Coming up for the first service time and looking to get a little Jabba customization going on under the bonnet.

I've got the intake aspiration sorted and leaving the blower for now.

Spoken to Nick at Jabba and basically asked that:

1. the car gets pushed within it's original parts tolerances ie not prematurely wearing the turbo or clutch

2. I'd like better MPG

3. more grunt please!

For those that have taken this custom route what did you specify and would you choose your setup again?

Are there any other considerations that I should be taking into account in the custom remap?

Previously the biggest technical mod I've ever done to a car is a visit to Courtney and slapping a full Scorpion system on so please be gentle!

I'd agree with what you've said but I'd also like the EGR turned right down, or better, still off completely. Its only there to get cars through ****ty emissons tests and robs the engine of performance.

I'd agree with what you've said but I'd also like the EGR turned right down, or better, still off completely. Its only there to get cars through ****ty emissons tests and robs the engine of performance.

Ok, will I be smoking a lot with this function off?

Not really a lot worse. Also, the crud goes out of the exhaust instead of back through the engine/intercooler etc.

I've never liked the idea of an engine being force fed it's own effluent. It cant be good for it. It makes it run hotter to burn off more of the nasties in the exhaust but like I said it harms performance which is the last thing I want.

Not really a lot worse. Also, the crud goes out of the exhaust instead of back through the engine/intercooler etc.

Well that can't be a bad thing for the car then, that'll be another box ticked on the wish list then.

What can be done with boost btw? I'm not planning a FMIC or turbo upgrades so is this something that should be fiddled with? Or is this the whole point of the remap?

Generally with remaps the boost and fuelling gets altered (generally increased) to get more performance.

Depending on how reliable you want to keep the car, the boost levels can be pushed up a bit higher or lower.

It is worth having a chat with your tuner about this though, they can give you the options on the day. TBH if you want good reliability and some improved performance/driveability, I'd go for a mild remap, whereas if you mostly care about all-out performance and aren't too worried about replacing some stuff a lot sooner, you can go for a tweaked 'up' map

Well that can't be a bad thing for the car then, that'll be another box ticked on the wish list then.

What can be done with boost btw? I'm not planning a FMIC or turbo upgrades so is this something that should be fiddled with? Or is this the whole point of the remap?

If I were you, I'd search a little more into the EGR valve before you start turning things off.

All the info I've found says that the EGR valve either increases or decreases the amount of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) into the engine to control emissons. It is the increase in size of this valve (well actually the gromit that lets exhaust gas into the valve) that has led to the hesitation or stutter "phenomenon" on Euro 4 compliant cars and indeed skoda's own fix for this is to reduce the size of the EGR gromit thus reducing the amount of exhaust gas back into the engine. On my previous car, a Honda Prelude 2.2 vtec I blanked off the EGR and all that happened was the engine ran a lot better.

If I were you, I'd search a little more into the EGR valve before you start turning things off.

After looking around (briefly) I can see that a lot of the stutter threads mentions this valve - could I introduce this problem to my car by turning it off?

I had my Fabia quite nicely modified. Never had a problem with it.

Shutting the EGR valve on your car will probably cure the problem of stutter on Euro 4 compliant engines. As I said skoda's own fix is to reduce the amount of exhaust gas recirculation whilst still trying to keep it Euro 4 emissions compliant. The Euro 3 compliant engine uses an even smaller EGR grommit than the skoda fix for euro 4. This is why the phenomonen doesn't manifest itself on the earlier engine.

Shutting the EGR valve on your car will probably cure the problem of stutter on Euro 4 compliant engines. As I said skoda's own fix is to reduce the amount of exhaust gas recirculation whilst still trying to keep it Euro 4 emissions compliant. The Euro 3 compliant engine uses an even smaller EGR grommit than the skoda fix for euro 4. This is why the phenomonen doesn't manifest itself on the earlier engine.

My car was an 06, with the later Euro4 engine. No problems

it sounds like you are one of the lucky ones then Snoopie! I know it doesn't affect all of the new cars but it affects enough for it to be a problem. I know its not something I want my car to be doing considering its only function is to meet the tougher Euro 4 emissions legislation.

I've never liked the idea of an engine being force fed it's own effluent. It cant be good for it. It makes it run hotter to burn off more of the nasties in the exhaust but like I said it harms performance which is the last thing I want.

You realise that EGR does exactly the opposite?

EGR is considered a `metered intake leak' and was developed to reduce the combustion temperatures to below 2,500 degrees, the threshold where NOx is created. Not unlike putting a brick in your lavatory to lower the volume of water used, the EGR valve meters a readily available inert gas (actually exhaust gas which contains a lot of very inert Carbon Dioxide) into the combustion chamber to effectively reduce the volume. Smaller effective displacement means less fire, and less heat and thus lower temperatures, thereby controlling NOx emissions.

It should also only be in effect when the engine is idling or under partial load with the PD. You will find turning it off makes negligable difference to the performance of your Fabia other than the fact it may or may not help the stutter as well as the aforementioned cleaner pipes.

Coming up for the first service time and looking to get a little Jabba customization going on under the bonnet.

I've got the intake aspiration sorted and leaving the blower for now.

Spoken to Nick at Jabba and basically asked that:

1. the car gets pushed within it's original parts tolerances ie not prematurely wearing the turbo or clutch

2. I'd like better MPG

3. more grunt please!

For those that have taken this custom route what did you specify and would you choose your setup again?

Are there any other considerations that I should be taking into account in the custom remap?

Previously the biggest technical mod I've ever done to a car is a visit to Courtney and slapping a full Scorpion system on so please be gentle!

You want a smooth power delivery. A lot of generic maps will have a heavy lump of torque kick in around 1800-2000 rpm. This although quite a spectacular feeling will over time effect the clutch, flywheel and turbo. Useable power will fade around 3500-4000 rpm

I prefer the map done so the power comes in more gradually and lasts a bit longer (This is a personal preference

Take a look at these;

Generic

Custom

At the end of the day it all comes down to what you want out of it and as long as you have the breeze to get it done it's all good.

Smooth delivery gets my vote too, easier to drive, less wearing on the drive train, and fuel economy is usually good too

I prefer the map done so the power comes in more gradually and lasts a bit longer (This is a personal preference

Smooth delivery gets my vote too, easier to drive, less wearing on the drive train, and fuel economy is usually good too

So rather than the beserker rage at the begining!

nice to see decent power held to 5k on the second map

nice to see decent power held to 5k on the second map

Yeah, it really makes it a lot more flexible.

Apparently so I have been told

we see alot of re-maps with huge torque spikes at low rpm, and at high rpm the power tails off :(

Yeah, it really makes it a lot more flexible.

Decron, what does the model you mention top out at on a non public road?

Apparently about 140mph so I have been told...

It's quick around a track.

Apparently about 140mph so I have been told...

It's quick around a track.

Would a custom remap delivered across the range with more torque and bhp be possible? Do you lose power figures over a wider spread?

I understand it's drivablilty that counts but just for the pub talk

Would a custom remap delivered across the range with more torque and bhp be possible? Do you lose power figures over a wider spread?

I understand it's drivablilty that counts but just for the pub talk

Yes it would, although my map took three iterations to get it right. But it has delivered smooth continuous power and a bit more economy, i.e. a better driving experience, which is what we all want.