I keep getting an ECU amber alert on my dash as well as it saying front assist not working on my computer screen. When these warning come up my car jolts as though i have gone to a lower gear to quickly. 

I have got my car booked in to a garage next week but i was looking for some pointers so i might know what to expect lol

 

Thank you.

You could try carefully cleaning the front "assist" sensor area at the front of the car it might (or might not) just be a bit of stuck debris, or flapping object, or just dirty.  Perhaps look for any possible signs of impact to the area from whatever that may effect the area or sensor.

 

Have a look at your car's Owner's Manual for what the Front "assist" is and what does and how it reacts, under Front Assist - Functionality - ,Automatic braking in the event of a collision.

 

May be not on this but on other things if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required it could save you future time, hassle and unnecessary money spent on visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians as it contains a lot of useful information about the car.

 

HTH.

 

VWŠkoda website for Owner's Manuals. -  https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Edited 26 February, 20251 yr by nta16

On 26/02/2025 at 19:46, nta16 said:

You could try carefully cleaning the front "assist" sensor area at the front of the car it might (or might not) just be a bit of stuck debris, or flapping object, or just dirty.  Perhaps look for any possible signs of impact to the area from whatever that may effect the area or sensor.

 

Have a look at your car's Owner's Manual for what the Front "assist" is and what does and how it reacts, under Front Assist - Functionality - ,Automatic braking in the event of a collision.

 

May be not on this but on other things if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required it could save you future time, hassle and unnecessary money spent on visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians as it contains a lot of useful information about the car.

 

HTH.

 

VWŠkoda website for Owner's Manuals. -  https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Sorry that I haven’t replied. I took the car to my local independent garage and they said it’s an intermittent fault.i have it now hooked in with Škoda to find out the issue. Not feeling hopeful to be honest.

I do have a copy of the codes that keep showing up.

If you have the codes put them up and say which scan tool they are from, if the scan tool isn't VW appropriate and to you model and year (VIN), that program not fully updated before use on the car and the car and if appropriate scan tool batteries are not in a good state of charge then codes and reports can be spurious. If you have the full scan tool health report to post that might help even more.

You seem to have a few issues with your car have you checked its 12v battery is in a good state of charge and health if its not, even though the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts without problem, the battery charge could still be too low for the car's computer systems and they can play up. Does the start/stop operate when it should, do you get any messages about electric demand/use and start/stop is deactivated.

22 minutes ago, nta16 said:

If you have the codes put them up and say which scan tool they are from, if the scan tool isn't VW appropriate and to you model and year (VIN), that program not fully updated before use on the car and the car and if appropriate scan tool batteries are not in a good state of charge then codes and reports can be spurious. If you have the full scan tool health report to post that might help even more.

You seem to have a few issues with your car have you checked its 12v battery is in a good state of charge and health if its not, even though the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts without problem, the battery charge could still be too low for the car's computer systems and they can play up. Does the start/stop operate when it should, do you get any messages about electric demand/use and start/stop is deactivated.

This is what my local garage gave me for codes.

I don’t know too much about cars to be honest.

It comes up with the EML light and EPC light and cuts out at low speed. If I’m driving at normal speed it just misfires.

Very difficult to read that image, even when enlarged - is that DTC prefix letter 'W' ?

51 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Very difficult to read that image, even when enlarged - is that DTC prefix letter 'W' ?

I’m not sure what that means but all the codes on the left start with ‘U’

2 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Very difficult to read that image, even when enlarged - is that DTC prefix letter 'W' ?

The codes are:

U01000

U112100

U111200

1 hour ago, Emilyj97 said:

The codes are:

U01000

U112100

U111200

U are communication, so another reason to suspect / check the car's 12v battery isn't in a lower state of charge than the computers like - plus for successful diagnostics . particularly for electric, electronic/computer and engine starting issues you want the battery in a reasonably good state of charge before you start the diagnostics and testing otherwise diagnostics and testing and sorting can be hindered with spurious results or the battery gets too low to successfully proceed.

It could also be connectors and/or wires - but first thing I would do is fully recharge the battery using an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' for the car and the charger maintainer. If the battery is low it might take many hours to bring it back up but if you can't get the battery to full in one go then recharge again with the charger maintainer as required. Also driving the car will help to clear codes (if there's not another cause(s) to the fault(s)).

If you search the site you will see many threads with problems caused by lower state of battery charge and resolved by recharging the battery, then maintenance charging before the battery gets too low will help keep the issue returning or returning too soon as the battery comes to the end of of useful life (often prematurely by use, abuse and neglect).

If recharging the battery doesn't sort the issue(s) then you have still gained by recharging the battery and recharging the battery is a very simple easy clean hands job.

The Autel, I can't see what model, is not a VW specialist specific scan tool but may be very good or good enough if kept up to date and used as I put before but all scan tools have errors and omissions and sometimes have problems with some car makes/models and not work as well as on others.

Some Briskoda members are able to offer VW specific readings of error codes and reports and perhaps live date for beer tokens at worse, a few others offer professional services so different renumeration. Have a look at the following link and list and map to see if there's anyone near you that might be able to help confirm the Autel readings or give more or different readings and information. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

HTH.

Edited 19 March, 20251 yr by nta16
typos

I took my car into Skoda and they couldn’t find a problem but I am still having the same issue. I am planning on checking my battery to see if it could be that as far as i know its the original battery.

It shouldn't be the battery as you'd hope the independent and Škoda garages would have at least noted if the battery was in a lower state of charge let alone health, and would have at least told you if not recharged the battery (or more likely with Škoda garage charge to, er, charge the battery or sell you an expensive new battery and 'coding').

You can recharge the battery if required as good as if not better than the garages using an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions for this in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions.

Whilst it's always a good idea to have the battery in a good state of charge (and health) especially with electric, electronic and engine starting issues I doubt this is the cause of interment issues. Loose battery terminal clamp(s) or earth or other connections maybe, for intermittent.

If you have notes of when this intermittent issue happens there might be a pattern (cold and/or wet weather, after car has stood for a while, after care gets hot, anything else happens at the same time, etc..

This issue could be caused by quite a few things and needs proper diagnostics, probably with the use of traditional diagnostic tools and an appropriate scan tool. A good auto-electrician should be able to diagnosis this but intermittent issues are often difficult to pin down until they're playing up. Then you have to consider computer programs and perhaps updates. Have a look at this VWŠkoda website for any Recalls for your car (well the ones that VWŠkoda admit to anyway (again garages should have checked their databases for Recalls and technical bulletins on issues). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

2019 Fabias had a few issues (poor quality electric relay not working when cold, petrol throttle body part needed) possibly 2020 too, then of course late 2020 to 2021 might have the effects of Covid parts and production but I've no idea how much that effected Fabias other than some cheaper radios being fitted IIRC.

If you haven't had the car from new then there might be something in its history you don't know about, anything else not working as it should on the car, is the car factory standard or has anything been added or changed.

it tends to cut out when the car is mostly stationary for example at the traffic lights etc. the radio screen also says Parkpilot not available. These issues have only started the last 2/3 months.

I didn’t have the car from new it was two years old when purchased.

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

It shouldn't be the battery as you'd hope the independent and Škoda garages would have at least noted if the battery was in a lower state of charge let alone health, and would have at least told you if not recharged the battery (or more likely with Škoda garage charge to, er, charge the battery or sell you an expensive new battery and 'coding').

You can recharge the battery if required as good as if not better than the garages using an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions for this in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions.

Whilst it's always a good idea to have the battery in a good state of charge (and health) especially with electric, electronic and engine starting issues I doubt this is the cause of interment issues. Loose battery terminal clamp(s) or earth or other connections maybe, for intermittent.

If you have notes of when this intermittent issue happens there might be a pattern (cold and/or wet weather, after car has stood for a while, after care gets hot, anything else happens at the same time, etc..

This issue could be caused by quite a few things and needs proper diagnostics, probably with the use of traditional diagnostic tools and an appropriate scan tool. A good auto-electrician should be able to diagnosis this but intermittent issues are often difficult to pin down until they're playing up. Then you have to consider computer programs and perhaps updates. Have a look at this VWŠkoda website for any Recalls for your car (well the ones that VWŠkoda admit to anyway (again garages should have checked their databases for Recalls and technical bulletins on issues). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

2019 Fabias had a few issues (poor quality electric relay not working when cold, petrol throttle body part needed) possibly 2020 too, then of course late 2020 to 2021 might have the effects of Covid parts and production but I've no idea how much that effected Fabias other than some cheaper radios being fitted IIRC.

If you haven't had the car from new then there might be something in its history you don't know about, anything else not working as it should on the car, is the car factory standard or has anything been added or changed.

It shouldn't be the battery as you'd hope the independent and Škoda garages would have at least noted if the battery was in a lower state of charge let alone health, and would have at least told you if not recharged the battery (or more likely with Škoda garage charge to, er, charge the battery or sell you an expensive new battery and 'coding').

You can recharge the battery if required as good as if not better than the garages using an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions for this in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions.

Whilst it's always a good idea to have the battery in a good state of charge (and health) especially with electric, electronic and engine starting issues I doubt this is the cause of interment issues. Loose battery terminal clamp(s) or earth or other connections maybe, for intermittent.

If you have notes of when this intermittent issue happens there might be a pattern (cold and/or wet weather, after car has stood for a while, after care gets hot, anything else happens at the same time, etc..

This issue could be caused by quite a few things and needs proper diagnostics, probably with the use of traditional diagnostic tools and an appropriate scan tool. A good auto-electrician should be able to diagnosis this but intermittent issues are often difficult to pin down until they're playing up. Then you have to consider computer programs and perhaps updates. Have a look at this VWŠkoda website for any Recalls for your car (well the ones that VWŠkoda admit to anyway (again garages should have checked their databases for Recalls and technical bulletins on issues). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

2019 Fabias had a few issues (poor quality electric relay not working when cold, petrol throttle body part needed) possibly 2020 too, then of course late 2020 to 2021 might have the effects of Covid parts and production but I've no idea how much that effected Fabias other than some cheaper radios being fitted IIRC.

If you haven't had the car from new then there might be something in its history you don't know about, anything else not working as it should on the car, is the car factory standard or has anything been added or changed.

2 hours ago, Emilyj97 said:

it tends to cut out when the car is mostly stationary for example at the traffic lights etc. the radio screen also says Parkpilot not available. These issues have only started the last 2/3 months.

I didn’t have the car from new it was two years old when purchased.

Some questions then.

I assume you have a 1.0 litre petrol engine, is that correct?

Do you have a DSG automatic gearbox or a manual gearbox, and how many gears if manual?

Have you tried switching off the start-stop (by pushing the button to off when you turn the ignition on or just after starting the engine and leaving it deactivated for the whole journey)?

What gear or selection have you made when stationary at traffic lights, and just before so shifted out of?

Have a look at the Owner's Manual for your car and confirm which warning lights you get, the name/title that VWŠkoda use in the Owner's Manual, to be sure which you mean, and/or take a photo of them if they are alight, not just for here but to show the garages(s).

Following are for examples of some warning lights only (from my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual).

Edited 15 April, 20251 yr by nta16
ETA:

Yes my car is a 1 litre manual. I usually put it into 1sr when at a stop. My stop start is always active I have never disabled it. EPC and engine light show on the dash and front assist unavailable pop up on the screen on the dash.

5 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Some questions then.

I assume you have a 1.0 litre petrol engine, is that correct?

Do you have a DSG automatic gearbox or a manual gearbox, and how many gears if manual?

Have you tried switching off the start-stop (by pushing the button to off when you turn the ignition on or just after starting the engine and leaving it deactivated for the whole journey)?

What gear or selection have you made when stationary at traffic lights, and just before so shifted out of?

Have a look at the Owner's Manual for your car and confirm which warning lights you get, the name/title that VWŠkoda use in the Owner's Manual, to be sure which you mean, and/or take a photo of them if they are alight, not just for here but to show the garages(s).

Following are for examples of some warning lights only (from my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual).

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Some questions then.

I assume you have a 1.0 litre petrol engine, is that correct?

Do you have a DSG automatic gearbox or a manual gearbox, and how many gears if manual?

Have you tried switching off the start-stop (by pushing the button to off when you turn the ignition on or just after starting the engine and leaving it deactivated for the whole journey)?

What gear or selection have you made when stationary at traffic lights, and just before so shifted out of?

Have a look at the Owner's Manual for your car and confirm which warning lights you get, the name/title that VWŠkoda use in the Owner's Manual, to be sure which you mean, and/or take a photo of them if they are alight, not just for here but to show the garages(s).

Following are for examples of some warning lights only (from my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual).

3 minutes ago, Emilyj97 said:

Yes my car is a 1 litre manual.

Might not be relevant but how many forward gears?

5 minutes ago, Emilyj97 said:

My stop start is always active I have never disabled it.

So does the engine stop when you are stopped at the traffic lights or cut out before? You could try turning the start-stop off to see if it makes any difference or helps the issue in any way.

9 minutes ago, Emilyj97 said:

EPC and engine light show on the dash

EPC and which engine light show on the dash, is it this ? Are both these lights amber?

18 minutes ago, Emilyj97 said:

and front assist unavailable pop up on the screen on the dash.

Did either of both garages check the sensor for security of fixed position, not dirty or obstructed do you know?

When the car is stationary at the traffic lights in 1st gear(?) do you have the clutch pedal fully depressed and your foot on brake pedal or foot off brake pedal and handbrake on?

As you approach the traffic light to stop at them how are you applying the foot brake to slow and stop, light or firmer pressure, what gear are you in then?

To save space you don't need to quote my posts, or only in parts if you want.

ETA: I forgot - what has changed in the last 2/3 months, any work done on the car, part(s) fitted, used differently, driven differently?

What is the "service" and "maintenance" history of the car like, has all "service" and "maintenance" work been carried out to schedules - brake fluid changed, engine air filter changed, spark plugs changed, engine oil and filter changed each year, cabin filter, (air-con)?

Sorry if i missed it, but what year was the car registered and how many miles done, and asked above.

What servicing has it had?

My car is serviced every year it’s a 2020 reg and done 23k miles. I am only a local driver back to work, shopping etc. I always leave my car in 1st gear and work down the gears as I approach a stop. The stop start does work however I have now turned it off to see if that helps anything. When I took it to Skoda I believe they only did a plug in. The engine light is like the one you have out on your post and it’s amber as well as saying EPC in amber.

OT but not really. Has your car had new Spark Plugs yet. Only 3 & they are a 4 year / 40,000 mile schedule change item.

A misfire can have the EPC light coming on, and there need to be enough in a cycle to log as a fault code.

Misfires can also have the engine light come on. Or even just sitting ticking over for a long time, even from being at a dealers or a mot test and running stationary.

No I don’t believe I have had new spark plugs. At my MOT and services every year it never requires a lot of work being done (that’s not always a good sign I know) once I turn the car off and back on these light disappear from the dash.

I'm not trying to get at you but just explain, the "service" that modern cars get annually are little more than engine oil and filter changes and a look for more chargeable work, this isn't even a service for the engine let alone for the car as a whole. The "maintenance" schedule gives a bit more of what would have formally been service work but again mainly based on the engine.

The engine is not a very important car system or component when compared with the important car systems, components and parts which are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights and safety electrics (horn, wipers, blower, some electronic systems, etc..) windows, mirrors (and reflective number plates) (see and be seen).

If the car is lower annual mileage and mostly short journeys for the engine at least it is perhaps even more important that the engine oil is changed annually than if it was a higher annual mileage and used more regularly for longer journeys. This of course doesn't allow for (unknown) mileage and use of the car before your ownership.

If the start-stop works when it should that suggests the battery isn't too low in charge at least - but it wasn't the reason for my suggestion, which might not prove or help but is very quick and easy to try and costs no money.

Plugging in a scan tool, even a Dealership level one, is just one tool used towards the start of a diagnostics process and only reads what has been recorded by the car's systems (if it is not also used in other ways such as more testing and live data from car being driven). Whatever it reports, or doesn't report, has to be interpreted and perhaps other tools used and further diagnostics, a no-error-code-shown isn't necessarily a clean bill of health (though it might be, more checking and cross referencing is usually/often required).

Leaving the car in first gear when parked up (though normally not necessary) isn't the same as being in 1st gear whilst waiting at traffic lights, I'm trying to establish if I should direct you to other threads that might be useful rather than just seeing what I can pick out with your driving, I'm assuming you might have been driving for around a decade and the issue(s) only started 2/3 months ago. This being done over the internet is not the same as being able to see and test the car and as a passenger in it when it plays up so without lots of questions things can't be checked and crossed referenced to prevent wrong assumption and making suggestions of some possible things this/these issue(s) might be (and/or might not be).

I made the assumption when you put "ECU" you might mean EPC and perhaps a typo (I make loads of typos) but it needs checking and confirming as there's no other information about this to see.

A 2020 reg car could possibly have been made in 2019, VIN (perhaps build date) is needed to pin down any build or parts/components/software batch issues - and don't expect the Dealership to always tell you about those, an independent garage might have those on their databases or information they have access to - and your car might not have any but again the information helps to point to threads where other owners have had issues with Fabias/engines made at the same time.

ETA: IF the plugs haven't been replaced then at the least the "maintenance" schedule hasn't been followed and you can take much of the "service" and "maintenance" as minimum rather than best requirements.

The lights going off with the old "turnin'-it-off-'n'on-agen" is good in some respects but if the lights intermittently return then it's not a real solution.

Edited 15 April, 20251 yr by nta16
typos

No I understand what you mean and wasn’t getting at anything but my car was under Arnold Clark for service and MOT which I wasn’t 100% comfortable with as I know those places aren’t always helpful. I have been driving for 5 years, my driving habits aren’t the best but I always take care of my car / vehicles I have had.

These are pictures of my dash. Please ignore the tire pressure I just haven’t taken that warning off.

Here is a picture showing the dash lights better. The engine light isn’t showing here but it does come on not always but it pops up and goes off which is irritating.

Only read the last few posts in this thread, so apologies if I've missed something.

These codes - U01000, U112100 and U111200 - I assume they came back after being cleared? Was this all of the codes? These are ECM/PCM/Databus codes (Engine Control Module, Powertrain Control Module and the databus connection between such modules) so could very well have been stored, although I would hope both garages would clear this.

Personally, I'd start trying to figure out why the EPC light is on. If there's an issue with something there, this could very easily cause the car to not give you the front assist. Certainly, I think the front assist being unavailable is a symptom of whatever else is going on, rather than being the cause. The misfiring could easily cause the EPC light, which could maybe cause the front assist issue, but a) if it was all cleared then it shouldn't come back and b) the EPC light/front assist doesn't explain the U fault codes.

Did you get the battery tested? That's the only thing I can think of that would throw up this combination of faults, although usually there will be some sort of DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that mentions low voltage.

What exactly did the garage and Skoda say about the misfire, etc?

A local garage said it was an intermittent fault and couldn’t find the cause. Škoda did a plug in and couldn’t see any issue and that the codes had been cleared. I did give them the codes so they could help but it didn’t go any further. The problem did stop for a couple of weeks but has now come back but my driving habits and everything else car wise hasn’t changed. I don’t know why it stopped and has now started again which is the irritating part.