Hi my check engine light has come on. I've checked the engine all seems fine thinking properly the ear valve.

Can anyone recommend a code reader for skoda fabia 2015 monte carlo. 1.7 tdi.

Or anyone know of any trick to turn off check engine light without a code reader ?

The light could be on for so many reasons, a OBD code reader would (just) give you the generic error codes that might (or might not) lead you to the source or cause directly or indirectly. There are many inexpensive error code readers just for the generic OBD codes available to buy.

Next step up is a scan tool which you can be told details about if you want.

There is no point to a trick just to turn the light off if you don't know why it came on, it needs investigating. Just turning it off will usually only mean tat it comes back on again and whatever caused the light to come on may get worse.

More information is needed to really be able to help you, circumstances of what was happening, the driving, when the light come on, has it happened before, any new parts or work done recently, service history, usage of the diesel engine now and in the past, any other lights or messages, etc., etc..

HTH.

11 minutes ago, nta16 said:

The light could be on for so many reasons, a OBD code reader would (just) give you the generic error codes that might (or might not) lead you to the source or cause directly or indirectly. There are many inexpensive error code readers just for the generic OBD codes available to buy.

Next step up is a scan tool which you can be told details about if you want.

There is no point to a trick just to turn the light off if you don't know why it came on, it needs investigating. Just turning it off will usually only mean tat it comes back on again and whatever caused the light to come on may get worse.

More information is needed to really be able to help you, circumstances of what was happening, the driving, when the light come on, has it happened before, any new parts or work done recently, service history, usage of the diesel engine now and in the past, any other lights or messages, etc., etc..

HTH.

No new parts fitted. Normal day to day light driving. The light wasn't on yesterday I parked it up over night got in this morning started it up and the light was on. I've checked the engine manually everything seems fine, took it for a drive and it drives exactly the same as every other day.

Did you put petrol in yesterday? ETA: Forget that I momentarily forgot it's a diesel. 🙃

What did you check on the engine.

You could have a look for common engine faults for your engine code here but there are also general common causes, with a diesel it can be to do with emissions and/or DPF particularly if the car's had lots of slow short journey use, other lights might show or come on later.

What did you check in the engine bay (air filter and housing)?

Warrior196 uses Autophix OM126P, whatever reader or scan tool you buy or use it needs to be for VW and have the program for you model and year (or VIN) and for the program to be fully up to date before you use it each time on your car and your car battery needs to be in a reasonable state of charge, and if appropriate the battery for the scan tool, otherwise it is possible to get iffy readouts.

There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other scan tools that offer at least readings and reports, if not more, for beer tokens, some others might be professional so different renumerations, you could look and see if there is a suitable member near you from the following list and map. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

HTH.

Edited 7 March, 20251 yr by nta16
ETA:

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Did you put petrol in yesterday? ETA: Forget that I momentarily forgot it's a diesel. 🙃

What did you check on the engine.

You could have a look for common engine faults for your engine code here but there are also general common causes, with a diesel it can be to do with emissions and/or DPF particularly if the car's had lots of slow short journey use, other lights might show or come on later.

What did you check in the engine bay (air filter and housing)?

Warrior196 uses Autophix OM126P, whatever reader or scan tool you buy or use it needs to be for VW and have the program for you model and year (or VIN) and for the program to be fully up to date before you use it each time on your car and your car battery needs to be in a reasonable state of charge, and if appropriate the battery for the scan tool, otherwise it is possible to get iffy readouts.

There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other scan tools that offer at least readings and reports, if not more, for beer tokens, some others might be professional so different renumerations, you could look and see if there is a suitable member near you from the following list and map. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

HTH.

I just checked what I could see, oil, water etc, belts general conditions if it starts, how it starts, drives etc, just got back now from driving it for 2 hours straight no issues at all, fuel consumption is the same, revs stable no jumping, sounds good running, no smells or unusual sounds.

You could check the air filter and its housing are clean enough, for any pipes off, loose or cracked, oil where there shouldn't be any or not as much. Diesel engine generally are dirty things so you want them as clear running as possible from beak to tail (air in from intake on, fuel through, to exhaust emissions out).

If there are no noticeable symptoms and you can't see or fell anything, mpg hasn't been declining, no difference in starting the engine in any conditions then a full scan tool report (with proviso mentioned before) may be needed or a simple code read out might help to start with.

I'm not a mechanic, or expert in anything, and know even less about diesels than even petrols (which isn't a lot) so with the information you've given to the questions I've asked and without knowing the history of the car I've exhausted what I can think of now. Others will be able to suggest more but at the moment without a code it's a bit like how long is a piece of string and what colour is the string estimating/guessing. See what others post.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

You could check the air filter and its housing are clean enough, for any pipes off, loose or cracked, oil where there shouldn't be any or not as much. Diesel engine generally are dirty things so you want them as clear running as possible from beak to tail (air in from intake on, fuel through, to exhaust emissions out).

If there are no noticeable symptoms and you can't see or fell anything, mpg hasn't been declining, no difference in starting the engine in any conditions then a full scan tool report (with proviso mentioned before) may be needed or a simple code read out might help to start with.

I'm not a mechanic, or expert in anything, and know even less about diesels than even petrols (which isn't a lot) so with the information you've given to the questions I've asked and without knowing the history of the car I've exhausted what I can think of now. Others will be able to suggest more but at the moment without a code it's a bit like how long is a piece of string and what colour is the string estimating/guessing. See what others post.

Air filter etc is all fine.

22 minutes ago, peter94857 said:

Air filter etc is all fine.

If you have physically inspected the air filer and housing inside then great. Dark oil in black engine bay parts can be difficult to see and with so many pipes, hoses everywhere you can't se all anyway without taking things off, same for loose or cracked hoses or connections, then there poor electric connections and wires, faulty sensors, let alone computer system(s) brain-farts, and the list goes on. Having a code or report or live data can help narrow the search down and more info for diagnosis.

The only other thing I've just thought of is you could see if the exhaust emissions look different to usual out of the tail pipe on start up, after idling, driving, etc..

Good luck. If you get more info or hear, feel or smell is happening with the car, let us know.

6 hours ago, peter94857 said:

skoda fabia 2015 monte carlo. 1.7 tdi.

Are you sure it is a 1.7 TDI?

6 hours ago, peter94857 said:

Can anyone recommend a code reader

An EML327 OBD2 code reader ( check the reviews & the returns policy ) and an app like Torque OBD on an Android phone with Bluetooth?

Thanks. AG Falco

Going to try and clean out the egr valve, fully disconnect the battery and see what happens. After 12 years of driving and 130,000 miles I suspect it probably is the egr valve.

If you have fully disconnected the battery as extra measure you could turn on the headlights (switch) and bridge across the battery terminal leads for a-number of seconds just to ensure the dregs of electric are out, don't forget to turn off the headlights (switch) after.

If the egr valve is mucky it won't hurt to clean it either, you are cleaning the electronics by clearing them too but where either (or both) makes any odds to the light returning is a different matter. I would clean whatever I could for air and fuel going in and through at 130k-miles, and as Tesco tells us every little helps, still might not stop the light returning but if something needs cleaning now it probably will later so why not do it now. I'd clean throttle body and MAF sensor (with dedicated cleaning products) a few years back just cleaning the MAF sensor on my neighbour's 2005 Astra van made a big difference to how it revved, much to his surprise and he was used to working on cars. Again I'm not saying this or any of above cleaning will prevent the light return but any and all could improve performance to some extent.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Engine light is off, don't really know if it's cleaning out the egr because it wasn't bad at all, probably disconnecting the battery that did it , I saw on the Internet if you disconnect battery then put ignition, lights on and connect the battery wires it drains all elec from car and resets everything. See what happens when I take it for a drive.

It can clear and reset some things but not if there is an underlying fault. It's the old computer(s) having brain-farts and getting their panties in a twist so the old "switchin' 'em uff 'n' on agen" can help clear their tiny dumb brains.

I used to recommend trying it, particularly on older cars, but a few here used to slate me for it and said it would work on this that and the other but my idea was more to clear the codes and some resets as one computer "glitch" in one area can cause "glitches" in others that are unrelated to the first and these "glitches" can be unseen, particularly without a scan tool, and clearing one, possibly unseen "glitch" can sometimes clear the "glitch" and issue(s) of concern. Plus it's easy to do and done properly does no harm. If you have a scan tool then you'd just clear the codes.

Give it 10 or 12 journeys and see if the light returns, if it doesn't the doubters will say it was definitely cleaning the egr valve, and it could have been or contributed to resolve.

Good luck, let us know if the light comes back on or after whatever number of drives.

ETA: it took me a second or two and wondering what model you actually had to realise your photo was upside down. 🙃

Edited 8 March, 20251 yr by nta16
ETA:

Update, the email is back on. Tried the disconnecting battery thing again etc this time it didn't work. Maybe the egr valve is on its way out and the action of cleaning it actually made the eml go off temporarily.

It might be same as using a scan tool to clear error codes if the issue(s) remains it will come back after x times of driving or mileage, and the sgr valve cleaning would perhaps had been borderline for it no longer to be clean enough now or whatever is mucking it is quite fierce in which case I think you would have had more to clean before.

Yu are back to needing an OBD reader or scan tool, perhaps you want to take up AGFalco's suggestion, you can buy an EML327 at next to nothing.

Got some fuel additive took it for a ragging and the eml has gone off by itself.

Ah, the old 'Italian tune-up' I used to recommend this a lot but more so on petrol cars as with diesels there's so much muck about anyway that unless you repeat them the clogging returns this is why I was concerned about the engine air filter, housing box and tubing. Diesel are mucky-pups even when clean so need to be kept clean especially with DPF and all the car's electronics and computer programs. What's going in, through and out needs to be as clean and clear as possible so that's fuel and air, you don't want muck clogging before, in or out of the engine or in through and out of the tailpipe.

Prevention is better than cure. When my wife had a diesel (the only one we've ever had) if I was driving and filling with fuel I'd put in the V-Power diesel as it would make a. visible at least, noticeable difference when accelerating hard off a slow roundabout (no traffic close behind) about a mile from starting home, grey-ish cloud in rear-view mirror instead of black cloud. And that car was kept well serviced (no DPF).

It might be that you'd be better doing a beak to a*se end cleaning of the air and fuel. Timely and thorough engine oil and filter changes are also required to keep the engine clean. 130k-miles might sound a lot but over say 9 years is only an average of 14k/year so not that high and if it also includes a lot of short journeys especially more recently or over a number of more recent years the muck accumulation could be more. If also servicing and maintenance at any point(s) has been allowed to be slack and tardy this will add to muck build up. Diesels (and more modern petrol) cars are no longer good for round town short journey use.

Of course it's a 9-10 year old VW product with 130k-miles on it so there could be wear out or faulty parts too or instead of.

If you're sorted then that's good, se how it goes and let us know.