Hi all, 

 

My flywheel is rattling really bad so it's time to change the clutch. I've never done a clutch in one of these, any tips? Also, what else should I do whilst everything is out? 

It's a 2013 tdi with 140k

Any linkages that wear or dpf to change? 

Most cost efficient is best but don't want to skimp and have to do a massive strip down again. 

Any advice much appreciated 

 

It's recently had an overhaul of rear subframe, suspension and breaks, can belt and water pump and even a pollen filter 🤓 pic of parts of parts replaced 

 

Cheers 

 

Mike 

Sits nice after the refresh 

High chance its a DMF flywheel unless someone else has converted it to solid. Have seen a few posts where folks convert it to solid for reliabilty. I had a fabia 1.9tdi that was DMF and luckily the flywheel was still in perfect condition when I did the clutch so just left the DMF in place. If yours is rattling then reckon its on its way out. You can get a full kit and personally I would use Sachs,Luk or Valeo. Check the condition of CV joints and gators and drive shafts etc and also Wheel bearings while your at it. I did my sons in his fabia and got a cross engine bar that goes across front wings from ebay to support engine and gearbox. Made life a lot easier especially raising box to get it back in again as I did mine on axle stands by myself. Changed a front bearing while I was at it. Not sure what more has to come off for the octavia. I would personally change the slave cylinder while your at it. If its like the fabia its external mounted but push rod and gator are internal so if it fails or leaks then it could contaminate the new clutch. 

Can't be much original left on your car judging by the pile of bits. Well done, bet it drives like new now.

Alasdair

There's not many parts worth the expense of replacing unless there's an issue as it's not a difficult car to get apart in general. 

 

At 140k though the gearbox mount is likely knackered (£35 Autodoc and new stretch bolts from the dealer £25). 

New oil for the gearbox and angle box if you haven't replaced it recently.

Slave cylinder worth it so it doesn't contaminate the new clutch/dmf.

 

Usual general check over as you go and I like to have a spray bottle of lanoguard or similar to touch up any areas that are showing corrosion.

 

Don't forget to recalibrate the gearbox linkage when you're done to keep the best gear changes.

 

 

On 16/12/2024 at 07:40, Meridion said:

 

 

Edited 20 December, 20241 yr by GrizzledBear

50 minutes ago, GrizzledBear said:

Slave cylinder worth it so it doesn't contaminate the new clutch/dmf.

 

Definitely worth doing as it will indeed fail, it does not leak to contaminate the friction material but instead draws in air causing the pedal to remain on the floor and no means of disengaging the clutch.

 

However being an earlier vehicle if it has the one piece aluminium slave cylinder I would stick with it, all the problems started with the 2 piece plastic ones (O ring joint between cylinder and feed pipe), I found a new old stock one to fit to my 2015 Yeti, I don't know what year the changeover occurred.

You will need special bolts and eccentric spacers to ensure that the subframe goes back in exactly the same position unless you like driving a car that crabs, will dive into the kerb or across the road if you let go of the steering wheel, I found that out the very hard way.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

Definitely worth doing as it will indeed fail, it does not leak to contaminate the friction material but instead draws in air causing the pedal to remain on the floor and no means of disengaging the clutch.

 

However being an earlier vehicle if it has the one piece aluminium slave cylinder I would stick with it, all the problems started with the 2 piece plastic ones (O ring joint between cylinder and feed pipe), I found a new old stock one to fit to my 2015 Yeti, I don't know what year the changeover occurred.

When bleeding slave keep going till fluid is clear again. Mine was absolutely awful. Almost a dirty green/brown colour. Reckon it was the same fluid from new and that would have been over 18 years old. 

Can you further explain this as I've never heard of such things? 

4 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

When bleeding slave keep going till fluid is clear again. Mine was absolutely awful. Almost a dirty green/brown colour. Reckon it was the same fluid from new and that would have been over 18 years old. 

 

8 minutes ago, Death_by_car_building said:

Can you further explain this as I've never heard of such things? 

 

I had to replace slave cylinder on mine when doing clutch and when bleeding it afterwards found the fluid between the reservoir and slave cylinder was very old and dirty probably because it had been in the pipes/master cylinder after the reservoir for years or perhaps the seals in the slave had broken down and contaminated it. Its fed on mine from the same reservoir for brakes. I kept bleeding the slave until I got nice clean new fluid coming out. Didn't want old dirty fluid in the new slave cylinder in case it damaged seals.

21 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

High chance its a DMF flywheel unless someone else has converted it to solid.

Have seen a few posts where folks convert it to solid for reliabilty. I had a fabia 1.9tdi that was DMF and luckily the flywheel was still in perfect condition when I did the clutch so just left the DMF in place. If yours is rattling then reckon its on its way out. You can get a full kit and personally I would use Sachs,Luk or Valeo. Check the condition of CV joints and gators and drive shafts etc and also Wheel bearings while your at it. I did my sons in his fabia and got a cross engine bar that goes across front wings from ebay to support engine and gearbox. Made life a lot easier especially raising box to get it back in again as I did mine on axle stands by myself. Changed a front bearing while I was at it. Not sure what more has to come off for the octavia. I would personally change the slave cylinder while your at it. If its like the fabia its external mounted but push rod and gator are internal so if it fails or leaks then it could contaminate the new clutch. 

Can't be much original left on your car judging by the pile of bits. Well done, bet it drives like new n

 

5 hours ago, GrizzledBear said:

There's not many parts worth the expense of replacing unless there's an issue as it's not a difficult car to get apart in general. 

 

At 140k though the gearbox mount is likely knackered (£35 Autodoc and new stretch bolts from the dealer £25). 

New oil for the gearbox and angle box if you haven't replaced it recently.

Slave cylinder worth it so it doesn't contaminate the new clutch/dmf.

 

Usual general check over as you go and I like to have a spray bottle of lanoguard or similar to touch up any areas that are showing corrosion.

 

Don't forget to recalibrate the gearbox linkage when you're done to keep the best gear changes.

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

Definitely worth doing as it will indeed fail, it does not leak to contaminate the friction material but instead draws in air causing the pedal to remain on the floor and no means of disengaging the clutch.

 

However being an earlier vehicle if it has the one piece aluminium slave cylinder I would stick with it, all the problems started with the 2 piece plastic ones (O ring joint between cylinder and feed pipe), I found a new old stock one to fit to my 2015 Yeti, I don't know what year the changeover occurred.

1 hour ago, Alasdair1 said:

When bleeding slave keep going till fluid is clear again. Mine was absolutely awful. Almost a dirty green/brown colour. Reckon it was the same fluid from new and that would have been over 18 old. 

Thanks all

Reply to all

 

Wasn't sure if the smf was a good idea - does it cause problems further down the line or is it a proven mod?

 

I plan to change all fluids filters (diff, box and clutch and engine)

 

If I can get the mounts I'll change them as well as the engine ones whilst there. 

 

If I have a plastic clutch cylinder I'll swap that out for new

 

Are there any instructional documents or videos on best method to tackle the job on the scout - I've heard it can be a big job when working under axle stands? Any instructions on gear linkage reset procedure for the scout? 

 

Been looking at one of those engine supports for a while - will come in handy for other projects too (unlikely I'll need it for the Octavia again;) 

 

It's pretty much a new car after having this job done and drives amazing - it's average mpg is roughly 56 miles per gallon but I've seen a constant 65mpg on long drives under 70mph

 

Thanks for the support, much appreciated. 

 

I've recently fitted some lights and roof rack with independent power and charge system - I've wired it so the aux battery (300ah - max 600ah) also serves as a jump pack/booster. 

All the switch gear, fuses and tow electrics are housed in the small grey box! 

The RF remotes are really handy cos they work from 100mtr away so all the family have a fob and can use the car at night to light the way as needed 🤓

What's my geek score? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the cables are under and secured to the roof rack

All cables come the the front corner with fitted conduit and then enter via existing hole in front roof bar mount  - this car used to be an ambulance in a previous life, I used all existing cables that were left behind (the roof rack to power supply is all new cable, obvs) 

 

The quality of the ambulance installation was below standard to say the least. 

The general condition of the car and wiring is now to a more acceptable standard and one step away from becoming a zombie apocalypse battle tank 🤣

When I did the suspension overhaul I took the time to strip out everything I could, removed any rust and painted with hammerite or stove paint. 

I even took the anti rollbar off and painted that! 

With the rear frame stripped it was an easy job to clean n paint everything but it was hot, really hot. I had to drink beer to survive 🙏🍺

Thats a very nice job. Did it once on an old volvo940 and it drove like new and also lasted for years. Need to do that on my 2012 octavia estate before it gets too bad. The older 08 plate I reckon is now past it. By the time I rubbed it down and treated all the rust its going to be cheaper buying another one plus guaranteed I would find a few holes that need welding which I am not very good at and hate doing anyway. Got loads of space at my place so old cars just end up sitting as parts donors. It is turning into a bit of a scrapyard/graveyard though but has saved me a fortune over the years. At the moment I have 8 various vehicles or so called projects plus 2 on the road. Saving up for a 4 post lift.

Alasdair

It's definitely worth the investment if the cars solid. 

I do think that these octavia estates are quality cars in for the long haul 

 

16 hours ago, Death_by_car_building said:

It's definitely worth the investment if the cars solid. 

I do think that these octavia estates are quality cars in for the long haul 

 

I agree so far I have had three octavia and two fabia. Only problem I have with octavia body is rusty front wings and also where the sills meet the wheel arch near rear wheels and front wheels. I did the timing belt on mine and the amount of crap stuck behind the plastic wheel liners causes the problem. I removed all of them and  powerwashed as much of the inside including the sills as possible and treated with waxoil then also undersealed anything that the liners didn't cover.  Be a lot easier on a ramp though.

Alasdair

2 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

I agree so far I have had three octavia and two fabia. Only problem I have with octavia body is rusty front wings and also where the sills meet the wheel arch near rear wheels and front wheels. I did the timing belt on mine and the amount of crap stuck behind the plastic wheel liners causes the problem. I removed all of them and  powerwashed as much of the inside including the sills as possible and treated with waxoil then also undersealed anything that the liners didn't cover.  Be a lot easier on a ramp though.

Alasdair

 

Have you seen these before? 

I'm considering the investment... I don't have the height for a 2 post lift or I'd have one (you can get new 2 post lifts for around 1200 quid now'a days!) 

 

https://kwiklifts.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAiA65m7BhAwEiwAAgu4JNiY9f6LqHjAk1dVOTTgTNG6XGsDh2EWX8oQxpuFAHLiJ0Jl536nfRoCPTIQAvD_BwE

450mm lift height (which will be less allowing for clearance to slide lifting blocks in is less than my trolley jack can achieve, if there is height enough for the columns of the 2 post lift can you not use a limit switch to prevent contact on the roof? I'm sure you would gain more working height and also free access underneath where it is needed.

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

450mm lift height (which will be less allowing for clearance to slide lifting blocks in is less than my trolley jack can achieve, if there is height enough for the columns of the 2 post lift can you not use a limit switch to prevent contact on the roof? I'm sure you would gain more working height and also free access underneath where it is needed.

 

Max lift is about 700mm

 

These are handy as separate units and can hang on a wall when not in use and if needed you can transport them 

 

I've got about 700mm from my roof rack to the wooden joists 

Would much rather a 2 post but it's not sensible to have one. 

I'd have one outside but I love in rented and I'd need to install a concrete pad at my expense... Ball ache 😅

7 hours ago, Death_by_car_building said:

 

Have you seen these before? 

I'm considering the investment... I don't have the height for a 2 post lift or I'd have one (you can get new 2 post lifts for around 1200 quid now'a days!) 

 

https://kwiklifts.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAiA65m7BhAwEiwAAgu4JNiY9f6LqHjAk1dVOTTgTNG6XGsDh2EWX8oQxpuFAHLiJ0Jl536nfRoCPTIQAvD_BwE

Did have a look but personally  a four post lift for me is what I'm saving for. I dont have the height but I hope to either build a garage or raise the

Having used both, I'm saving for a 2 post.

4 post is much safer/idiot proof but harder to do suspension work.

Not being a mechanic I don't know much of these things but the very small "tin pot" vehicle repair garage behind my wifes business dug out an inspection pit. Is that a reasonable alternative?

 

Maybe @J.R. could comment.

Depending on the water table/soil type you could just end up with a very cold bath!

 

I despise working in a pit and would take any form of lift over doing that.