My wifes citigo ( 18 plate) is currently up in the air, fully raised to start doing clutch and just wondered does anyone have any tips or caveats I should know about or point me to any guides?

Backstory to this is she is ill herself with C currently working through Chem treatment about half way, not returning to work yet anyway so in theory I have 3 months to do it but actually prob going to get it done now I started.
Sadly she lost both parents to the same just last year and was actually trying to reach one of them in the car before they shortly passed away in hospital but following tyre puncture the clutch was damaged in an effort to get the car somewhere safe.

In the morning cold around xmas last year I waited with the car for recovery for 4 hours or so and finally got it back to our drive. That was fun. Very burnt smelling so I guess that was clutch burnt out. I'm only just getting around to it now as its got a bit nicer to work.

I've seen Up video (the Kevin Williams one) so feel that is enough to be pretty well prepared but its just a video so nothing in writing and just wonder if I need to know anything else
I would make more of a effort to start today but I'm in no rush and got dragged out to do some essential shopping, so all I have done is just make sure its robustly supported in the air ready, nearside arch liner removed, along with battery.
Considering the aging halfords hydraulic jack I had was questionable after it ****ed out fluid last year but I managed to recondition it and it managed to safely raise the car (whilst still having both wheels attached) to the highest stand position for them to sit under the jacking points, I'm pretty flush with that result even if its not much.

Plan to get aligment tool and actual clutch once I have the parts to compare and see what I can see.
If anyones done this any has any words of guidance also I'm very grateful.

Edited 9 March, 20251 yr by vRSAnt

Alright I now found 2011-2018_SKODA_Citigo_SM/Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf which should help compliment the procedure.

Take your time, and if in doubt, remove more bits than strictly essential, to give yourself more working space.

Credit to that Kevin Williams guy, although it doesn't have any specific nuances of the manual which I can now see it does give a good overview which should give confidence to anyone whose never tackled a clutch job before ( like me). Done plenty of engines, brakes and other work though

I went through a phase of watching lots of his videos. There's a fascination for me in watching how he overcomes a lot of the access and tooling issues whilst also managing to film it all, well, seemingly alone!

Me too, very inspiring.

Read somethiing about using polo 200mm clutch to upgrade, anyone heard about that ?

Would that mean this one? LuK BR 0222 620 3322 00 Clutch kit

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/luk/7623700

So sorry to hear about your situation.....

AFAIK, early Up/Citigos were fitted with a 180mm clutch that was problematic - some cars repaired under dealer warranty were then fitted with the Polo clutch (200mm). I believe, but cannot confirm, that later cars (post facelift?) got the Polo clutch as OEM fit. Given that there were Polos with the same MPI engine (and a bit more weight, hence clutch wear), I'm pretty sure there is a better 200mm clutch that is right for your car - if you go with part numbers and VINs, you may well end up buying the poor 180mm clutch.

If I were you, I'd repost on the Up! Owners Forum for advice - this site (Briskoda), as far as Citigos are concerned is tiny in comparison and has far less technical knowledge - it's fine for all other Skodas, but the Citigo is really an Up! with just a few cosmetics changes....

Edited 10 March, 20251 yr by freemansteve

Thanks. Only a tiny bit of progress after work, spent a little time looking at the ECU
Got frustrated by inability to shift the cables release to it so have found it possible to just push the battery tray out the way for now to work on the the bolts underneath thankfully.
Huge lol at this.

On that K-AW YT video looks like at some point (12:50) the ECU appears to magically disappears lol, and I thought this was needed to move the battery tray out. Stoopid me!
I think it was just a change of angle of the camera lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QYZ7UcSIbo

Also not sure why VW specifically have a mount for the GB ? As per the K-AW video (10:04) he is happily just using a meaty jack with some kind of extention/rubber block - I suppose a block of wood could be used although may not have the stability of a proper support.
You can apparently get transmissions adapters, not sure the benefit but whatever.

Can probably end up cobbling something up like I did for my "backup 2nd axle stand location" which is under the oem bellshaped supports with removeable grommets, I'm just using some small slats of wood with champagne corks lol instead of

"VAG Jacking Point Insert Powerflex https://www.powerflex.co.uk › product-details › VAG+Ja...

A 95A durometer polyurethane bung that presses up into the vacant hole in the chassis providing a fit and forget solution for safer lifting."

Also noting application of red rubber grease for this job. Good I got plenty, but have to apply sparingly and where applicable only.


Following the above video I made an index to go with it, which helps explain exactly what Kevin-Albert Williams is doing

Useful:- clutch alignment tool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9heclvh79I

1:25 GB pendulum mount off

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P59

2:00 gearoil drained then bolt replaced

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P58

8.2 Draining and filling gearbox oil On P82

3:25 Arch liner removal

4:40-7:00 driveshafts

X-ref "Axles Steering.pdf": 40 – Front suspension (7.2 Removing and installing drive shaft) On P52

7:40 cable mount

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57

9:00 removing gearbox bolts

-Unscrew engine/gearbox connecting bolt -arrow- in area of right-hand drive shaft seal.

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57

-Remove lower engine/gearbox connecting bolts

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P61

10:12 jack to support GB up

10:20-13:00 battery and support removed and undertray moved

13:23-15:50 gear selector cables and levers

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57

16:00 GB jacked and removing top mounting bolt "Remove hexagon bolt -arrow- for left-hand hand assembly mounting from gearbox mounting"

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P60

16:34 (Obstructing electrical connector removed)

17:12 Securing bolts for gearbox bracket -A- must be accessible: Remove gearbox bracket -A-.

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P60

17:28-20:00 Starter motor removal "Remove upper engine/gearbox connecting bolts -arrows-"

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57

20:05 Remove slave cylinder -arrows-, lay to side and secure. Donot disconnect pipes.

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P57

20:14 Remove plug

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P59

20:28-21:41 Further bolts removed

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 34 Controls, Housing (2.1 Removing the Gearbox) On P61

21:41-22:20 Wrestling out GB!

22:35 Clutch removed and flywheel surface cleaned, then reassembled with release bearing

X-ref "Manual Gearbox 0CF.pdf": 30 Clutch (2.1 Assembly overview - clutch/2.2 Removing and installing clutch) On P32,1.15 Assembly overview - clutch release mechanism on P29

Refitting is reverse of removal ? :D

Edited 10 March, 20251 yr by vRSAnt

A tool that you may need, and may not have, is a 9mm 12-sided socket. This is for the M7 screws that hold the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. I can lend you one if you want to get in touch (and I can find the one I bought!).

Did some light work today but wasn't rushing to complete ( already have all the battery and support stuff out the way )
Nice day for it tho
Unscrewed and Removed the GB pendulum mount
Drained gearbox oil
I got the cables off the gearbox selector,

Removed the driveshaft nuts and ones to control arms, but they don't seem to come out easily so may need to press them out.
Then should just be all the bolts around the gearbox and accessories around to drop it.

I am so slow ! Generally I don't work unless its sunny out, and has to be a weekend lol
So I don't really want to do anything this weekend

So far Driveshafts out, cable support out, maybe whole gearbox today
Or close- mount support, clutch slave and starter out of the way so its just to drop the remaining gearbox bolts and it should be off, going to put off for another day

Edited 23 March, 20251 yr by vRSAnt

"It was smoking a bit" she said

I got this clutch
VALEO 826362 arrived today, but the pressure plate fingers have narrower diameter opening, had GSF check its definitely Skoda Citigo matching my reg - but having to improvise a bit as my aligment tool isn't small enough to centre in the diameter gap.
That said I think you can adequately centre / measure it from the other side and the tool still keeps it from moving so I don't have to rush out and get a new tool?

I assume the gap on the pressure plate isn't too important and as long as I can align in, should be on for completing this soon. Slowest clutch job ever

eBay

VALEO 826362 Clutch Kit Fits Seat Cordoba Ibiza Mii Skoda...

• Manufacturer: VALEO. • Clutch: for vehicles with push type clutch. • Hub Profile: 22,1 x 20,3.

I think working on aging cars is the hardest thing I have ever done, credit to you for taking on the king of all diy jobs gearbox/clutch, at least the weather is lovely atvb

This is only a 7 year old car, pity the fools that work on the really old ones!
Break things into smaller jobs, never have a target to complete date ( don't do on a required car), take the small wins and don't stress the hard ones, just rethink it.

e.g. Im stressing about one bolt not getting off, different approaches can work, don't just rush into making a bad decision.
Combo of using the power tools to release some bigger stubborn nuts, then some others I have more than one tool is useful....a wheel wrench style one was useful, getting into places a normal wrench won't as it has it on a bit of an angle
but then supporting it as I'm putting torsion into breaking the nut with other hand, so less likely to "slip off and round the nut"

With more experience and mechanical sympathy you tend to get a better feel.
For me the dismantling is the hardest part, though documenting, or comparing videos and carefully storing what you remove is hoping to make the job more easy on assembly, at least haven't got that awful will it come off feeling to worry about
Comes simply down to PPPPP

I don't like leaving to chance, even the supplier site confirms the product matches the cars boot codes.

Automotive aftermarket | Valeo Service
Seems to be the 60hp rather than the 68 or 75hp. Also RNY Gbox

Gearbox remounted, I needed some help as its heavy as hell and just couldn't get it in the right way...nearly there, at about 33 min of the video
Failed at trying to get the starter back in so leaving that and everything else to tomorrow on

FINISHING a clutch job I think! Finally got the fluid posted ( didn't want Comma so had to wait patiently for more Titan from Opie, refilled and tightened the filler).

Good news goes back and forth no issues !

Just having to loosen and retorque the hub nut properly for bearing life before it goes for MOT