Despite recently fitting a new battery it's gone flat again (obviously something is draining it but I'll worry about that later). The battery is totally dead and my car is delocked (due to the known security weakness) other than the boot. I need to get the car unlocked and the bonnet open so I can charge the battery. The first thing I tried was the boot but the lock has siezed and despite applying copious amounts of penetrating oil it's not budging. :(

So any other suggestions which won't cause damage?

I'm thinking of trying to get the delocking cap off and exploiting the security flaw but I'm not holding much hope on that one.

if you can jack the car up... try and find a pos an neg lead you could attach a charger to as close to batt as poss. Know what u mean about the flaw we have delocked the octy and my golf... just make sure batt is always charged.

if you can jack the car up... try and find a pos an neg lead you could attach a charger to as close to batt as poss.

It's in my garage so space is very tight, could this work on an indicator or am I just likely to fry something?

I suppose it's just a matter of finding a +ve connection as I can just attach -ve to the chassis.

err what flaw i cant rem seeing anything on here about it before, obviously if someone wants to let me in on it in a pm that would be cool

It's in my garage so space is very tight, could this work on an indicator or am I just likely to fry something?

I suppose it's just a matter of finding a +ve connection as I can just attach -ve to the chassis.

Can't remember the position of the starter/solenoid. Can you get a lead on to that ?(make sure you get the correct side!!) You'll need something that was permanenly live i guess, but anything that fits that criteria will do.

Also, I guess as long as you can apply the power for long enough to unlock the car, that's all you need to do.

perhaps you could add a low current fly lead that you can access externally should this happen again? (inner wheel arch etc)door after horse bolted>

Good luck

Can't remember the position of the starter/solenoid. Can you get a lead on to that ?(make sure you get the correct side!!) You'll need something that was permanenly live i guess, but anything that fits that criteria will do.

Also, I guess as long as you can apply the power for long enough to unlock the car, that's all you need to do.

perhaps you could add a low current fly lead that you can access externally should this happen again? (inner wheel arch etc)door after horse bolted>

Good luck

When I was having battery problems before I always left the bonnet on the catch when in the garage but haven't been bothering since the battery was changed. A fly lead to the front grille is also something I've been thinking I'll add for the future.

How long had the car been standing for the battery to fail?

I can't even think think where I would find a +ve connection with the car locked (apart from a caravan hook up point).

Does deadlocking mean you can't open the car from the inside? If so could you no unlock the drivers door with the key?

I hate to ask, but are you sure your keyfob has not gone flat instead?

How long had the car been standing for the battery to fail?

3 days.

I can't even think think where I would find a +ve connection with the car locked (apart from a caravan hook up point).

Does deadlocking mean you can't open the car from the inside? If so could you no unlock the drivers door with the key?

Yes deadlocking means exactly that but all I really need to do is release the bonnet. There's no lock on the drivers door for me to use a key (see my first post).

I hate to ask, but are you sure your keyfob has not gone flat instead?

Yes I'm sure.

There's no lock on the drivers door for me to use a key (see my first post).

I assume that is what the delocking cap is then... sorry never heard of that term before!

I think if you can get the undertray off you could then reach the starter from underneath...

If you need any pics I can get you some tonight from above?

I think if you can get the undertray off you could then reach the starter from underneath...

If you need any pics I can get you some tonight from above?

Pics would be useful if you don't mind as access and lighting will be poor when I try.

Right I had forgotten that I have replaced the stock cable, so looks a bit different, have taken pics of the cable on its own for your reference. There is a plastic cover you will have to lever off to get a feed to it.

Cable:

From above.

In this pic I put a light underneath the car and you can see that there is access to it

If you can wait until tomorrow, I could try and get my car on the ramp to get some pictures from underneath?

In fact here is one from underneath I took for another thread on here, I have circled in red where it will be. More pics tomorrow close up if you need

I can't try until tomorrow night anyway so any more pics gratefully recieved.

Any pointers on the screw positions for the plastic undertray would be also be appreciated if anyone can help with that and also if there is a partcular method to remove the plastic cover over the +ve connection on the starter.

For the plastic undertray the easiest thing will be to just feel around the edge I suspect. I did post a picture of a diesel under tray the other day.... I can mark the holes on that and report if that would help, but I have a feeling the petrol tray is smaller.

Eddy, someone locked themselves out of the car at Trax (i think) 2 years ago. They posted on here about it and they know how the AA man got into the car.

Cant you just use the key? On a Vauxhall you can deadlock with the fob and open with the key (the alarm goes off and the imobiliser is active though)

Eddy, someone locked themselves out of the car at Trax (i think) 2 years ago. They posted on here about it and they know how the AA man got into the car.

Cant you just use the key? On a Vauxhall you can deadlock with the fob and open with the key (the alarm goes off and the imobiliser is active though)

If the battery was ok and I was just locked out it wouldn't be as much of an issue, as the AA/RAC method of using wedges and a long pointing device should be adequate. It's the dead battery that's making things tricky.

The front doors are delocked, the only lock barrel on the car is on the boot and it's seized.

On a Ford Focus (mk1), you can remove the high-line brake light and inject 12v into the one of the wires in the loom there.... nice one mr ford!

is it possible to put the rear wheels on dolly's are carefully drag the car out of the garage to make things easier?

is it possible to put the rear wheels on dolly's are carefully drag the car out of the garage to make things easier?

I don't have any dollies and the drive is quite steep. :(

Everything seems to be against me on this.

On a Ford Focus (mk1), you can remove the high-line brake light and inject 12v into the one of the wires in the loom there.... nice one mr ford!

Thanks for the tip.

Eddy can you get a wire coat hanger in through the grill so you can give the bonnet release wire a pull?

On most the octys i have seen the wire runs down the drivers side wing then to the central catch. Wherever this connects to you will be able to pull to pop the bonnet.

Used to be the trick on old citroens where the wire failed.

One you have the bonnet open you shouldn't have too many problems.

Eddy can you get a wire coat hanger in through the grill so you can give the bonnet release wire a pull?

On most the octys i have seen the wire runs down the drivers side wing then to the central catch. Wherever this connects to you will be able to pull to pop the bonnet.

Used to be the trick on old citroens where the wire failed.

One you have the bonnet open you shouldn't have too many problems.

I suppose it could work, does anyone have any pics that could help?

I dont think that'll work at all - you'll be working totally blind and could end up pulling something else (wiring loom etc)

It will work if you can catch the clip, but you will need a picture of the bonnet release catch so you can see where you need to clip and pull.

That assumes of course that the octy doesn't deadlock the bonnet, which i don't think it does.

EDIT:

Goochie. I'm talking about going in through the front grill directly by the bonnet catch. IIRC i don't think there is anything to catch there and it is certainly a trick used by many an old citroen garage (release cables used to snap due to routing) and a few recovery companies around my neck of the woods.

You should get a pretty clear view witha torch of where the cable enters the catch and which bit you need to pull on.