Hello all

My check engine light is on and when I plugged in my reader it gave me this P0113 code that apparently means the intake air temperature is reading abnormally high and it's likely a fault with the sensor. I'd like to replace the sensor myself but for the life of me I can't seem to find where it's located.

I think it's possibly one of the three I've highlighted in the image. I've also attached a close up of each sensor if that helps.

I just can't figure out which one is the temperature sensor or if none of them are and I'm in totally the wrong place.

Any help is much appreciated.

Kind regards

It's a petrol 1.2 TSI engine I believe - year 2016

1) is the intake charged air sensor

2) is the brake vacuum sensor

Hi Rum4mo, thanks for that.

Looking at a intake charged air sensor is the same as the intake air temperature sensor? Just want to be 100%

The arrow for 3 is the top picture, I should of labelled the picture itself and not just named it. My mistake

I’ve forgotten what/where the 3) one is, it might even be the same part number as 1).

Plus I’m not a home at the moment.

Ideally you would check to see what 1)’s signals are using a scan tool.

Edit:- I’d guess that 1) and 3) are MAP sensors so both contain a temperature sensor, 1) monitoring the Turbo O/P and 3) monitoring the inlet manifold box near the cylinder inlet.

Edited 3 June3 Jun by rum4mo

I’ve just edited my previous post.

Oh ok, so it could be one or both of these where it's reading the temperature as too high.

I'll see if I can find the replacement parts, hopefully I can just swap them out myself.

Thanks for the help

Parts in Motion list for £23.24

It is a Bosch part and both VAG and Bosch part numbers are listed on it,

Ie 03G 906 051 E

and 0281 002 977

I’d change the one on the inlet plenum/box first, and I’d doubt if both sensors will have a failed temperature probe.

Parts in Motion via their ebay store are very easy to deal with and fast despatch and so fast delivery in my experience.

Brilliant, I didn't even see that they were the same part. Thanks for your time with this, I really appreciate it

Don't change any until you have checked if they're faulty first, you can put a multimeter on them for basic checks, it may not be the sensor at fault but wiring or connection(s) there or elsewhere.

You are assuming your reader has given you a correct code, for a generic thing like this it probabaly has, but not all codes are strictly correct and often can be pionting at the messanger rather than the source(s) or cause(s) of the issue(s).

For identification you could look up the VW part numbers on the parts you have found for their VW description of the part and possibly more information.

Depending on the level of reader you're using you could perhaps swap the locations of the two identical (if they are) parts and see if that changes anything.

If the sensor is inexpensive and the correct part to register correctly for a reasonable period and you just wantto take the chance then fine, a cheap Chinese part might be fine and longer last or a proper VW part might confirm it wasn't the previous sensor at fault - or either sort the issue and it's over and done with, your car, time, money and hassle to dop as you see best. I've changed an inexpensive part before just to elinminate it from the possible equasions - but by experience I learnt to keep the old part for a while at least as many replacement parts could be anything from absymal to not too long lasting or fine and forgotten about.

Let us know how you get on.

ETA: possibly even cleaning it might sort things, depends on how dirty it is (car use history) and if it's cleaned correctly with correct cleaner.

@faxiw , any progress or update on this issue yet?

Sorry had an absolute nightmare so had to create a new account.

I've tried replacing the sensor but somehow it seems like the sensors on inlet plenum/box somehow get damaged almost every time they get plugged in and taken out. The little bulb seems to disintegrate slightly and the wire inside gets exposed. Probably isn't helping.

Though looks like it might be a wiring issue, when I have my reader plugged in looking at the intake air temperature it sits at -40 degrees. When I manipulate the wiring harness on the inlet plenum/box sensor the temperature changes on the reader. Does this sound like a wiring issue? Is that something that I'm able to resolve or this going to be a garage situation?

Kind regards

If moving the wiring changes any reading it points to either a break or a bad connection somewhere. I would first clean any plugs/sockets and make sure they are secure and making good contact. If it still changes when moving wiring I would suspect a break in a wire somewhere.

Alasdair

Still ongoing issues so thought I'd put an update in.

Took it to a garage to get a professional opinion. They swapped the sensor and then rewired the plug. All was good for a couple of days and then the light came back on and the air temp was reading 140 celsius this time, rather than -40/60 celsius previous.

Took it back again and they swapped the sensor out again and took another look at the plug and then once again it was ok for another couple of days before the light came back on.

Then the ECU light came on for fuel pressure, turns out the fuel rail came loose and pulled out the injectors apparently so I was peeing fuel all over the road. Managed to get it recovered and taken to the garage and they sorted out the fuel rail and once again replaced the sensor, this time with an original apparently and they were very confident that this time that it was all sorted. Now, once again the light has come back on.

I've got to think at this point that the sensors themselves are not the problem but a symptom, something is killing them. I'm going to take it back to the same garage for this final time to see if they can find something other than just swapping out the sensor. My only thought would be that it's electrical and something is blowing the electronics in the sensors. Looking around some people are mentioning it could be a grounding issue or the battery may need to be changed, or disconnected from the car for 24 hours to reset the ECU. I'm kind of at a loss at this point and praying the garage can figure it out. Maybe the code is a red herring.