Can anyone please guide me through the procedure for replacing front coil springs on my Rapid 2014.Are any special tools needed.Many thanks, Graham

It's fairly involved - and the workshop manual does list a lot of VW special tools - but that doesn't mean to say a competent garage needs all of them. The struts have to come out to achieve this and this means fighting a range of suspension bolts which haven't moved for 12 years. Unless you like cursing while skinning your knuckles lying on your back in the sleet I'd be looking for a professional. The springs themselves will certainly need a set of proper compressors to remove and fit the new springs.

Doing this job on a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 back in 2006 or early 2007 was my introduction to working on VW Group cars, it was a horrible wake up call, made worse by me needing to start that job on the 2nd of January. I had by that time "plenty" tools, but still needed to buy quite a few to make that job possible/easier.

A hub carrier expander bit or strut/hub splitter, to make removing the struts from the hub carrier, same as Laser Tools 3396.

32mm Bihex slim walled socket, to remove the RHS drive shaft nut.

M14 multi spline or XZN bit, to remove the strut/hub clamping point bolt.

Starting on the LHS first will let you learn about this job before you need to remove the drive shaft from the hub on the RHS so that you can drop the hub down low enough to get the strut out of the hub carrier - the LHS does not have this issue.

Though maybe like me, it is the RHS spring that has broken, so the tendency is to sort the already broken side first!

I'm assuming here that you already have a good set of spanners, sockets and torque wrenches, and other useful workshop lifting and supporting devices.

Edit:- there is also a list of parts that you need to buy other than just a pair of suitable springs.

Edited 11 January11 Jan by rum4mo

I do my own on my Octavia and other cars but have a tripple set of spring compressors that you can lock in place. Last time I added a couple of older style ones just in case. Still scary as ****. If you can get the strut off my local garage used to swap the springs over for a small donation to their lunch fund. They have the proper compressor much safer tool.

Main problem I found was the top mount securing bolts tend to seize over time and can break the welded encapsulated nuts so just turn. Have had to cut them off a few times Give them a good spray with releasol from the underside of the suspension turret for a few days beforehand. I used a small cold chisel to gently open gap between strut and hub. If I remember correctly some of the bolts are use once and throw away. You may need a special open socket to remove shock top bolt so you can stop it turning

Don't need to worry about the welded encapsulated nuts on these cars, they have the later way of fixing the top mountings, just weight of the car and a top plate thing.

Which is probably why most of these cars that have that set up make lots of croaking/groaning noises especially in colder weather!

I tend to use "drive through" or "Vortex" sockets to get the strut piston nuts off and back on tight enough "not too move" before using a normal socket to torque them up.

For some maybe perverse reason/logic, I've left it until I had done hopefully my last job of that sort, for a while, that can be made easier if using these open sided sockets, before finally buying a set!

Same here done a fair few over the years and only now have the open sockets in my tool box. Hope I wont need them if you know what I mean. Last one had to cut the main strut nut off as it was so tight the allen key centre rounded.

Alasdair

I refreshed the suspension on my wife's 2015 VW Polo a year or so ago, unfortunately, while under warranty, the supplying main dealer replaced the top mounting on one side, the strut piston nut on that side was really difficult to remove as it's thread was damaged from that workshop's efforts to sort out the warranty problem (noises from suspension), the one on the other side and all others that I have been first to remove after initial factory/supplier assembly have all been easy to get off.

The only reason that I wanted to take the old front struts apart was to retrieve the plastic "basket" that acts as a retainer for the strut protective boot as you can't buy them new, and I wasn't going to buy VW Group struts which probably would have come with them already fitted.

Many thanks for all the advice you all gave me.It is really reassuring to know that there are people around with the knowledge to help others and are willing to pass on that advice. I uTubed it as a guide and everything went really well. The biggest problem I had was grinding the wall and the bevel on the mouth of the 32mm hub nut socket as I bought a standard one ☹️ and was well on the way with the job so too late to reassemble and change it. Apart from that the job was a complete success. Once again many thanks to you all. Graham 👍👍

Top wrenching. Well done. More than I fancy doing.

I did buy a pair of springs so if ever I feel like a workout finishing off with backache its on standby.Thanks anyway. 😅

I usually buy two as well especially if the old ones have been on car for a while. Have had a couple of cars that didnt quite sit level due to one spring replacement as older one I assume being weaker/different make. I generally change any suspension/steering items in pairs especially front.

Alasdair