A local garage fitted my new DS2500s and discs today along with some Motul 600 fluid (their supply). However, when I got home, the pedal was very soft. They say they bled the system properly but only used 500ml of fluid!

Now I've read that the system holds 1.75L and they swear they drained the system so what is going on? Is there any advice you can give. Is there a knack in draining the Tavia system?

It's going back to them tomorrow morning so any help out there?

Steve

My expierience of brake pad replacements is usually that they are soft until bedded in, and unless you are ready for it "ohhhhhhhhhhh shhiiiiiiiiiittt" moment will happen until they have hardened and bedded. Having said that, I may be wrong as you have done a "mod" on the braking instead.

If they let the fluid level get to low when they bled the system out you will have air in the ABS valve block and you cant bleed it out correctly without the correct diagnostic kit or VAG COM.

Does the pedal pump up solid and then go soft?

No, just soft all the time. Are you saying I need to go to a dealer to get the fluid replaced?

Steve

Steve give it a few miles to allow the discs and pads to bed in, trying to use the brakes gently and progressively. If the pedal stays soft it sounds like you need a more comprehensive fluid replacement and bleeding process carried out. Like Ross said, the fluid level during bleeding should never be allowed to drop low enough to allow air to enter the master cylinder and therefore be pumped into the rest of the system. I'd be surprised if even the smallest garage wasn't using a pressure bleeder to bleed the system anyway, and then the only way air could get in would be if they forgot to top up the bleeder reservoir.

It's definetly not just the bedding in process, the pedal has a much longer travel.

Steve

No' date=' just soft all the time. Are you saying I need to go to a dealer to get the fluid replaced?

Steve[/quote']

No not at all. You can change your fluid at home with a jam jar and a bit of tube and it will be fine, just as long as the reservior is kept topped up. It doesnt take alot to empty the Octy reservoir though thats why i use a pressure bleeder as mentioned that keeps it full all the time.

Hope things get sorted for you.

Could you post a method and I'll do it myself?

Thanks

Steve

Not if there is air in the ABS unit no as you would need the VAG equipemnt to open the valves/solenoids in the ABS pump to clear the lines.

If you just want to have a go at bleeding them get down to Halfords and buy a 'Gunsons' easy bleed kit. Its a pressure bleeder that uses a car tyre to bleed the fluid out so you can do it on your own, comes with instructions.

Not if there is air in the ABS unit no as you would need the VAG equipemnt to open the valves/solenoids in the ABS pump to clear the lines.

So I do need fancy stuff!

I used a tango bottle and some rubber hose on my Scoob!

Steve

300 posts :D:D

Steve

Like I said only IF the fluid level had dropped enough for air to enter the ABS unit. Which it sounds like it has.

Normally if you are just replacing the fluid then as long as you keep the level topped up you are fine.

But my advice would be get it checked over by a garage. Brakes are far to important to risk.

OK, I'll pop to the local Seat dealer (Skoda garage is too far away) and see if they can help.

Thanks

Steve

If you just want to have a go at bleeding them get down to Halfords and buy a 'Gunsons' easy bleed kit. Its a pressure bleeder that uses a car tyre to bleed the fluid out so you can do it on your own, comes with instructions.

And a fine piece of kit it is too - I swear by mine. Steve if you're anywhere at all handy and you want to borrow it, you're welcome.

i don't think you would have got air in the abs block (never have myself) after about a zillion changes and bleeds try bleeding your self stating from the thurthest point ie the o/s/r.

The system has been rebled and the pedal is hard when the pads are against the disc. However, I think there is too much travel in the pedal. The garage says that the pistons are moving as soon as the pedal is touched but the calipers are flexing on their sliders. they also say that the pistons are sliding right back in rather than staying just shy of the disc, hence the long travel.

Can anyone comment on this?

Steve

so the pistons are slidding right back to the max retracted position?

I think so.

Steve

i had this a couple of months ago after changing both front and rear discs and pads told customer to drive 500 miles got him back and re-bled and hey-presto brakes were ok again maybee you should try this?

How much fluid should a full fluid change take. I've heard it should be 1.75L but I'm sure only 1L (now after the second bleed) has been used at the most!

Steve

can't remember exact figures but i'm pretty sure it's about 1ltr

i had this a couple of months ago after changing both front and rear discs and pads told customer to drive 500 miles got him back and re-bled and hey-presto brakes were ok again maybee you should try this?

So is it a "They all so this sir!"

What causes it?

Thanks for your help K

Steve

So is it a "They all so this sir!"

What causes it?

Thanks for your help K

Steve

i think it's a case of when you squeeze pistons back in calipers the system gets air in it and it's one hell of a b**tard to get rid of the moral of the story is if you crack open the bleed nipples when you pull pistons back the chances of getting air in the system are minimal.

i think it's a case of when you squeeze pistons back in calipers the system gets air in it and it's one hell of a b**tard to get rid of the moral of the story is if you crack open the bleed nipples when you pull pistons back the chances of getting air in the system are minimal.

How does the air get in?

Steve

dunno but it does belive me