Hi all, I recently had to replace my felicia ignition because my key broke off in the lock, this worked fine for 2 months (+-?) but today I came home and when I turned my ignition all the way off the battery stays on!

The ignition turns 180 degrees and goes from horizontal to vertical to horizontal, when its vertical its off and the battery is off but when i turn it all the way to the left to take the key out again my battery turns back on??

Also, if I turn the car off quickly the engine stays running as well...

Tomorrow I will upload a video to get a clearer image of things but if you understand what the problem is from this description and know the solution please let me know!

Thanks!

Highly probable that there is either something wrong with the replacement ignition switch (or key barrel connection to it) or it has been wired incorrectly or there is a wiring or electrical issue elsewhere.

Modern made parts can often range from abysmal crap to very poor or poor quality to OK to if you are lucky fine - but although a newly fitted part is a suspect next is perhaps the installation but the new part or installation may also have just, belatedly, highlighted an existing problem.

Taking the ignition switch off and checking it and the barrel connection may show you the source of the problem. If the switch and key parts came as one part then they may or may not come apart easily.

Do put the video up as other posters know more and better than I.

HTH.

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

Highly probable that there is either something wrong with the replacement ignition switch (or key barrel connection to it) or it has been wired incorrectly

or there is a wiring or electrical issue elsewhere.

Since worked as it should be (as @Storrum said) the connections must be right but something happened, maybe a connection is loose or a wire is cut and now touching another one etc.

A switch removal and a new inspection must be done from an electrician for proper connectivity and let's hope that the replacment switch isn't a cheap like VIKA, otherwise i would blame it.

43 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Since worked as it should be (as @Storrum said) the connections must be right but something happened, maybe a connection is loose or a wire is cut and now touching another one etc.

Yes quite possible but also possible that a poorly made part takes a while to show up its fault(s) or failings, and it's a mechanical part too.

46 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

A switch removal and a new inspection must be done from an electrician for proper connectivity

Why is that, is the switch or connections more complex that I am considering a simple switch to be, a DIYer can disconnect and reconnect simple items like an ignition switch and check for electric connections using their eyes, nose, ears and feel plus a multimeter on the switch when it is apart or fitted.

53 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

and let's hope that the replacment switch isn't a cheap like VIKA, otherwise i would blame it.

The switch might be a cheap VIKA or similar and possibly still be good but with old cars and new parts quality as I put or its fitting, or when rooting around looking for the problem with the old part or fitting the new something might have ben upset, disturbed or damaged other than the new parts or the new parts.

Like you I have seen enough about parts fitted to car not to rule too much out or too much in but some things can be that common they should be considered at least, certainly not dismissed and not checked.

My first thought would be to call a locksmith or go the whole mechanism to him to remove the broken part of the key and with the spare (that every driver keeps in house) to make a copy.

Now he has one new key for engine start and the 2nd factory key for lock-unlock the doors and for the trunk,fuel cap.

Sorry for not updating everyone...

It turned out to be the BRAKE FLUID (?!)

When it just got back from the mechanic they actually left one of my ventnipples open so all my brakefluid dipped and I almost crashed... turns out if your brake fluid container is empty the car won't turn off?

Anyways I fixed it and now the problem is gone!

You didn't had a warning red light in the cluster? Weird.

So the mechanic refill the brake fluid reservoir, remove the air bubbles and now the car turns-off when you turn the key (as in a normal car) ?

2 hours ago, Storrum said:

When it just got back from the mechanic they actually left one of my ventnipples open so all my brakefluid dipped and I almost crashed... turns out if your brake fluid container is empty the car won't turn off?

Thanks for reporting back.

But it does not sound right to me. I initially thought you meant brake fluid had got somewhere electrical. The bleed nipples are usually on the brake callipers and brake slave wheel cylinders at the wheels and if not shut off you usually/often feel the effect on the brake pedal. And it sounds like from D.FYLAKTOS's post that you have a warning light for low brake fluid in the reservoir (perhaps that lit up too late).

Good that it is sorted though, but strange connection that should not be.

Edited 27 March, 20251 yr by nta16
typos

On 27/03/2025 at 18:35, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You didn't had a warning red light in the cluster? Weird.

So the mechanic refill the brake fluid reservoir, remove the air bubbles and now the car turns-off when you turn the key (as in a normal car) ?

Nope, did it myself since with someone who has done it enough times to help me out. but yeah now the ccar just turns off and I can take the key out without it still being turned on

On 27/03/2025 at 21:17, nta16 said:

Thanks for reporting back.

But it does not sound right to me. I initially thought you meant brake fluid had got somewhere electrical. The bleed nipples are usually on the brake callipers and brake slave wheel cylinders at the wheels and if not shut off you usually/often feel the effect on the brake pedal. And it sounds like from D.FYLAKTOS's post that you have a warning light for low brake fluid in the reservoir (perhaps that lit up too late).

Good that it is sorted though, but strange connection that should not be.

I am guessing the warning light might be broken / old, I have noticed some lights in my dash won't stay on from time to time so I gotta checke the electrical out in there!

Yes I did feel the brake was a bit easier to push down at first but I just thought there was a bunch of air in it and that they took that out. Eventually I tried to make an emergency stop and almost crashed because I felt like I just pushed through the brake pedal so I immediately (very carefully, I was not that far away from home) drove home.

It is indeed a strange occurence but maybe one day someone has the exact same issue as me and will find this helpfull lol

Having had old cars from my earliest driving days I've experienced having to use the gears and handbrake to help with braking on occasions never the less having a pedal go straight down unexpectedly is startling, even clutch or accelerator let alone brake pedal!

For panel lights you may already do this but I'm in the habit of checking all the warning lights that should come on do when turning the ignition on, I never just put the key in and start the engine, then when the engine has started quick check that gauges are showing what I would expect and no warning light on that should not be. Of course a light being intermittent or coming on and off when it should not just about rules out its use if it is giving a false report.

Do not put off checking the dash lights as it may be something trivial and easy fix or might be the start of more troubles or serious stuff. Personally anything electrical like that I start at the battery terminal post clamp connections (and main earths) and go forward from there, but you might start at the dash and go back. Sod's Law which ever end you start at the problem will be at or nearer the other end unless you are lucky.

Good luck.

3 hours ago, Storrum said:

I can take the key out without it still being turned on

So you have one key for the ignition and another one for fuel cap-trunk door?

Yeah I have a different key for ignition because I had to replace the old one which was already a replacement