Hi all,

Apologies if this has been covered, but I've searched and searched and haven't quite found the information I'm after:

I'd like to fit some additional DRLs, but in yellow, probably somewhere around the fog lights area (pic and link attached as an example)

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EII0y20

Now I know some might laugh at the idea, but it's inspired by lorries that have a large array of lights... Just bit more subtle.

My question is, how would I go about wiring them with a switch in the cab?

I'd like to fit a small rocker switch on one of the blank buttons in front of the gear stick. Plenty of posts have mentioned people wiring light bars etc to come on with main beam, but I'd like to have these DRLs on a separate switch to turn them on and off at will, more than likely only when the ignition is on as I can be quite forgetful.

I'm fine with the physical act of basic wiring one I know what I need, but please explain in layman's terms what I'd need to wire in and to where (relays etc.)

Thanks!

Edited 19 November, 202519 Nov by BaldyLex

Personally, I'd find the wire for the sidelight within the headlight unit and tap into that - seems like the easiest option. There's a few options for splicing a wire out to the side of an existing feed - I've done this on a few cars and then wrapped the splice in electrical tape or used marine heat shrink - it's not the best practice, but all the things I've done on my cars are years old and still going strong - you just have to make sure you secure the splice from swinging around with cable ties or similar.

If you're dead set on separate switching, I have a few accessories powered from a basic latching push button, fitted into the steering column cover, just behind the ignition key barrel - these wires can run through the dash (dealers choice of where they go) and then through the cable grommet in the firewall between the cab and the engine bay - this is best accessed by removing the battery, and you can then see where all the wires go.

Then it's just a case of feeding and securing the wires around the edge of the engine bay, till you reach the lights - I'd recommend feeding both headlights around the left side of the engine bay (battery and fusebox side) and feeding cable for the right headlight round the front of the engine bay, where it should be cooler.

Then for power, you can either get 12v by splicing from an existing circuit, or I'd recommend getting a fuse tap from the fusebox behind the glovebox, feeding a 2-core wire to the switch (1 core for power there and 1 core for switched power back), and then you can feed a single core cable through to the lights (splice off the cable for the R headlight from behind the L headlight).

For negative, just find a nearby chassis ground and put a cable with a crimped eye onto that - there's one directly behind the L headlight that is empty.
Just make sure everything is rated for the amps you expect to draw, and that no cables are insecure or able to be damaged by heat.

My go-to tools for vehicle wiring are as follows:
1x Box of various solder heat shrink connectors

1x Box of various crimp terminals

1x Stripper and crimper

1x Cable snips

1x Bag of smaller cable ties

1x Box of various sizes heat shrink 4:1 marine (those last 2 points are important)

1x heat gun

1x Box of various splices

Usual tools such as screwdrivers/pliers/knife, etc

Good luck and remember, any positive wire you're running should be fused.

On 23/12/2025 at 14:23, SpaceWalrus said:

Personally, I'd find the wire for the sidelight within the headlight unit and tap into that - seems like the easiest option. There's a few options for splicing a wire out to the side of an existing feed - I've done this on a few cars and then wrapped the splice in electrical tape or used marine heat shrink - it's not the best practice, but all the things I've done on my cars are years old and still going strong - you just have to make sure you secure the splice from swinging around with cable ties or similar.

If you're dead set on separate switching, I have a few accessories powered from a basic latching push button, fitted into the steering column cover, just behind the ignition key barrel - these wires can run through the dash (dealers choice of where they go) and then through the cable grommet in the firewall between the cab and the engine bay - this is best accessed by removing the battery, and you can then see where all the wires go.

Then it's just a case of feeding and securing the wires around the edge of the engine bay, till you reach the lights - I'd recommend feeding both headlights around the left side of the engine bay (battery and fusebox side) and feeding cable for the right headlight round the front of the engine bay, where it should be cooler.

Then for power, you can either get 12v by splicing from an existing circuit, or I'd recommend getting a fuse tap from the fusebox behind the glovebox, feeding a 2-core wire to the switch (1 core for power there and 1 core for switched power back), and then you can feed a single core cable through to the lights (splice off the cable for the R headlight from behind the L headlight).

For negative, just find a nearby chassis ground and put a cable with a crimped eye onto that - there's one directly behind the L headlight that is empty.
Just make sure everything is rated for the amps you expect to draw, and that no cables are insecure or able to be damaged by heat.

My go-to tools for vehicle wiring are as follows:
1x Box of various solder heat shrink connectors

1x Box of various crimp terminals

1x Stripper and crimper

1x Cable snips

1x Bag of smaller cable ties

1x Box of various sizes heat shrink 4:1 marine (those last 2 points are important)

1x heat gun

1x Box of various splices

Usual tools such as screwdrivers/pliers/knife, etc

Good luck and remember, any positive wire you're running should be fused.

Thank you very much. Mainly for the useful information but also for not laughing at my weird idea 😂

I'll most likely be back with some follow up questions once I've done a bit of digging around the car to weigh the job up and see if it looks like it'll be worth the headache. Thanks again