Blimey, scary thread!!! Coming on though Bas, nice one!

gears look ok Basil , quick question , does the front subframe have to come off to remove the transmission ?

I'm sure that someone who actually knows what they're doing will answer this with authority. From my point of view:

It's very tight if you want to separate the transmission from the engine and I believe it's highly recommended if not in fact essential.

With an impact wrench removing the subframe was quite quick and easy and it's not really heavy to move about.....

There are things you can do to make space like remove the driveshaft flanges while the box is still in the car, which I didn't need to do...

No doubt someone will be by shortly to speak from experience plus training with real authority, but that's my 2p worth mate....

Cheers

Bas

I only asked Basil , as we do Ford Galaxys at work and have never took the subby off to remove the transmission , but obviously the Fabia is a lot smaler so clearances maybe tighter , i've not done a back to back comparison between the two

I think when my mate will take mine out, he will drop the console/swingarm and take the box out the bottom, rather than the top. I think this is the case anyway. However, with my battery gone and my airbox pretty easy to remove, maybe out the top is better? :confused:

I think a certain techie one should say which is best. [cough, that's a hint Ross ]

Basil: You have made slightly more work for yourself than needed. It's better to take off the other casing (bell housing side) from the top and leave all the other gears in the other casing untouched.

Basil: You have made slightly more work for yourself than needed. It's better to take off the other casing (bell housing side) from the top and leave all the other gears in the other casing untouched.

How's my box coming along.

How's my box coming along.

Fecking stupid pile of rubbish skoda in exeter said their parts network was down 2 days ago and were supposed to get back to me if/when it's working again! :thumbdwn: Hate it when companys don't phone back, which happens every day.

Thanks for the info Alex - didn't know you could do it that way around TBH!

Oh well, got the diff out no problems, hope to do some drilling of rivets tmrw on the mill/drill....

BTW, what preload are you guys setting up?

Cheers

Bas

Thanks for the info Alex - didn't know you could do it that way around TBH!

Oh well, got the diff out no problems, hope to do some drilling of rivets tmrw on the mill/drill....

BTW, what preload are you guys setting up?

Cheers

Bas

Oh well you know for next time

The info Jason got me states a 0.3mm preload.

Have fun with your drilling!

Oh well you know for next time

The info Jason got me states a 0.3mm preload.

Have fun with your drilling!

It's murray Skoda now in newton abbot, not IML - they're now a seat garage.

If you look up Murray VW on internet it should come up with their number. I'd ring them up myself but I have no idea what you need to order.

Gears are fine Basil nowt to worry about there.

:eek: :eek: :eek:

I didn't know you were doing this on your own, mate! A big for having a go

I know when IP did my clutch, they didn't remove the subframe, but it was a right sight seing the engine half out of the car, and the front of the car in bits :eek:

The only think Rich said was that on occasions, the clutch gearing doesn't properly engage with the flywheel and there's no real way of knowing if it's ok until you've put it all back together again :eek: Don't know if I understood that right. Ross, any comment?

Really enjoying following this thread, hope all goes well

Best of luck, Mista Bas

Nice guys deserve lotsa luck

Now, all I need is a good eye surgeon so I don't have to search for my glasses all the time

decided to go against Alex's advice and drop off the OEM diff at my mate's machineshop:rofl:

Picked it up this pm and I'm really glad that I didn't drill them myself - there are 12 hardened steel rivets - would have taken a long time with a light-duty drill press....

Some pics of both diffs, with their fasteners...

Cheers

Bas

Next step: bolt the new diff to your ringgear.

for your offer by the way.

Crown wheel would be the correct name for it

Crown wheel would be the correct name for it

Given the number of boxes you've had apart and the number I have, I expect your right.

Oooh, officially half way there then Bas!!!

Next step: bolt the new diff to your ringgear.

who wants to see my ring gear:P

well done bas! nearly there:thumbup:

decided to go against Alex's advice and drop off the OEM diff at my mate's machineshop:rofl:

Picked it up this pm and I'm really glad that I didn't drill them myself - there are 12 hardened steel rivets - would have taken a long time with a light-duty drill press....

Some pics of both diffs, with their fasteners...

Cheers

Bas

For future reference the rivets are pretty soft and were easy to drill with a small pillar drill. Did them all in about 10 - 15 minutes.

oh well, had to spend the day with the family, so while I was hard at work the next day they were "taken care of".

The world runs through having good friends everywhere!

Made some more progress tonite... removed the DMF and fitted the new Steel SMF, clutch and pressure plate.

That DMF is heavy!!!

oooo thats sexy

Very nice Bas! I will be inspecting my clutch in full when the day comes to fit the donor gearbox.