Splutter is doing my head in!

[gathy]

:thumbdwn: should change the name of the forum to kangaroo club

mine splutterers all the time seems to feel like the fuels been cut off or t-body is faulty.seems to be worse if i drive at low revs with a steady foot hot or cold (worse when cold)

cleaned maf and checked pipes no faults on vag com. cleaned the t.body whilst on car the best i could as it was saturday afternoon couldnt get a new gasket,

ive only got unreg vag-com so i dont know if i can reset the t-body ?i was told if i disconnect the battery and reconnect it and leave the ignition on for 3 minutes it sets itself is this true ?

either way this is the worst car ive owned :thumbdwn:

[Seedy Jay]

After having pretty much everything that's been suggested done to my car, I'm still having an intermittent cold splutter problem (about 20% of the time). From startup, the revs float about all over the place, sounds almost like it's not firing on all 4 cyls. Sometimes I have to switch off and restart to settle it down a bit. Goes without saying that it's undriveable during this period, even after the secondary air pump's cut out. The local dealer reckons the next step is a new throttle body (

[Yaminchi]

went to Jos website, the guy that posted the pics and mailed him that they no longer worked. to see if he can sort it, if not if anyone has a copy of the pics let me know and I will host them somewhere for everyone :-)

[Beretta]

Try gapping the plugs down to 6 or 6.5 Worked for me.

[jos]

I'll sort the pics out now

Sorry for the delay

[jos]

ta daa pics reuploaded

[Yaminchi]

Thanks Jos for sorting that out!

[martziniuk]

:thumbdwn: should change the name of the forum to kangaroo club

mine splutterers all the time seems to feel like the fuels been cut off or t-body is faulty.seems to be worse if i drive at low revs with a steady foot hot or cold (worse when cold)

cleaned maf and checked pipes no faults on vag com. cleaned the t.body whilst on car the best i could as it was saturday afternoon couldnt get a new gasket,

ive only got unreg vag-com so i dont know if i can reset the t-body ?i was told if i disconnect the battery and reconnect it and leave the ignition on for 3 minutes it sets itself is this true ?

either way this is the worst car ive owned :thumbdwn:

Registered Vag-com is required to recalibrate throttle body what you have been told is an old wives tale.

[Wayne Kerr]

ta daa pics reuploaded

Where ????????? :confused:

[miterick]

had same sort of problem myself, got rid of it with carb cleaner in 'butterfly valve?' I think its the automatic choke? inside the pipeon the front left hand side of engine, not sure exact name, I just tried everything I was told, also 3 lots of injector cleaner (2 redex and 1 greased lightning) and dont seem to have the problem anymore, not sure about which one did it or if they did anything. But that greased lightening is potent stuff!

[jpd]

Well people after starting this thread I thoght I should say that after changing the senser on the side of the throttle body my car is still running fine. Even after changing the cat to a 200cell and jetex back system and bigger turbo intake pipe every thing is hunky doory. I get the odd hesitation but I've put the down to the car needing a remap but that can wait until the bigger intercooler is fitted. Oh and the suspension sorted pointless having a faster car that can't use it!

I'm not sure of the part number of the valve all I know is its the one off the 1.8t beetle but it works so there we go.

[Bodge]

Just to confirm 'JOS' is 100% correct this is the fault!

A realy good clean = progressive non lumpy power wich makes the car more responsive, it also make the clutch and accelerator relationship much smoother for a far more pleasurable pull away.

I have had to clean this twice on my car now, I do have photos (can I upload these?) -

Next question: Why does this happen, where does the oil come from?

Thanks all!

That hose on my car is covered in oil aswell.

I can only think that the crankcase ventilation pressure control valve (mounted on the intake air hose with a feed coming from the cylinder head cover and oil filter bracket) is allowing too much oily air into the compressor. You could remove this valve and blank the hole, then fit a small filter to the end of the breather hose. That would remove the possibility of too much oil getting into the compressor, and not affect the car in any other way. This would also stop oily air clogging the TB, if it works!

It's either this, or the turbo is leaking oil.

The oil found on this hose is definately engine oil though.

Can't think of anywhere else it could come from.

[bjorn]

In the pics Jos posted up, which turbo pipe is this? Does anyone have a part number?

Cheers

[Bodge]

In the pics Jos posted up, which turbo pipe is this? Does anyone have a part number?

Cheers

It looks like it's the pipe from the outlet of the top air guide pipe (that runs across the back of the engine) through the wing to the inlet of the bottom air guide pipe (the short squashed one in the wing).

The revised part number for this hose is: 06A 145 790C (replaces 06A 145 790A).

Price quoted to me by Skoda yesterday was

[VINNYMAN72]

Hello m8, they all do it,im not very techy but someone told me that there is a secondary fan that comes on when you start the car up, this apparently gets rid of all old gases in the system hence that sound you get when you start the engine up like its blowin, my car esp when cold is very bad almost like the plugs have gone, then after abt 90 secs the sound dissapears and my car then runs fine, im wonderin whether the battery is strained on start up with secondary fans etc and cant send the necessary amount of power to the plugs ???? Im either a genius or as i suspect a total numpty who should leave the thinkin to the techies!!! L8rs Vin.

[Bodge]

if the job of the secondary air system is to just heat up the cat quickly for emissions on cold start...

i wonder what the result of removing the secondary air system would be? apart from more emissions on start up. it's not exactly a complex system.

i know it would have ramifications on the market value of the car, and the engine would have to be hot to pass an mot emissions test bla bla bla....

but what if?....

[RichB86]

if the job of the secondary air system is to just heat up the cat quickly for emissions on cold start...

i wonder what the result of removing the secondary air system would be? apart from more emissions on start up. it's not exactly a complex system.

i know it would have ramifications on the market value of the car, and the engine would have to be hot to pass an mot emissions test bla bla bla....

but what if?....

mines given up the ghost thus causing my EML to be on all the time, pricey piece of kit to replace aswell!

[Bodge]

mines given up the ghost thus causing my EML to be on all the time, pricey piece of kit to replace aswell!

Does the car run fine without it then?

Is the only error code one that tells you the pump is not functioning?

You might be able to get someone to program the ECU to not look for the pump, and stop the light coming on. Maybe.

Does anyone know if it is possible to tell the ECU to stop looking for systems? For example; aircon, secondary airpump.....

[RichB86]

no probs at all just the eml light is one and brings up one code. when speaking to APS they didnt seem to think thered be a way aorund it that would be cost beneficial.

[jimmyskeen]

Well people after starting this thread I thoght I should say that after changing the senser on the side of the throttle body my car is still running fine. Even after changing the cat to a 200cell and jetex back system and bigger turbo intake pipe every thing is hunky doory. I get the odd hesitation but I've put the down to the car needing a remap but that can wait until the bigger intercooler is fitted. Oh and the suspension sorted pointless having a faster car that can't use it!

I'm not sure of the part number of the valve all I know is its the one off the 1.8t beetle but it works so there we go.

I have had all the same probs that ive been trying to solve for about 2 years ( not even the dealers could find it ) after the quoted thread above I too have changed the air temperature sensor that sits next to the thottle housing in the inlet manifold . all my problems have cleared not had a glitch since changing it & it only cost around

[1977leeb]

Hi all !!!!!

just read through all 70 posts and got loads of helpfull info,i have this splutter prob on my 54 plate octavia vrs too at 3000rpm then it goes like a rocket after it gets past it.My local skoda dealer finaly told me today after having my car 3 times that its the throtle body and needs replacing at a cost of

[chicken_eyebrow]

Definately try cleaning it first before buying a replacement one!

Cleaning it costs less than a tenner... see below

http://briskoda.net/technical-guides/cleaning-throttle-body-1-8t-engine/145866/

[1977leeb]

Hello mate !!!!

Brilliant pics and step by step guide , however after cleaning it the car is still spluttering at 3000rpm ????? thinking of trying a new MAP SENSOR ( thrust sensor ). Part No 038 906 051B , approx

[chicken_eyebrow]

Best bet is to get a fault code scan done with VAG-Com or a code scanner and see what codes it's throwing up before replacing part after part trying to cure the problem.

If the garage are right and the throttle body is duff then no amount of cleaning is going to help it :( but a code scan would confirm if it is the throttle body. And you can probably pick up one for a lot cheaper than what the dealer quoted.

[karlbar2k]

common problem - get a remap

VAGCOM is a bit of software from the nice people at RossTech, they have a licenced cable which will run the latest software and is awesome at around