New Page 1

and on that note, i'm guna make a rear strut brace (cuz i can) but need some design help.

should i link the two strut housing turrets, or the tops of the suspension struts them selfs???

http://www.strutbracer.co.uk/images/big/036AL74.jpg

or

http://www.strutbracer.co.uk/images/big/ompma1612.jpg

any ideas then?????.

have seen one done before to a fav on another forum. a bloke called ken made one for his . i think he mounted it to the strut housing

nice one mate. think i might weld one in.

ed, dont join the tops of the dampers together mate....

i'm not trying to sound picky, but unless the area it's mounted on if reinforced it will be purely cosmetic

thanks tom. working on a removable brace at the mow. so i can take it out, leaving the mounting in plates there. so i can put me bikes in, and then bolt it back in.

that way no tw@ **** a$$ hole can nick me bikes.

Sounds like a great anti-theft measure even if it doesn't imrove handling much.

thanks tom. working on a removable brace at the mow. so i can take it out, leaving the mounting in plates there. so i can put me bikes in, and then bolt it back in.

that way no tw@ **** a$$ hole can nick me bikes.

Can't the tw@ **** a$$ holes also remove your brace and nick your bikes :P

only of they have a tourqus set to hand.

its the only use i can think of for the dam things.

don't wanna pour water onto the fire but looking at the rear suspension set up underneath and that whacking great trailing arm bar would joining the top make a difference?

I am thinking this out in my head and to my knowledge the trailing arm is linked to the suspension of both rear wheels therefore if one wheel hits a huge pothole this will to some degree affect the other which will explain its rear wobble on cornering.

Unless each wheel was made more independant on what the other is doing then i cannot see what a strut brace would achieve if you know what i mean!!

You may know something i don't though and if there is a benefit let me know!!

would joining the top make a difference?

nope hth:D

Unless it's a genuinely rigid bar between the turret tops, no strut brace will make any difference. With bolts both ends, it's totally cosmetic.

this i have thought about. i wasnt planning to have one bolt per end like most, but was thinking more like three, so as the bar cant pivot.

only of they have a tourqus set to hand.

its the only use i can think of for the dam things.

couldnt you use a sort of like alloy's locking nut sort of thing to secure it in?

this i have thought about. i wasnt planning to have one bolt per end like most, but was thinking more like three, so as the bar cant pivot.

Well, that makes sense regarding hinging effects, but I still think that the brace is probably cosmetic. The alternative is that the bolts have to handle a significant sheer loading after all.

the idea is just to see what effect it has. there is flex in the body, im just trying to find the best place and way to counter it.

How do you fancy a full FIA roll-cage, or welding up the rear passenger doors? I'm being serious here; most shell flex comes from the passenger area and those big holes called door gaps, not from the suspension. That's why most race and rally classes use a 2 or 3 door shell if available; the much shorter door gaps give an intrinsically stiffer shell.

your right the holes in the back are the main twist points.

but the aim of this project is to make a felicia VRS, a factory sport if you will.

so i'm trying to keep the car looking as close to something that could have come out the factory as possible. the car must function as normal!

so, i'm trying to hide anything that looks like an after market bolt on.

i do have some plans for bracing to go under the car, but haven't had time to draw them up yet.

thanks for your input mind, is always good to bounce ideas about.

Is this any good?

Board Message

nice one, theres a point to start from. now to make it look a bit more "factory"

i'm on that forum somewhere by the way. but briskys better.