Skip to content

Loss Of Power - 2016 Skoda Rapid Spaceback 1.6 TDI 115

Featured Replies

Hi everyone, looking for some advice.

I've got a 2016 Skoda Rapid Spaceback 1.6 TDI 115hp (CXMA), 5-speed manual, with around 125k miles.

I've been experiencing progressive power loss. 1st and 2nd gear feel reasonably good, but as soon as I get into 3rd, 4th and 5th, the power just drops off. It struggles to accelerate, especially uphill. I also get juddering when accelerating in 3rd at around 1,500 RPM. Power loss and juddering gets worse the longer I drive. I've been to a few mechanics, but keep getting different suggestions: charge cooler, DPF, EGR, injectors and turbo actuator. Some are even pointing to clutch and flywheel. I've changed the fuel filter and used EGR cleaner, which improved things noticeably, but the problem hasn't completely gone. No warning lights, and the engine doesn't noticeably run rough.

Has anyone experienced anything similar with the 1.6 TDI? Just trying to narrow it down rather than keep replacing parts without knowing the actual cause. Or maybe scrap it at the end for an Octavia.

Another thing to mention, no issue with clutch slippage its like there is resistance holding the car back and thus more heavy on the fuel consumption. Mechanical have suggested just to keep driving untill it breaks down.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Worth logging it before you buy anything else. On the 85kW 1.6 TDI the torque is meant to be there from 1500 rpm (Skoda quote 250 Nm from 1500 to 3000), so a car that feels fine in 1st and 2nd but runs out of puff in 3rd to 5th is usually one that can't hold full boost under real load. In the low gears the revs climb so quickly the engine is never loaded long enough to show it.

With VCDS or similar, do a logged pull in 3rd from about 1500 to 3500 rpm at full throttle and record:

1. Boost specified vs actual (on newer VCDS versions these are in Advanced Measuring Values rather than the old group 011). If actual lags well behind specified, a couple of hundred mbar or more, you're looking at a boost leak or sticky turbo vanes. Check every intercooler hose and joint for oil and splits, especially the lower ones, as a small split often only opens up under boost.

2. Air mass specified vs actual. A lazy MAF can do exactly this with no warning light.

3. DPF soot load and differential pressure. At 125k a part blocked DPF will hold the car back more the longer you drive, and that "something holding it back" feeling with higher fuel use fits.

The EGR cleaner helping is a clue in itself, as it points at the air side rather than injectors or the clutch. The judder at 1500 in 3rd under load can also be the dual mass flywheel, so if the logs come back clean it's worth getting that looked at.

If you post the log up on here people can tell you a lot from it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.