If anyone can suggest answers to the following please do post:

-where is a neat clean place to tap into an ignition-switched 12V supply under the hood (or alternatively in the fusebox/dash) To be used to power a headlight washer motor intermittently.

- I have a suitable in-line fuse holder to crimp/solder in. If the pump is marked with the current draw I could figure the fuse to install - anyone know off-hand?

- where is the easiest passage for routing wiring coming through the firewall from the washer motor side (the car is a LHD if that's of any consequence...)

(you've probably worked out what trouble I'm planning to get myself into already!...... )

Thanks for any help!

Cheers,

Bas

you could check what amp the fuse is for your washer pump on the car , should save you trying to work it out for the other pump ,

This wouldn't be some sort of elaborate IC sprayer by any chance would it Bas?

Yes it is Stu

Aussie Autospeed intelligent mister controller (bare bones kit), planning to use a 50:50 mix of alcohol and water. Bigger washer bottle + headlight pump.

Had to look up the meaning of the word "fang" - it's aussie slang for "putting your foot down"

Can't do the FMIC right now (too expensive, and heavy to ship out here!) and if you do the FMIC you really should have a turbo upgrade/remap as well, right?

SWMBO would kill me.....

Evaporative cooling should work really well, and with temps hitting 45deg indicated I need some help (luckily its only for about 2-3 months).

TaviaRS has the same system and seems well pleased with it.

Cheers:thumbup:

Bas

I knew you would be planning this Bas!!

I have given it some thought and have a bit of a plan for you as long as you don't have Xenons.

No Xenons Stu,

got a larger washer bottle on order from the dealers, and awaiting the price on a proper headlight washer pump.

Pray tell, what's your plan?

Cheers

Bas

Use the larger bottle and xenon water pump to supply the spray. Looking at the instructions I found regarding the controller you take a pulse feed from the injector cabling. I'm not entirely sure of where you might pick up a switched live yet but I'll see what I can think of.

Thanks for the advice, Stu - I really appreciate it:thumbup: Encouraging because it confirms that I'm headed in the right direction!

Now I just have to plan out the switched supply and go firewall grommet-hunting and I'm all set!!!

BTW TaviaRS has done this mod apparently with good results - I'll have to ask him for any tips gained during the install.

BTW I found a good site that has a list of no less than 7 IC spray-related links:

http://www.roesser.com/wrx_intercool.asp

They make for interesting reading.

Once the IC controller board comes in, I'm gonna figure how to mount the bare board (MUCH cheaper than the boxed one) in a neat little experimenter's plastic box, probably using standoffs, need to drill the holes for LED's as well and label. I thought of remote-mounting the 3 most important LEDs but that would be too distracting while driving.

No bl**dy way I'm putting the word "fang" on the relevant LED label though - I think "Hard Accel(eration)" or "Boot It" would be better.

Cheers M8:thumbup:

Bas

Getting through the bulkhead/firewall with a single cable is easy.

There is the grommet that the bonnet pull goes through, a little involved as you need to take the scuttle cover off and the wiper linkage out but a nice neat job. Failing that you have the washer grommet which on RHD cars is behind the glovebox (Check out my Cruise Guide for pics).

Make sure you put the contoller in a nice sold box - you don't want water in there.

If you mount the box in the engine bay you'll only need one wire from in the car (Assuming we don't find one under the lid) - the switched live, the earth can be taken from the chassis.