the first thing to do is to jack up the front of the car nice and high and support it on axle stands, place the axles stands in such a place so as it does not interfere with the subframe

next undo the nut from the anti-roll bar drop link arrowed in picture below, you may need to counterhole the central pin with a t30 torx socket to undo this

now working underneath the car, remove the 4 bolt securing the plate at the rear of the subframe, there are two bolts on each side of the car

next remove the 2 bolts from the rear engine/transimission pendulum support

next undo the 2 bolts secureing the anti-roll bar retaining braket from the subframe, then go to the other side of the car and do the same

now, working from underneath the car, undo the 4 steering rack retaining bolts

next place your trolley jack under the subframe and support to support the weight, this assembly is heavy so be carefull!! subframe retaining bolts arrowed, another two bolts on oposite sides..

now remove the bolts securing the subrame to the underside of the car, there are 4 in total, 2 each side, 1 arrowed here

and another arrowed here.... you will need an extension on your socket to reach this one through the access hole in the track control arm

now carefully lower the whole subframe/track control arm assembly down from the bottom of the car, it only needs to come down about 4 inches in total

it shouldnow be possible to remove the anti-roll bar from the car, it's a bit fiddly but it will come out if you try hard enough, take care not to catch the ends of the anti-roll bar on the track rod gators as these will tear easily.....

now compare your anti-roll bar with your new one, just to check they are the same shape, also inspect the new item for any signs of damage before fitting

just to illustrate a commonly replaced item, take a look at the way the bush has worn a groove into the old roll bar

once you are happy it is the right part, fit the bushes to the bar using the supplied grease, then refit the clamps...... note: the retaining clamps are handed.... make sure that they end up back on the same side of the car you took them off!!!! i did this wrong to start with, it's easy to do because they look the same.... also note that the bolts securing the bar can be tightened before raising the subframe back into position.

now, assembly is just a reverse of the strip down procedure, i decided to fit new drop-links to mine, they cost me

Good guide.

looks fecking impossible. I'd be terrified attempting that.

The Rear Arb was one thing...! but thats something else...

Well laid out

Well done, of course you need the four wheel alignment doing and its easier undoing the arb bracket bolts when the subframe is down rather than fiddling with them when the subframe is still bolted up.

yes, :iagree: but i was thinking more about the people who may read this guide who just wanted to change thier bushes.... i'm going to edit the post sightly in the morning.... i'm not doing my 4 wheel alignment till after i've done my bushes and fitted my fsd's tomorrow

the only other thing i omitted to mention is that on models like the 1.4 and 1.2 where the exhaust system passer under the subframe rather than over the top like the diesels and the 2.0, it will be necessary to remove the exhaust and/or cat first

Good point about the exhaust, it does make it a bit of a pain, so is the 1.4 auto.

nice guide Mate - very useful to have in time of need.

Was the new ARB uprated? What are the signs of a worn-out old one?

Thanks for the info

Bas

yeah the new one is the eibach 22mm one, the signs of a worn out one was random knocking noises, and also strange squeeks from the bushes when they got wet

ho sells the http://www.briskoda.net/forums/technical-guides/fabia-vrs-how-change-rear-discs-pads/62695/? Is 22mm the biggest? Thanks - SteveP

Fantastic guide, put it in your CV and send it to Haynes

Look out for the update,

"How to fit consoles with Ibiza wishbone bushes fitted"

Look out for the update,

"How to fit consoles with Ibiza wishbone bushes fitted"

Does that include the section on not being able to get the old ones out and shattering the console

Yeah, also a sub section on making sure the tool you have is the right thread

Yeah, also a sub section on making sure the tool you have is the right thread

:eek: :rofl:

I think I've heard of that part :P

Did you notice the difference Tom?

Does that include the section on not being able to get the old ones out and shattering the console

Yeah, also a sub section on making sure the tool you have is the right thread

yes i know..... i'm an idiot:D

Did you notice the difference Tom?

no not a great deal, in fact unless your arb is hanging on by it's finger nails like mine was, then dont bother, save you money and spend it on something else....

Fantastic guide, put it in your CV and send it to Haynes

"Refitting is the reverse of removal"

How do you determine when it's 'gone' and if it has, would you buy the standard one instead of the Eibach one?

Also - why haven't I broken mine yet

How do you determine when it's 'gone' and if it has, would you buy the standard one instead of the Eibach one?

Also - why haven't I broken mine yet

I was advised that my ARB was on its way out when i was having my suspension sorted.. something to do with a sleeve being split that will eventually be letting the arb move side to side and knock

They are pretty robust on the vRS, the non-vrs ones are prone to failure tho.

Hmm I wonder when mine will drop off then - 61k on the clocks, most of it with some fettled power on tap, and it's gone up a fair amount recently again.

Also different engine going in may have an impact? (by knocking stuff about)

Hmm I wonder when mine will drop off then - 61k on the clocks, most of it with some fettled power on tap, and it's gone up a fair amount recently again.

Also different engine going in may have an impact? (by knocking stuff about)

It might be worth getting it changed while the engines out... as you can see it aint a easy job.

Darn - I may have to give the guys a call (thing is I don't want to add too much to their work as they are not charging me for the labour, will ask it they are ok with it)

Anyone know where to get a hold of the eibach anti roll bar and how much it costs ?

I am guessing it comes with the bushes, are these the polyutherene ones ?

Thanks