telephone I could pop over Sunday afternoon. I need to some mileage on my car, bought it new and still only done 44521 miles in it.

 

I can put VCDS on the car and at least get a list of all the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's).

 

If I put the scan on here then others could at least see everything that is an issue.

 

Kev.

 

 

Oh thank you. Ive sent a pm with my number bud 👍👌

OK. Be over Sundat afternoon.

Just had another look to see if any miracle has happened and the headlight and indicator sign icons work 🤷‍♂️

8 hours ago, flynndog said:

Just had another look to see if any miracle has happened and the headlight and indicator sign icons work

That's what happenned to me when the humidy was high after days of rain and condesation in the car. Left the windows open on a sunny day and everthing fixed.

9 hours ago, pikpilot said:

That's what happenned to me when the humidy was high after days of rain and condesation in the car. Left the windows open on a sunny day and everthing fixed.

It's as though weather has affected it to be fair but need to get it sorted the Mrs is going mad with me putting the dogs in the "family car" with the scout been poorly 😅

I've seen @flynndog today and completed a VCDS scan.

 

The scan has been posted in the diagnostics sub forum here:-

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527075-vcds-scan-whats-the-diagnosis/

 

Personally, I am not proficient enough with VCDS to be certain of any diagnosis. Hopefully, someone better than me can draw a conclusion. Clearly, it's not just some damp LED's.

 

Kev.

@flynndog It isn't the instrument cluster. Looking at the scan:-

 

Address 17: Instruments (J285)       Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1
   Part No SW: 1Z0 920 943 D    HW: 1Z0 920 943 D
   Component: KOMBI         H20 0106  
   Serial number: 00000000000000
   Coding: 720D00
   Shop #: WSC 73430 031 12345
   ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04040
   ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_SK35.rod
   VCID: 3A2D25542CD3487A517-806E

No fault code found.

 

It's one of the few components not indicating a fault.

Will keep a close eye on any ideas what it could be. 

Only having 12 at the battery isn't ideal, but shouldn't stop it lighting up. 

 

Is it locking and unlocking from the remote?

 

Simple stuff first, always - check the battery connections and grounds, charge the battery, check the maxi fuses closely for damage, check all other fuses. Turn the key and give the top of the dashboard above the clocks a bang. Try the spare key.

Locks and unlocks off key immobiliser light on and off as it should. Battery connections are good only have 1 key tried the tap trick and even stripped clocks out to check plug all seems OK 🤷‍♂️. 

Stripped fuse box out water had got in cleaned it but too rusted so put another on from another car we know was good and still the same any ideas