Looking at acquiring a spare engine for our CBZB-equipped Roomster, and some of the better value looking ones are CBZAs rather than CBZBs.

Wondering if anyone has knowledge of what hardware differences there are, if any, between these engine codes?

Candidate items that might differ strike me as being things like injectors, turbo, throttle body??

Probably something I can painstakingly look up part by part, but being lazy and hoping someone can tell me. 😁

Thanks for any info.

nope same everything, just different tune and gearbox, i've tuned my cbza to 140 bhp with a non completely healty gearbox (MFX) bit of whining noise diff noise, all gears whining, so tuned and Yokhoama semislick (ad08rs) destroyed the gearbox (due also to vibration from all bushing in polyurethane 90 shore koni yellow hard race brace and other things) so, I've used an LMG gearbox that is a standard one for the 105 bhp cbzb same bolt pattern same starter motor same clutch and flywheel same driveshaft the lot just different shaft bearings and stiffer component in the gearbox (I can tell you 100% sure because was all DIY done by only me) i can provide you a couple of vin sourced from junkyard of fabia with cbza and cbzb so if you look on skoda-parts.com you can check te various parts

Thanks Jack, that's very helpful.

Much appreciated.

You're welcome,

if it can help,

Fabia hatch montecarlo 1.2 TSI CBZA TMBJM65J4E3028175 MFA gearbox (manual 5 speed) Manufactured 7.8.2013

Fabia combi montecarlo 1.2 TSI CBZB TMBFN65J6C3078950 LMG gearbox (manual 5 speed) Manufactured 25.10.2011

the only possible difference due to the production year are the abs module from 8.2i for the 2011 and abs 9.0i from 2012 onwards

(the 9.0i can be retrofitted, i will probably try to do that beacause i have already the abs module in the garage, mainly there is some adaptation differences, like brake configuration that is possible to code)

(the car are bot scrapped and probably a metal cube)

Edited 13 March13 Mar by Jack25

Thanks Jack.

I've made a screenshot in case those get removed by an over-keen mod.

you're very welcome, for any needs feel free to reach out!

If i can ask, are you going to swap it your self or a mechanic?

Definitely myself.

But not definitely doing it yet.

The current engine may be worth doing some work on, even though it has high mileage; it sounds healthy.

It just has hesitation from low revs, so my partner who is the main driver complains it is difficult to pull out from junctions with confidence. The fuel economy is also worse than I expect.

I know the turbo actuator has play where it attaches, and I know the chain timing is being reported by VCDS as a problem.

More info here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531352-petes-rescue-roomster/

ok got it, if i can give some advice, (i don't know if you have done it yet), to remove the gearbox disconnect both driveshaft, you can remove just the shorter one (in UK the passenger side one), and start to loose all the gearbox housing bolts, do not remove them yet, remove the lover mount (pendulum mount) use an engine stand like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F374957660842&ved=0CBkQjhxqFwoTCPi6lZ2ZnZMDFQAAAAAdAAAAABA-&opi=89978449

place and tight a ratchet straps around the gearbox be sure to not damage te reverse switch and attach it in one of the hook of the engine stand, the other hook place it in the engine 'holder' located btween the charge pipe and the tsi cover, remove the right upper gearbox mount, then remove the previous loseen bolt, then you will be able to move the gearbox eiggle it a bit just to fee it up, lower the hook of the engine and simultanusly lover the gearbox, from the passenger wheel well you will be abel to see the two bolt that old in place the gearbox mount, a black c shaped bracket, once removed you will be able to lower the gearbox lowering gently using the hook, to install is a reverse order, but for the c bracket, you will need to bolt in the gearbox first then lower the engine bolt-it back and you're good, for the clutch pressur plate you will need a 12 point socket, i'vw used this set: HASKYY https://amzn.eu/d/0ce3Z97n the pressure plate bolt are this one https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n90320701-clutch-screw-m7x14-germany-oe-producer-10902.html to lock the fly wheel i've used this tool BGS 9616

Edited 13 March13 Mar by Jack25

An interesting thread. So helpful from Jack.

Yep, very welcome contributions, just what I was hoping for.

There's a cbza on ebay with only 43k miles on it that's tempting (123k less than current cbzb).

If I can create enough space in my garage to store it for a while I may grab it.

Thanks guys I really appreciate it.

43k miles is really good deal, I was worried of mine reaching 113k miles, if you want to give it a look I can link a thread of my Fabia in an Italian Skoda forum, (you will need to just translate it from the browser settings), I’ve converted it to basically a Fabia full optional, just missing the climatronic and mfd cluster, I’ve found a guide to convert to a climatronic, and still working on the mfd, currently I have a abs 9.0i wating in the garage and next project is a bcm max conversion (from p/n 6r0 to 7e)

https://www.skodaclub.it/index.php?topic=20693.0