as it is, I'm babying it - no way I'm gonna limp around - too blessedly dangerous out here!

What's funny is that although I looked at the DMF to SMF as a reliability upgrade for the future, it has seemed to have given the car much more response, revvability. Will know for sure after another 685km......

Tried out the LSD part of the equation on a large sweeping on-ramp to the motorway - the words "slingshot around" from web reviews do seem to be entirely appropriate!

Gotta keep it easy, bed the clutch, bed the clutch, bed the wench,umm bed the clutch........

Gotta keep it easy, bed the clutch, bed the clutch, bed the wench,umm bed the clutch........

You keep thinking that Baz :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sarah

i don't think he was referring to you Sarah :eek:

:P

Oooh no I know that , just made me chuckle how easy it is for a mans mind to wonder on the the s*x thing :P

Sarah

"six" ? "sox" ? :confused:

Good to hear your reviews Basil, given the fact my box should be ready soon. Any joy with the shims? I've only got back from my week off today, so have no idea on updates with my diff.

I love to kid about as all my mates can attest to

As far as the shimming - had to go to my mate's workshop, as my own cheapo DTI gauge has a wonky support arm, and I could not be 100% sure of my readings. Pretty simple in fact - with the upper case OEM shim out, races in and the standard non-adjusted 0.65 shim in place below, you close up 5 bolts to 25Nm (be careful I broke 2!).

Then you bed the bearings by pushing down and turning 8 times. Repeat same but while pushing up. Then you push up the diff vertically from below and measure how far it moves. In my case it was 0.90mm. Add in 0.30mm as "pre-load" (how tight you want the bearings seated in their races) and you get 1.20mm which was the shim I used. Open up and remove non-shimmed race, place shim under it and refit race. Then close up and pray!

My offer on the shims still stands Jase - if you know which ones you want sent over! Heard you got a well-deserved honey of a deal on your extra gearbox

BTW Jason, know you like losing weight off the car - hope you saw the interesting article which explains how changing over to a SMF is like dropping up to 100lb off the vehicle! http://www.briskoda.net/forums/maintenance-performance/interesting-article-lightened-flywheels/79574

Cheers

Bas

Would like an SMF but cannot afford the complete clutch package at the moment. I shall have to wait and see how my current clutch copes.

The shims would still be nice and I'll ask about which ones are needed. I don't think the garage bothered measuring there and then as I told them all the spare ones you had were being sent over.

I'll get on it asap m8, no probs.

Cheers

Bas

A real labour of love, Bas

Well done. :thumbup:

If it had been me I'd have ended up with four screws and two bolts too many + a few snapped bolts too (tighten it till it breaks, then back it off a quarter is my style :( )

Oh, and the air might have been a bit blue, too

Congrats

Now, when can I drive it :P

Thanks for the encouragement anonymouse - you're more than welcome to take her out for a spin whenever you're in the 'hood

Just read this thread from start to finish.

WELL DONE BAS! :orb_clap:

thanks mate, really kind of you.

Here's a .zip file of a recording of the in-cabin sound of "de dreaded clatter" - poor quality mobile phone recording - you need to turn up the volume pretty high to hear it properly! The engine is running in neutral with the clutch in, then out, then in, finally throttle is blipped. Clatter disappears above 1.2K rpm on its own. Hence the logic of adapting your idle faster to minimise it... Box oil warmed up after a morning drive... Really doesn't bother me in the slightest tbh....

Clatter.zip