Hi All, did my spark plugs today and noticed that there seems to be a bit of oil in the plug threads, is this indicative of an issue?

That doesn't look anything to be worried about, unless your engine seems to use oil, or more than it should. It could be a residue of something the last person put on the threads to ease later removal, copper grease does break down a little like this.

There only seems to be three, so I'm guessing a 1.0 engine.

I have the 1.2 4cyl, and cannot get the coils to let go of the plugs. Did yours come off easily, or was there a struggle? Any tips for getting the coils off?

Thanks.

I'm no expert (in anything) but I'd not worry about those plugs. Very good idea that you have changed them, or at least checked them, particularly on a VW engine IMO (VW don't have the experience that the old Japanese 3-cylinder, and much smaller capacity, had in them).

You'd have to check but I think the spark plugs come self-lubricated now so no copper-grease or the like is used.

48 minutes ago, NigelC95 said:

That doesn't look anything to be worried about, unless your engine seems to use oil, or more than it should. It could be a residue of something the last person put on the threads to ease later removal, copper grease does break down a little like this.

There only seems to be three, so I'm guessing a 1.0 engine.

I have the 1.2 4cyl, and cannot get the coils to let go of the plugs. Did yours come off easily, or was there a struggle? Any tips for getting the coils off?

Thanks.

Hey Nigel! Thanks for your response.

I did think it's not much to worry about, it doesn't seem to be consuming oil yet. You are right that it's the 1L 3cyl MPI Engine

I managed to get the coil packs off pretty easily but I picked up one of these tools to aid me. A bit pricey but it does stop the coils and boot from seperating, then you need to rock back and forward for a while (up to 5 mins for one of mine) to get them off but they do eventually come. I applied a thin layer of silicone grease on the edges of the inside of the coil so hoping it's much easier next time. These were the original plugs from new.

https://amzn.eu/d/gGgX4Gh

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

I'm no expert (in anything) but I'd not worry about those plugs. Very good idea that you have changed them, or at least checked them, particularly on a VW engine IMO (VW don't have the experience that the old Japanese 3-cylinder, and much smaller capacity, had in them).

You'd have to check but I think the spark plugs come self-lubricated now so no copper-grease or the like is used.

Yeah that's right they have a coated thread now to stop them from seizing so no anti seize or copper grease required. Although that doesn't mean the plugs weren't pulled by a garage and greased up I suppose during the warranty period.

I have replaced them now with brand new plugs, I pulled them with the intention of replacing regardless of condition as they are 4 years old on 28k miles

51 minutes ago, NigelC95 said:

I have the 1.2 4cyl, and cannot get the coils to let go of the plugs. Did yours come off easily, or was there a struggle? Any tips for getting the coils off?

Thanks.

As my wife's car is a 2015 1.2 TSI (90) I can (ETA: also) cover this question as I did consider buying the special spark plug spanner, coil-puller and grease/lubricant for coil (one of the end ones mainly) and of course the plugs, but as my wife said she'd not have the car 4 years later the additional cost and investment in dedicated tools wasn't worth it compared to just paying the Dealership £99 at the time.

I will find the suggestions for DIY coil-pullers for you and post here.

5 minutes ago, skinnypete45 said:

Although that doesn't mean the plugs weren't pulled by a garage and greased up I suppose during the warranty period.

Good point, you never know what goes on unless you do it yourself, but my guess is a Dealership would be doing the quickest, shortest method that involved the least materials to save them time and expense (unless it's chargeable to manufacturer or customer. An old independent garage or old mechanic might do though, same as copper-grease isn't recommended for use with brake pads now.

11 minutes ago, skinnypete45 said:

I have replaced them now with brand new plugs, I pulled them with the intention of replacing regardless of condition as they are 4 years old on 28k miles

I'm with you on that. You can get I think the more expensive type plugs that last longer, I'd guess you'd want to add the grease then for the next plug change many years and miles later. Out of interests which grease did you use, "ordinary" silicone, VW labelled, other?

3 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Good point, you never know what goes on unless you do it yourself, but my guess is a Dealership would be doing the quickest, shortest method that involved the least materials to save them time and expense (unless it's chargeable to manufacturer or customer. An old independent garage or old mechanic might do though, same as copper-grease isn't recommended for use with brake pads now.

I'm with you on that. You can get I think the more expensive type plugs that last longer, I'd guess you'd want to add the grease then for the next plug change many years and miles later. Out of interests which grease did you use, "ordinary" silicone, VW labelled, other?

I think it was the car dealer (non skoda) that did the first service, and then halfords for the second one (I did not know better then)

Full disclosure this is the first time I ever have done it. But I just put a light smearing of silverhook silicone grease in the boot with a cotton bud. No grease on the threads as they are coated from factory (NGK) . I was reccomended this stuff as safe to use and I've not had any problems so far, although it has only been a day

Edited 4 May, 20251 yr by skinnypete45

@Ootohere could you do me a favour please and post your photos of DIY coil pullers or link to post/thread as I know they're in here somewhere but can't find it, even via Google.

.

Cable-ties (zip-ties) and wire coat hanger wire can also be DIY tools.

I know Amazon link was an example but just to show Amazon often isn't the lowest priced supplier, and staying with ZKTOOL as tool manufacturer and/or supplier. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364861419635

@NigelC95 if I can find it (!) there was a reasonable video, which I'll post here, about replacing the spark plugs (a PITA job because of air filter box on 2015 1.2 TSI) which includes pulling the coil plugs without proper tool - but for the sake of £15 (or less) getting and using the tool would be the better option if possible.

Thanks guys for the responses so far. I have the coil puller tool, and th e coils lift out of the cam cover easily, however, the rubber boots are firmly stuck to the plugs. All I'm doing is stretching the boots, which of course, tightens their grip. No success getting anythign down to the bottom of the boot to lift it from its lower edge either. Despite the stretching, no misfires, but it looks like I will have to destroy the coils to get them out.

@NigelC95 I gave up looking for the video I was thinking of but found the following instead which is a good video, certainly better than most videos on car service work.

He does have the proper type pliers for those German style sprung self-closing clamps which is a great help (and another tool and cost and storage of tool) but with more effort (and PITA-ery) you can use other pliers (and swearing). How he can wear those gloves is beyond me.

I personally would always remove the engine air filter box, clean it inside and out, and replace the filter too as the VW interval for engine air filter change is too long for me as car engines are basically giant air pumps on wheels so you want as much clean air going in as possible. No doubt there more than enough air going in by the design but some cars get more debris than others in use and when parked up. But that's just me.

20 minutes ago, NigelC95 said:

Thanks guys for the responses so far. I have the coil puller tool, and th e coils lift out of the cam cover easily, however, the rubber boots are firmly stuck to the plugs. All I'm doing is stretching the boots, which of course, tightens their grip. No success getting anythign down to the bottom of the boot to lift it from its lower edge either. Despite the stretching, no misfires, but it looks like I will have to destroy the coils to get them out.

This is the reason for the grease stuff. Don't twist the connector tubes (in a circular rotation motion) but rock them instead. You may need to try with things warmed if trying cold hasn't worked or warm, cool/cold cycles (hair dryer, engine heat for warm). When cold I might try a gentle spray of GT85 (shake can first then spray). IIRC it's number one that's the main PITA to get out so try getting opposite end out first to give a confidence boost.

ETA: clean area after, without leaving or getting anything into that area or engine of course.

https://gt85.co.uk/

Edited 4 May, 20251 yr by nta16

Another thing, make sure the extractor tool is fully and securely fitted and located to get as much grip as possible, (without over doing it of course).

Sometimes only lots of time and patience work.

Lots of swearing in your head or out loud helps some, or hinder others. My wife told me long ago that when working on our cars I have four swear words that I repeat in a cycle. 🙃 When I'm doing (small) jobs on neighbours' cars I'm normally very patient but on our car(s), and this VW product of hers particularly, much, much less so.

Just an observation, the puller tool that the OP posted the Amazon link for, has been assembled correctly, the asttools.co.uk tool the guy on the video used has the "finger grip" bar fitted up side down.

Edit:- someone once mentioned stuffing compressed down the extension contact to convince it to give up its grip, I've done that job only 3 times and so far so good - ie no issues with lifting the coils up.

Edited 4 May, 20251 yr by rum4mo

Thanks again.

The vid seemed to make it look harder than it is, but at least for him the coils popped off. If only mine would. Not sure why he put some grease on the end face, it is supposed to be inside where the rubber snout grips the plug body.

Getting it hot, then wriggling them seems a good idea, I'll have a go tomorrow. If that does not work, I'll let it cool a fair bit, then try the compressed air. Cold air into a hot aperture might not be clever.

Not sure how WD40/GT85 will get under the coil snout, likely to just make a mess.

If none of this works, I'll attack with a scalpel, destroy the coil snouts, and bite the bullet with new ones.

8 hours ago, rum4mo said:

tool the guy on the video used has the "finger grip" bar fitted up side down

Good spot. I was too distracted by the oversized gloves.

8 hours ago, NigelC95 said:

Not sure why he put some grease on the end face, it is supposed to be inside where the rubber snout grips the plug body.

He puts up an illustration (very quickly) in the video and the one that came out had the grease in the same place, perhaps he put that there the previous time he done the work, seems reasonable enough to me, and he used Liqui Moly a favourite for German cars. Must admit I'd not seen that application shown before but it seems reasonable enough and the boot came out fairly easily.

ETA: I'd want to avoid getting anything on the sparkplug top/cap.

8 hours ago, NigelC95 said:

Not sure how WD40/GT85 will get under the coil snout, likely to just make a mess.

Use GT85, with its straw, as it's a better lubricant, penetrating/releasing agent not WD-40 Multi-Use (through both are made by the invasive American corporation that is WD-40 Company), only use as much as is required, it won't make a mess, it's also a cleaner too, and as I put you can clean area anyway to get rid of anything that might have help to hold the bot tight.

It's your car and you're doing the job so you do it the way you prefer.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Edited 5 May, 20251 yr by nta16
ETA:

@rum4mo as you've done the job three times, hopefully at least twice on the same car to confirm effectiveness, what "grease" did you use and where did you apply it?

27 minutes ago, nta16 said:

@rum4mo as you've done the job three times, hopefully at least twice on the same car to confirm effectiveness, what "grease" did you use and where did you apply it?

I'll own up to being a bit stupid/trying to do the right thing, and bought a small tube of a "bespoke" dielectric grease for doing that job (for tuning up ignition systems!) ! My 20 years old tube of "expired by use date" from work, that I use on the front calliper guide bolts would probably done the job just as well.

Just one thing, first time round, I "recovered" as much as possible of the grease from the old plug and each extension contact, and re-applied it on the correct areas. That original grease was white in colour - maybe that colouring is added in to improve quality inspection on the assembly line - ie visibility - or maybe something more important, I don't know.

I could see me buying tube of that Silverhook silicon grease when my current old tube refuses to part with any more grease, I think Toolstation or Screwfix sell it.

19 hours ago, nta16 said:

When cold I might try a gentle spray of GT85 (shake can first then spray).

I should have added (spray) then leave to soak in for a while (with rusted/seized nuts, bolts, studs, etc. overnight at least) for this job a mug of tea and two biscuits (you might need the energy).

2 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

I'll own up to being a bit stupid/trying to do the right thing

Never stupid to try to do the right thing, finding out what is a right thing can be the difficult part.

19 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

That original grease was white in colour - maybe that colouring is added in to improve quality inspection on the assembly line - ie visibility

I'm not sure about assembly line originally altho' I could well be wrong as I am many times each day, I wonder if this "greasing" is something the mechanics discovered rather than the engineers prescription as it seems to be more needed on one than the other three (or two?) and a bit of an added in note on instructions.

Whatever type of "grease" that's used it needs to be OK with whatever type of "rubber"(?) the boot is made of, I expect Liqui Moly would have check with the manufactured part. I'm (pretty) sure for those that prefer there will be a VW labelled sachet/tube of "grease" which will have a VW part number. If I was doing the job if this VW labelled "grease" wasn't too over-priced I'd buy it as part of the additional costs of servicing the marque and to ensure the boot comes out as easy as possible should I need to get at a plug or for next replacement for myself or the next person.

12 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Never stupid to try to do the right thing, finding out what is a right thing can be the difficult part.

I'm not sure about assembly line originally altho' I could well be wrong as I am many times each day, I wonder if this "greasing" is something the mechanics discovered rather than the engineers prescription as it seems to be more needed on one than the other three (or two?) and a bit of an added in note on instructions.

Whatever type of "grease" that's used it needs to be OK with whatever type of "rubber"(?) the boot is made of, I expect Liqui Moly would have check with the manufactured part. I'm (pretty) sure for those that prefer there will be a VW labelled sachet/tube of "grease" which will have a VW part number. If I was doing the job if this VW labelled "grease" wasn't too over-priced I'd buy it as part of the additional costs of servicing the marque and to ensure the boot comes out as easy as possible should I need to get at a plug or for next replacement for myself or the next person.

In the maintenance doc it just says "coat with silicone paste" there's no part numbers listed but I assume that there might be one in the dealers internal catalogue. From my research online it's apparently all pretty much the same stuff and silicone grease and paste are interchangeable

After making my last posting on this topic, I went looking for the "stuff" that the youtuber used, and put it on my ebay watch list - then went back to check it closely, it is Liquid Moly's offering for use on injectors and glow plugs - from that intended use I'm guessing that it is a high temperature anti seize paste for use on metal-metal threaded parts so that removing them can be a bit more predictable/possible/easy.

So, now I'll remove that from my "might buy for this job" as it might not "agree" with the plastic/rubber contact extension's body and that would be counterproductive next time round.

It was Permatex ignition grease that I bought and used, it has now gone into hiding in my "organised" garage - I must sort that out and return it to where it should have been stored - or buy in another small tube of it!

Edit:- also showing people how to use a ratchet and/or torque wrench single handed is not being too clever, better if he used a stand for his camera so that proper ways of using tools could be employed.

Edited 5 May, 20251 yr by rum4mo

33 minutes ago, skinnypete45 said:

In the maintenance doc it just says "coat with silicone paste" there's no part

Does it say where to coat these "ignition coil sealing hoses"?

I take it back I wouldn't buy the VW (G 052 565 A1) labelled grease! - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/g052565a1/silicone-paste