I am looking to buy a high mileage 2016 DGS 1.2 litre Skoda Yeti with over 100k miles on the clock

The buy price is £6k, which to me is a lot of money

I am thinking of paying for either an AA vehicle inspection or an RAC inspection. Will look to buy the advanced one if I go ahead.

Are these vehicle inspections worth it, or should I just go ahead and buy the car?

Hello, definitely worth having the inspection IMO.

Just now, Warrior193 said:

Hello, definitely worth having the inspection IMO.

Which one would be best the RAC one or AA ?

Is it dealer or private sale? Does it have service history?

Probably no difference, does the inspection scope of both look similar?

The car is a Skoda Yeti 1.2 ltr petrol 2016 plate DSG gearbox. It is on 125k miles
It has a service history, but the only recorded service goes to 70k miles. Dealer is saying a service has recently been done but he has no invoice as of yet for it. Brake discs and pads are new.

It is a dealer sale with a 3-month warranty from the garage itself nowhere else.

Possibly it was serviced at an independent garage with no access to electronic service records - the inspection should give some indication if servicing has been neglected.

13 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Possibly it was serviced at an independent garage with no access to electronic service records - the inspection should give some indication if servicing has been neglected.

You're right, it was an independent garage

The AA or RAC inspection is unlikely to pick up any issue with the DQ200 DSG. For that best take along for a roadtest a friend familiar with these and get a long road test. Check the service history, spark plugs and Air Filter last changed (open air box and look.) . Check the tyres, brakes, look at discs, wipers, windscreen (no chips) etc etc. Give the car an inspection, or have a family member or friend with mechanical knowledge do that. PS. sorry missed discs and brake pads are new. What does the past MOT,s look like, any advisories in the last 2 MOT,s. Any outstanding. Does the Dealership have a MOT Examiner?

Edited 30 March30 Mar by Evolution13

Thanks to all for your responses. I went ahead with the AA inspection. The guy who did it said it was a good car; however, after I asked him a few questions about the car, he was a bit hesitant. I don't think he did the full inspection I paid for, and most likely cut a few corners. I won't buy another inspection again. Anyway, I went ahead and bought the car. I also bought the Carista OBD diagnostic device and plugged that in a day after the car was delivered ( will use it again on my next car before buying it ) . The car came up with a load of electrical faults. After doing a bit of research, it turns out the most likely cause is that the seller replaced the battery and didn't code it to the ECU, which I have now done, along with clearing the faults. I've left it for a few days and will do another check tomorrow, hoping the faults don't show up.

2 hours ago, iphammer said:

Thanks to all for your responses. I went ahead with the AA inspection. The guy who did it said it was a good car; however, after I asked him a few questions about the car, he was a bit hesitant. I don't think he did the full inspection I paid for, and most likely cut a few corners. I won't buy another inspection again. Anyway, I went ahead and bought the car. I also bought the Carista OBD diagnostic device and plugged that in a day after the car was delivered ( will use it again on my next car before buying it ) . The car came up with a load of electrical faults. After doing a bit of research, it turns out the most likely cause is that the seller replaced the battery and didn't code it to the ECU, which I have now done, along with clearing the faults. I've left it for a few days and will do another check tomorrow, hoping the faults don't show up.

The inspection really should have spotted those historic faults - was a reader plugged into the OBD port during the inspection?

One thing to consider is, if a car has needed a battery change, then probably, if the car had been "supported with a memory saver" while that duff battery was being replaced, then quite a few fault codes will have been generated simply due to that old battery becoming U/S. I always copy and/or save/print out all fault codes on my family cars BEFORE clearing them, that seems to work for me and allows me to refer back if any problems re-appear - instead of remembering/guessing what previous fault codes had been stored. On more modern cars, even if the car has not "supported" during a battery replacement, there could initially be some fault codes generated that could live on in the relevant controllers.