The dealers said they had my car on there diognostic machine when they serviced it and it had no faults or active codes at all, even when they checked it again 5 days later ? is a VAG-COM different to there check and how much is one of those please?

CHEERS !!!!!! LEE

the car may not show any codes with a leak (boost or vac) as the ECU can adapt values up to a limit. By getting someone with vag com to do some simple logs you can see if the car is running rich or lean based on the values from Block 032 these 2 values let you know if the ECU is having to Add or Subtract fuel to keep the Lambda value at approx 1. The amount of adaptation is a good indicator as to whether there are any leaks. For example a value of +% on the IDLE indicates a VAC leak (IIRC) as the ECU is adding fuel to compensate for the unmetered air where a -% on the multiplicative(? think thats what its called) of -10% or higher is more than likely a boost leak

You can read about trims here: Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Fuel Trim Info

Note: an out of spec value is NOT a certain indicator of a leak, the car might be running rich/lean because of other factors, e.g. not enough fuel.

Hope this is the right thread for this...

I bought my 02 Octavia vRS (1.8T 20V version) in May 09 this year and have had an issue with the check engine light coming on and juddering/spluttering when idling and a power fall off when accelerating.

Skoda replaced a temperature sensor, a turbo hose and something else I forget, telling me that if that doesn't resolve the issue I'd need a new throttle valve.

Bear in mind, this was a Skoda dealership. I believe someone on page 1 mentioned the hoses that attach to the inlet manifold.

Well Skoda missed this:

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A terrible "repair" job done to one of those hoses. The repair had failed as you can see with the parts separated and as such I had a huge vacuum leak. I'm now trying to get some money back (so if anyone has any information that would help me with this pursuit, I'd be most grateful).

That is a fairly common repair to that pipe but normally would use a couple of clips as well. Or if you have the time replace the length altogether.

That is a fairly common repair to that pipe but normally would use a couple of clips as well. Or if you have the time replace the length altogether.

Yeah it wasn't clipped, so the pressure in the hose broke the connection. The fact that Skoda missed it (while they fitted a new cam belt as well, FYI, and it was in BECAUSE of a power/running issue).

Not only that it only took me 10 minutes to replace the damn thing and the new hose was a whopping 12 quid. I'm livid but I don't know how to go about getting some recompense from the garage.

Hi there !!!!

Its been a while but my car is finaly sorted after trying many things,problem turned out to be a split hose....the hose was sittuated right behind the manifold and was very awkward to get to apperently.the hose was quite small,approx 200mm in length and approx 10mm diameter.

YOU COULD ONLY TELL THE HOSE WAS SPLIT WHEN IT WAS OFF AND IN YOUR HAND AND YOU BENT IT,IT LOOKED PERFECTLY NORMAL OTHERWISE !!!!

The car is running as sweet as a nut now and its thanks to the garage i put it in called Vee-dubs located in Bill quay ,tyne & wear in the north east and only cost me

I also found that split hose yesterday. It's the one that goes from the manifold to the PCV one-way valve. Replaced the hose and replaced the valve also (although it wasn't defective). Unfortunately, there's no change in the jumpy idle. Running out of ideas...

I also found that split hose yesterday. It's the one that goes from the manifold to the PCV one-way valve. Replaced the hose and replaced the valve also (although it wasn't defective). Unfortunately, there's no change in the jumpy idle. Running out of ideas...

Don't suppose you could do me a massive favour and let me know the 2 diameters on that valve you replaced? The big end that fits in the rubber T-piece, and the thin end that goes into the hose you changed. At a guess I'd say 10mm and 19mm, but I need to be sure. I would be very grateful for this if you could

Regarding your jumpy idle... Have you tried changing the air temperature sensor in the inlet manifold? Also, it could be a leak in the brake servo and vacuum booster lines. Possibly a split vacuum booster. And then there is the classic grubby throttle body that could be to blame.

Don't suppose you could do me a massive favour and let me know the 2 diameters on that valve you replaced? The big end that fits in the rubber T-piece, and the thin end that goes into the hose you changed. At a guess I'd say 10mm and 19mm, but I need to be sure. I would be very grateful for this if you could

Regarding your jumpy idle... Have you tried changing the air temperature sensor in the inlet manifold? Also, it could be a leak in the brake servo and vacuum booster lines. Possibly a split vacuum booster. And then there is the classic grubby throttle body that could be to blame.

I do have the old valve so I will measure the diameters tomorrow. I'll also post the code off it, maybe it helps. Also as a tip: i didn't find the original hose on stock anywhere so my mechanic recommender changing it with fuel hose, which will no longer split, so we just cut the old one right after the valve and adapted the fuel hose (which is reinforced) up to the manifold, works like a charm.

Where exactly is this air temperature sensor located?

Regarding the booster lines, wouldn't a split in them affect the idle only when braking? 'Cause mine is doing it just standing still.

The throttle body was given another clean on this occasion, now it literally shines. The difference is obvious, although it was cleaned this spring and there was just a very thin film of oil and dirt on it, the dirtier it gets the more i notice a flat spot around 2000rpm, where it just hesitates for half a second, then goes. Now with it clean the flat spot is completely gone.

Where exactly is this air temperature sensor located?

Regarding the booster lines, wouldn't a split in them affect the idle only when braking? 'Cause mine is doing it just standing still.

It's located near the inlet of the inlet manifold, just by the throttle body. One bolt holds it inside the inlet manifold. If they get covered it oil, they can give an innacurate inlet air temperature reading to the ECU.

If there is a leak in the main servo hose, or the servo vacuum booster lines, then it could effect the running in all conditions. As you will basically have a leaking inlet manifold. So drawing too much air in on idle, and leaking air on boost. The vacuum booster and hoses are under the inlet manifold, so you can have a good feel of it all and just about see it to check it. The main servo line is in plain sight so easy to inspect.

Valve is 10 and 19mm, code 035 103 245 G

Bodge: a pic of the hoses you're talking about would help a lot, as the weekend's coming up so there might be time to check

Valve is 10 and 19mm, code 035 103 245 G

Bodge: a pic of the hoses you're talking about would help a lot, as the weekend's coming up so there might be time to check

Thanks for that buddy .

Here is a picture I just made (badly!) of the vacuum system for the brakes. Alot of the stuff is hidden under the inlet manifold, but you can feel for leaks once you have the lower engine cover off. The rest is easy to check. Check for splits/cracks in the hoses and vacuum booster. Note that this setup is specific to the AUQ engine fitted in the RS, most other VAG 1.8T systems attach to the engine breather system too.

Valve is 10 and 19mm, code 035 103 245 G

Was the valve green on the end then? Skoda are supplying me with the 'A' type one (white end), based on my VIN number. Hope it's right! Guess it depends what year your car is.

Thanks for the measurements though, that's going to fit perfectly into my planned revised breather system.

Just realised I'm spending

Yea, the original one was green, but I also got white/gray A one. Fitted perfectly.

Oh, just noticed the pic...sweetness

:S I think mine has the same problem when the engine is cold. When you accelerate it doesn't run smoothly, it goes up in stages! Found this thread very helpfull, thanks all

Edited 10 April, 201016 yr by vrs 54

:S I think mine has the same problem when the engine is cold. When you accelerate it doesn't run smoothly, it goes up in stages! Found this thread very helpfull, thanks all

Just let it idle a bit longer then

Sorted !!!!

Just let it idle a bit longer then

Sorted !!!!

Cheers

Being new to the forum and being useless on a computer........... how do you put pics on here?

Thanks for any help !

You need an acount with a photo hosting website like Photobucket. Put your pictures on there and then copy the links to them on Photobucket and when you do a new post, click the little picture button (near the fonts buttons above the post), paste the link in to the box and the picture will be added to the post.

My idle was terrible (like a tractor) for the first minute or so, with very low power (floor it in second and it would hold 15mph). Fixed it the other day by doing the secondary air pump mod. Only two of the six rivets were still intact!

You need an acount with a photo hosting website like Photobucket. Put your pictures on there and then copy the links to them on Photobucket and when you do a new post, click the little picture button (near the fonts buttons above the post), paste the link in to the box and the picture will be added to the post.

Cheers for that, will get my hubby to look into it

Hi, just posting this as I've had the same problems on my octy 01 vRS and thought it may help a future viewer of this thread. Started off idling slightly rough and spluttering (like misfiring) until warm then developed into doing it constantly at low revs (eml on also). After a quick read on various posts I thought I'd start with the maf sensor and as luck has it, when unplugged it runs sweet so I'm guessing it's f**ked or playing up.... I will update when I get it plugged in for fault codes etc