Our 2.0 TDI L&K has now 11 years and 260km. I looked through the maintenance records in detail. While I was scrupulous with fundamentals (filters, brake pads and disks, oil changes, DSG and timinig belt) since I have had it (8 years), I can't find any evidence for anything else. So I am going to do a car refresh. Two goals: Improve driving and vibrations on one hand (zero work on suspension ever), and preempt problems on the other.

 

I would appreciate the forum recommendation on whether I am missing anything critical. What pieces would be important to change after 10y - 260k km if they are still factory originals?

 

Here is my list so far:

NEVER DONE  AND I WILL LIKELY DO:

 

1. Brake fluid
2. Engine Mounts (unclear how important, but hoping it may reduce some engine vibrations at low RPMs)
3. Suspension 
   1. ball joints
   2. control arms
   3. sway end links
   4. shock absorbers
   5. wheel bearings

 

DOUBTING WHETHER IT IS WORTH DOING:

1. Radiation hoses 
2. other plastic pieces on the coolant system
3. Brake lines
4. Wheel refurbishing

 

So, what am I missing from the list? What is a must to refresh after 11y / 260k km?

 

 

PS: The most recent things I have done and when:

 

MAINTENANCE LAST              KM     MONTH 
4 filters and engine oil     244    2024-01
Rear brake disks and pads    235    2023-08
DSG                          213    2022-05
Front brake disks and pads   200    2021-06
Timing belt and water pump   181    2019-12
Battery                             2019-12
Electric tailgate            167    2018-08

 

 

 

Edited 4 December, 20241 yr by xtp77
Minor edit for clarity

PS: I found a list of fluids to change and adding it as a reference

 

• Motor Oil  > Done regularly
• Transmission Fluid > Done with DSG 2y ago
• Brake Fluid
  • > Added to the list
• Engine Coolant (?)
  • No idea > Adding it  to the list
• Power Steering Fluid
  • No idea > Adding it  to the list
• Differential Fluid (?)
  • No idea. Does this car even have a differential? > Adding it  to the list
• Windshield Washer > Done regularly

 

@xtp77

The S2 has electric power steering. So no power steering fluid.

And like in any other front wheel drive car, the differential is integrated in the gearbox. So there is no separate differential fluid (unless you have a 4x4 of course).

BTW: If you really don't know if your car has a differential, I highly doubt whether you should maintain the car yourself...

Edited 6 December, 20241 yr by andrehj

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

My 2012 Superb L&K with 248k km, had a broken down EGR valve last week and had to be replaced, I do recommend however to replace it when it breaks down and not perform preventive maintenance on it. 
For preventing issues with it I add every 10k KM a flacon of injector/EGR cleaner, this is very helpful.

In October I had my rear shock absorbers, rear brakes an battery  replaced.

2 years ago I had injectors, throttle body, aircon pump and cooling fans replaced.

For filters, engine oil, DSG oil, brake fluid I stick to the prescribed maintenance schedule

On 06/12/2024 at 22:21, andrehj said:

@xtp77

The S2 has electric power steering. So no power steering fluid.

And like in any other front wheel drive car, the differential is integrated in the gearbox. So there is no separate differential fluid (unless you have a 4x4 of course).

Thank you for the clarifications!

 

On 06/12/2024 at 22:21, andrehj said:

BTW: If you really don't know if your car has a differential, I highly doubt whether you should maintain the car yourself...

 

Fear not, I wasn't planning on DIY. But I still have to tell the garage what I want to get done beyond a basic maintenance, particularly if I want to be proactive. 

 

Any ideas on what to ask to preempt broken pieces or reduce vibrations are welcome!

8 hours ago, Agent327 said:

For preventing issues with it I add every 10k KM a flacon of injector/EGR cleaner, this is very helpful.

In October I had my rear shock absorbers, rear brakes an battery  replaced.

2 years ago I had injectors, throttle body, aircon pump and cooling fans replaced.

For filters, engine oil, DSG oil, brake fluid I stick to the prescribed maintenance schedule

Thanks for the ideas. Injector cleaner is cheap and easy, will definitely do. The heater fan has become slightly noisier, so may look into that. 

?

Has the Air Condition system ever been serviced / refilled? 

Does the HVAC system get sanitised when the Pollen Filter gets replaced.

 

Do you ever clean / unblock the drains on the bottom of the doors?

Does the Sun Roof get serviced if there is one. runners, seals, drains? 

12 hours ago, Agent327 said:

My 2012 Superb L&K with 248k km, had a broken down EGR valve last week and had to be replaced, I do recommend however to replace it when it breaks down and not perform preventive maintenance on it. 
For preventing issues with it I add every 10k KM a flacon of injector/EGR cleaner, this is very helpful.

Sorry, but that's a contradiction. You state that you use EGR cleaner every 10 k KM, and that this cleaner is helpful, but still the EGR broke down.... Can you explain how that cleaner was helpful?

11 hours ago, andrehj said:

Sorry, but that's a contradiction. You state that you use EGR cleaner every 10 k KM, and that this cleaner is helpful, but still the EGR broke down.... Can you explain how that cleaner was helpful?

Sure, the EGR broke down due to mechanical failure.The valve was no longer functioning. I still need to examine the device though. The good thing is, the EGR was not clogged up with soot, this justifies the use of injector/EGR cleaner. I hope this helps

On 08/12/2024 at 09:02, Ootohere said:

?

Has the Air Condition system ever been serviced / refilled? 

Does the HVAC system get sanitised when the Pollen Filter gets replaced.

 

Do you ever clean / unblock the drains on the bottom of the doors?

Does the Sun Roof get serviced if there is one. runners, seals, drains? 

 

Thanks for the ideas!

1. AirCon serviced, yes regularly, but good to have on the list.
2. HVAC sanitized? I don't even know how to get started on that. I change the pollen filter myself, any references on how to sanitize HVAC?
3. Drains. Not to my knowledge. I didn't even know there were drains on the doors. How much DIY would this be? Any links on how to clean drains?
4. Sunroof. Never done. What would it entail? Changing all the seals? I guess it would make sense to do to preempt damage if water comes in.

 

 

Vacuum and wash with detergent / antibacterial fluid the pollen filter area should be the minimum. 

Air-con Cleaner Spray / Air-con bomb does the job. 

 

Google will get you to vids or guides on cleaning drains.

Be careful if blowing through with an airline.

 

Lubing sunroof runners etc again google.  Search engines. 

 

 

Edited 9 December, 20241 yr by Ootohere

Karoq. 

But so often missed on vehicles with supposed FMDSH.   A full main dealer service history of stuff not done, and owners not told about sun roofs.

23 hours ago, Ootohere said:

Karoq. 

But so often missed on vehicles with supposed FMDSH.   A full main dealer service history of stuff not done, and owners not told about sun roofs.

 

 

I have two cars with sunroof (skoda and sharan) and I wasn't aware. Maybe not told, maybe not paying attention 🤷‍♂️ Thank you for the info, most relevant to what I want to do!

 

In any case, for my reference to do this soon:

 

Maintain Sunroof 

• Main ideas:
   
  • Drains. Clean 1x year
  • Rubber seal. Clean and add glycerol
  • Contour of glass. Clean
  • Rails. Grease 1x year. Special white grease
  • Tip: Avoid driving open sunroof in really bumpy road
• Video with detailed cleaning process: 
• Lubricant grease I bought: https://www.amazon.de/Liqui-Moly-3312-Silicon-Fett-transparent/dp/B00295DBQE/ 
• Unclog drains detail 
   

 

 

And on cleaning the AC system, here are details on how to dismanlte  the ventilation blower (for deep cleaning)

•  AC disinfectation  
•  

All these seem to be in my ballpark of DIY, so I will keep the mechanic for the other parts. I am still not clear on why I should clean up the AC, as there is no smell whatsoever. 

 

 

I also have 4 cars from VW group that has seen their share of repairs, maintenance. My 2 cents is when a car passes beyond 200'km or 160'miles, it is better to do preventive maintenance as you listed than to wait. Because from 200-250'km things start to break down. At least here in norway.

So, I do all my repairs myself in own garage with ****load of tools and a big scissor lift. So, i probably saves a lot of money and time to worry if car will breal down during holiday/vacation trips.

Anyway, on VAG cars, also Skoda as it is a VAG car, from 250'km I would replace the following if I bought a old car with that high mileage in addition to what you have on your list:

1. All suspensions and maybe springs as well with new nuts/bolts and dampers. They will probably fail anytime soon or has already failed but you haven't noticed it

2. Complete dmf and pilot bearing together with crank seal gearbox side. Its a guarantee fail very soon of never replaced. Maybe you have som rattling already?

3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it.

4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve.

5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more.

6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator.

7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter.

8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray)

9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km)

10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them)

11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well.

12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs.

What I would't care about:

Everything that has to do with appearence like styling, rims etc. On a old high mileage car, those things should come as 2nd priority. Worry about what matters 😉

 

 

 

On 07/12/2024 at 21:54, Agent327 said:

My 2012 Superb L&K with 248k km, had a broken down EGR valve last week and had to be replaced, I do recommend however to replace it when it breaks down and not perform preventive maintenance on it. 
For preventing issues with it I add every 10k KM a flacon of injector/EGR cleaner, this is very helpful.

In October I had my rear shock absorbers, rear brakes an battery  replaced.

2 years ago I had injectors, throttle body, aircon pump and cooling fans replaced.

For filters, engine oil, DSG oil, brake fluid I stick to the prescribed maintenance schedule

That shot doesn' t work...but hey, everyone wants to be fooled 😉 Mechanical cleaning works, santa claus doesn't exist....

Thank you so much @rbhelle. This is very very rich, and exactly what I was lookking after.  As I get this done at a mechanic, I need to prioritize which ones to get done and which ones to wait longer. Any ideas are welcome. I do have a couple of follow up questions:

 

Quote

2. Complete dmf and pilot bearing together with crank seal gearbox side. Its a guarantee fail very soon of never replaced. Maybe you have som rattling already?

I have vibration at 1200rpm when the engine is under load, like climbs or overtaking. I have no idea the source, and I thought maybe the engine mounts would minimize it. No particular vibration at idle, so unclear whether is the DMF. If the DMF is going to make the car have less vibration, I will be happy to do it. What do you think?

Quote

1. All suspensions and maybe springs as well with new nuts/bolts and dampers. They will probably fail anytime soon or has already failed but you haven't noticed it

 

Mostly yes, except the springs, I am not sure why would I change them. 

Also, you mention below the stabilisator link from from suspension strut to stabilisator.

Is the stabilisator link not the same or included with the suspension in #1 above?

 

> 3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it.

I will do it if I go after the DMF.

 

For the rest, not many questions, just pasting below my own notes for reference

 

> 4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve.

OK. I will ask the mechanic.

 

> 5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more.

I believe one or two failed. But I don't remember if in this car, or the Sharan. Will check

> 6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator.

Is this not the same or included with the suspension in #1 above?

> 7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter.

Not appicable, FWD.

> 8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray)

Is it worth doing at the same time as DSG maintenance?

> 9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km)

I will ask the mechanic

> 10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them)

I will probably wait on this one, more in repair mode.

> 11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well.

Reactive to this one too.

> 12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs.

I will ask mechanic.

Dmf is a funny thing, because rattling sounds doesn't need to be bad since one can drive many years and thousands of miles with bad dmf. But one can also just drive a couple of thousands miles to total failure. It really depends on how much load you put into your car. E.g.with trailer it can be much sooner, without maybe last long time. Rattling is usually more noticeable when engine is cold and when idling. When hot and under load, not so much, yeah even no rattling at all.

A really bad dmf will certainly most likely give vibrations also when driving, but then we are talking close to total failure and likely gearbox damage.

 

Anti-roll bar link/Swaybar drop link/Stabilizer link arm (with ball joint in both ends) is not included in a strut no. The suspension strut is just one part of many that makes a car safe and driveable. Suspension strut absorbs humps on road, the spring keeps the car at a certain ride height and of course helps the strut to regain "conciousness" after hammering against the road so to say. On top of the strut is a strut top mount bearing. This is to compensate for grinding and sounds from strut to chassis. 

 

Stabilizer I think it is called anti-roll bar/swaybar droplink. In your car that is the link with ball joint ends and one ball joint is mounted on the swaybar itself (stabilizer from one side to another) and the other ball joint is mounted directly on the suspension strut.

 

Springs, probably no need to replace, but do check for cracks and broken pieces. Also rust. But springs tend to be ok until they crack or brake into 2 pieces or more. I did my struts without replacing springs, since they were good (compared them with a new set that I had)

 

Dsg thermostat is often a forgotten treasure. When engine comes up to temp as normal, but drops 30-40 degrees when not under load, its often dsg thermostat that is the issue and not the engine thermostat. People tend to replace engine thermostat and still has same issues. Engine thermostat is a pricey job vs dsg thermostat is like 15min job. You can actually check the dsg thermostat in your kitchen. Just take it out and let water run through it. If it is broken, water will run straight through, if working, water will not run through (well, will be restricted flow if you know what I mean).

 

 

Edited 19 December, 20241 yr by rbhelle