Picked up a 1.4 BBZ Fabia elegance 2005 (55 plate) with circle fog lamps. Loving the extra power from the +1 cylinder and about 50hp more than my previous ones.

 

I want to service it since it came with no history and the oil was practically empty - topped up 1.2l and it still needed a bit more. I used the 5w30 Quantam oil 504.00 . I hope thats fine for now. 

 

Service parts

Oil

Oil Filter

Spark Plugs

Cabin Filter

Coil packs (engine feels like its running muted) 

 

Please feel free to add any links/ part numbers/Amazon links it would be a great help. 

 

The car didn't come with much but it did drive fine. I am looking to fix it up to keep then sell my red bean to a family friend. 

 

It has front wing damage and bumper damage where one of the fog lights is broken, also the passenger switch does not operate the window, but the driver-side ones work for both sides. I could try blowing on the connector because that worked last time. 

 

The car is a wonderful metallic grey, with alloys, heated seats, leather parts like the steering wheel, the gear gaitor, and the brake sleeve. Fancy. Also cruise control! but the EPC and Engine management light came on as soon as I activated it?

 

I'm chuffed its a bit faster, 100bhp is a treat coming from 54 so hopefully it's punchier on small roads and smoother on long trips. 

 

I'll post a photo when I get my free monthly car wash and get the windows tinted again.

An engine air filter is a LOT more important than a cabin filter!

 

You have to redline it in every gear to access the full 100 bhp effect, also thrashing it will keep it sweet and keep the cat clean. Run it on premium petrol if you want it to be reliable.

Clutch switch failure might be the cruise control problem, VCDS should tell you what is.

 

I wouldn't replace coilpacks unless failed, and keep at least one of the old ones if you do swap them out. Pattern parts might be more prone to failure than old originals (if originals are what they are).

 

Consider replacing the oil vapour separator on the back of the block, they tend to clog up over the years. 

 

Check the brake servo vac hose carefully by feel as well as visually.

 

See what pressure rating the fuel filter is, some people find that replacements with wrong rating have been fitted. Stamped into rear face usually, just in front of right rear wheel, camera phone may be best to view at arms length.

 

 

 

@sepulchrave Yeah I have realised you have to punch it to get the power out.

 

And @Breezy_Pete do you have a link for what I should pick up to get the VCDS setup going? I should have gotten this sorted on my first VAG car but time flies. 3 Fabias in, all mk1, and man I don't think there is a hatchback better than this budget and reliability-wise. 

 

 

Alas, the brake servo hose was checked already, even under, and ran my fingers across it all, no cracks, I saw on my 1,2 that there were these rubber hoses attached, does anyone know what they are called? 

 

Oil vapor separator I will have to find out about. And yeah the fuel filter I will have to find out where it is and check. I've read somewhere they don't need to be changed this early.  

 

but yeah Engine management light and EPC when I turn on Cruise control. It lags at low speeds one EPC is on but after I switch him on and off it is all good, only the CEL light remains.

 

Thinking of getting the plate ST04 RMY.

 

I will be opening up the top to check the spark plug's health, air filter, and how the plugs are looking. Although I am not sure of how to check the health of a coil pack.

 

A neighbor had some fault codes up - P0401 - EGR insufficient flow and P0106 MAP / barometric pressure circuit range/ performance. 

 

Had them cleared and they haven't come back on, the car is driving as it should I cant see or feel any issues. 

 

Will inspect the EGR and MAP sensor today hopefully. 

Start with the throttle-body end of the steel EGR pipe.

Nothing worth inspecting with the MAP. The only bit accessible after removing it is the intake temperature sensor part. 

I believe for this I’m unscrewing 4 Allen key bolts I think 5mm. 
 

Will I need to replace the seal once I have it lifted or will it be okay to recycle it? 
 

I will try to get at it this week. 
 

Currently filled with Tesco premium 99 fuel. Giving it ‘the full beans’ here and there. It’s managing it fine, I think the car was sitting for a while. 
 

 

Got the top off and this is what the intake looks like. 
 

 

looks darker than my shadow bloody hell. 
 

going to use some oven cleaner and a toothbrush

 

Hard to tell from that angle, but exit of EGR pipe doesn't look blocked?

Plenty of scope for soot removal generally though.

 

I've given one part a clean. Item 2 on the diagram.

 

So, I've cleaned the Throttle Valve control element, also known as the Throttle Body (TB).  Below a user suggests it needs readapting. I guess this is the same as resetting it?

 

The comment below shows the VCDS instructions to do so. 

.

Clean Throttle Body - Oven Pride and Toothbrush - then wipe with baby wipes.

 

 

EPC light is coming on randomly, and CEL is still on, I will have to get an OBD scanner for now to keep on top of the codes. 

 

 

Removed the EGR for a small clean and inspection, noticed there was a blanking plate so I popped a hole in it and set it all back up.

 

The car read some new fault codes, twice as many as before.

 

1.4 16v 100hp BBZ Engine Petrol 2005

P0402 - EGR Excessive flow (present before removing the blanking plate)

P0106 - MAP Sensor Range/ Performance problem (present before removing the blanking plate)

P0407 - EGR Valve Pos. Sensor B - Low input

P0403 - EGR Circuit Malfunction

P0170 - Fuel Trim Bank 1 Malfunction 

 

I read the codes with the ELM, went for a 20m drive and the car just crapped out 10 mins in, not starting properly, revs dropping and then staying at 1100rpm, after about a 5 min wait the car was back to normal, I suspect my ELM OBD reader is messing with the system a bit too much so that’s going in the bin soon. 

 

Here’s a photo of the Gasket/ EGR Blanking plate. The EPC light has gone off on its own but the CEL light is still on, I would need to get it scanned with a more reliable device to see what’s going on. I will endeavour to out 50-100 miles in before comparing driving experience. Only thing i did notice immediately is that when coasting, the revs drop then hang about at 1100-1200 rpm for very short moment, then it goes to idling rev 600-700. I guess that’s the EGR doing its thing recycling the exhaust gases? 

 

Hopefully I can get the mechanic to scan it for free, although I doubt it. I really don’t wanna use the ELM anymore because it’s been messing up the car on a few occasions now immediately after I use it. 

 

My next course of action is taking any advice then probably changing the EGR component itself with a decent eBay one or the pierbeurg one for £75-100. But I bought the car for £800 so spending more than 10% on one part is a bit funny.  I also need to give it a decent service too so, trying to pinch my pennies where I can. 

Edited 30 October, 20241 yr by SpotnikHTP04

Just unplug it and see if it drives better.

I thought about doing that I can give it a go and take the car for a spin see how it fares.

@sepulchrave It drove without crapping out like it did when I put a regular blanking plate on it ( I will be buying another set and torquing nuts down 25nm). I could get both blanked and non blanked but I am reading the EGR valve is purely for a greener exhaust emission persona?

 

But did about 50 miles motorway and local with the EGR valve unplugged. Doesn’t really skip any beats but I know for sure the car drives better just after I’ve removed the warning signs and drove it for a bit before it comes back on. 

 

With the EGR off and out yesterday I gave it a decent spray with the canned dedicated cleaners. But I remembered that it must be adapted after as with the throttle body (which I haven’t done yet). 

 

A bit annoyed that the warning sign came on as soon as I parked up at home after I bought the car, considering I took it for a spirited test drive before it just hid from me the entire time.. But the car is wonderful, drives so well, sounds gorgeous at 4-6k revs and my partner thinks it sounds like a sports car! 

 

all in all, I think the car won’t sweat if I blank the EGR again... 2 Codes to expect, EGR insufficient or excessive and MAP sensor range/performance issue...

 Fitted new EGR valve with 2 new gaskets

 

Realised that the gasket for the Throttle to EGR pipe is missing. Looking through posts yields this here: 036131550A

 

However, there are loads of different types and I am wondering if there is a list of gaskets I can buy that will fit my 1.4 16v BBZ engine. 

 

Since fitting the New EGR as well as cleaning the throttle body I should have adapted it but I thought I would do that last... I started the car back up... a horrible idle, it's not allowing me to rev at all and it's not responding to my pedal inputs.

 

Leave it a few hours and come back, starts up and only the CEL light is on, Drive it up and down the road then the EPC and ASR lights come on and it roughly idles. Carefully take it back to my house and just park it up. Now looking for the Gasket part number and hoping an adaptation after all this will solve it once and for all.

 

I don't mind disconnecting the EGR but the car is drinking so much fuel and is sitting at 1500 RPM whenever it gets the chance... I have to keep my clutch down to the rpm from finding its way to 1500 even at idle.

 

Some have suspected that the missing gasket at the TB and EGR pipe is causing the rough idle, due to an air leak...

Will look up the gasket PN after eating. That being missing may have been the main problem, big air leak straight into inlet manifold, I'd imagine.

Rectangular section o-ring, from memory, like TB to mani one, but smaller.

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

 

I should have taken more photos but The gasket that goes under [1]  I think is missing.  As for [15] I believe that is missing too but I didn't take a photo so I am not sure what I was meant to be looking at. 

 

 

--------

 

Edit: I've just watched a video of when i removed some parts. I DO have an orange seal [15] in place so maybe it's just the gasket that needs finding. (036131550A)

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by SpotnikHTP04

No gasket between throttle body and manifold?!

Yours doesn't have adaptor pipe 16, does it?

VIN would be handy, or reg number.

 

Not the best photo... But it appears not. 

 

 

Edit: VIN TMBMD46Y654328405

 

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by SpotnikHTP04

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yours doesn't have adaptor pipe 16, does it?

VIN would be handy, or reg number.

TMBMD46Y654328405

Can see the red o-ring between stainless EGR pipe and manifold I think.

Still stuck in mani.

TB to mani one is green, I think, part number coming up.

Red EGR one is 036131550J

TB to mani one is 036133073

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/1/133/133025

I've got both these seals (red and green) in but I guess I could get new ones as a refresher.

 

Then What is left is the SEAL [18] 036131550A. 

03613155