Hi everyone,

I have a Skoda Felicia MPI, and I have been trying to diagnose a strange noise coming from the front of the car for quite a long time. I have attached a video so you can hear the noise.

The noise sounds like a metallic scraping or rubbing noise. It does not happen all the time. Sometimes it starts while driving at around 60 km/h, and other times it starts at around 80 km/h.

The most noticeable thing is how the noise changes when I turn the steering wheel:

• When the noise starts, turning the steering wheel slightly to the right makes it stop.

• Turning the steering wheel slightly to the left makes the noise start again.

• Turning further to the left makes the noise stop again.

• Lightly pressing the brake pedal also makes the noise stop.

I have already replaced the front brake discs, front brake pads, brake caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but the noise is still there.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem on a Skoda Felicia or another car? What would you recommend checking next?

I would really appreciate any suggestions, especially from anyone who has experienced the same symptoms.

Thanks in advance!

On 26/10/2026 at 08:51, Kastek said:

I have already replaced the front brake discs, front brake pads, brake caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but the noise is still there.

No need to replace parts with the logic ''if it's not this, it would be the other" etc, this is an money spend situation which never ends.

A mechanic can diagnose the wheel bearing when the car is on the lift-jack and turn each wheel by hand.Also turning the steering wheel full left-right and vice versa.

Have you ever check or replace the steering wheel fluid? Have you listen with the hood open and the car standing if the noise comes from a pulley?

Brake pads whistle when braking, the bent brake discs create vibrations while braking.

I had a situation with a grinding-squeaking noise while moving in reverse or when turning in U turns.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/541160-grinding-noise-in-reverse/

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

"Bu değilse, diğeri olur" mantığıyla parça değiştirmeye gerek yok, bu asla bitmeyen bir para harcama durumu.

Araç lift üzerindeyken, bir tamirci tekerlek yatağını teşhis edebilir ve her tekerleği elle çevirebilir. Ayrıca direksiyonu tamamen sola ve sağa, tamamen sola da çevirebilir.

Direksiyon hidroliğini kontrol ettiniz mi veya değiştirdiniz mi? Sesin bir kasnaktan gelip gelmediğini anlamak için kaputu açık ve araç dururken dinlediniz mi?

Fren balataları fren yaparken ıslık sesi çıkarır, eğilmiş fren diskleri ise frenleme sırasında titreşim yaratır.

Geri geri giderken veya U dönüşü yaparken gıcırdama benzeri bir ses duyuyordum.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/541160-grinding-noise-in-reverse/

Hello, first of all, thank you very much for your reply.

The car has been checked several times by different mechanics. It doesn't make this noise when stationary, and it doesn't happen all the time while driving either. When it does occur, it starts suddenly and stops as soon as I apply the brakes.

That's why we focused on the brake pads and discs, but unfortunately, replacing them didn't solve the problem.

Possible Causes & Diagnostic Steps

1. Bent or Rusted Brake Dust Shield:

• Why it happens: The metal plate behind the brake disc rusts easily on Felicias. If it is slightly bent or has accumulated rust around its perimeter, it comes into contact with the rotating rotor. When you turn the steering wheel, the microscopic shifting of the wheel causes it to touch or move away.

• What to do: Jack up the car, remove the wheel, and gently push the shield backward (away from the rotor) using a screwdriver. Clean off any flaking rust that might be rubbing against the disc.

2. CV Joints / Axle:

• Why it happens: A worn outer CV joint can produce a metallic noise that changes depending on the steering wheel angle.

• What to do: Inspect the rubber boots for any tears. If the grease has leaked out or water/dirt has gotten inside, the joint dries out and causes friction.

3. Suspension Mounts and Bushings (Control Arm Bushings):

• Why it happens: If the control arm bushings are worn out ("sagged"), the entire suspension strut shifts under load (e.g., at 60-80 km/h due to aerodynamic pressure and rolling resistance). This alters the alignment of the components, causing friction that disappears as soon as you turn.

• What to do: Use a pry bar to check for play (looseness) in the control arm bushings and the ball joints.

4. Improperly Seated or Defective New Wheel Bearing:

• Why it happens: Even though it was replaced, if the bearing was not pressed completely straight (properly seated) into the steering knuckle, the wheel hub may sit at a slight angle. This causes the brake rotor to wobble and rub against the brake pads. This explains why light braking makes the noise disappear.