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Jolt on partial throttle after remap.

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I had a site where they were price at like £35 but I can't find it now :(

Not sure if I'd feel confident cleaning the throttle body and have no idea how to re-align it!

Wouldn't mind getting rid of my surge, just hope it's not damaging anything.

N75 shouldn't cost much to get replaced at a dealers, £50ish I'm guessing?! Anyone had it done?!

Realignment is done using VAGcom or similar; I'd expect it to be done as a matter of course by a remapper who's actually with the car.

It wont be the throttle body, anyway.

na its not the Throrrle body.........just to high lite something my cars have a Serious Cust map in it.....theres about 8 r 9 hours on mapping alone on this car from one of relands Best Mappers.

I think its just a show of what u need to change on the engine......worn parts etc etc,like anything if its weak if u work it harder itll show its fault Quicker.

I change the spring back to green the weekend in my forge 007 DV and its now running better, hardly any jolting at all. :)

I have (had) exactly what I think is being described in the original post on a Custom Code remap.. under quite specific conditions on part throttle, when the boost starts climbing quickly, if I lift off slightly it's like the boost drops away sharply. What I think happens is the dump valve lifting too early/quickly in response to the boost pressure rising underneth it, and the pressure reducing on the control port at the same time. I fortunately have a Forge-type piston valve with replaceable spring and a choice of springs to try - fitting a stiffer spring to hold the valve shut to a higher pressure reduces the effect considerably to the point where it's either not really an issue, or easy to drive round.

I have (had) exactly what I think is being described in the original post on a Custom Code remap.. under quite specific conditions on part throttle, when the boost starts climbing quickly, if I lift off slightly it's like the boost drops away sharply. What I think happens is the dump valve lifting too early/quickly in response to the boost pressure rising underneth it, and the pressure reducing on the control port at the same time. I fortunately have a Forge-type piston valve with replaceable spring and a choice of springs to try - fitting a stiffer spring to hold the valve shut to a higher pressure reduces the effect considerably to the point where it's either not really an issue, or easy to drive round.

Looks like its the map taking to your car, you got rid with a stronger spring i got rid with a weaker spring.:confused:

this happend to me, the ECU has to learn firstly this takes about 2K miles

then perform a throttle body alignment to do this follow the stpes bellow

1. )all you need to do is open the drivers door put the key in the ignition and turn it on untill the dash lights come on

2.) leave it for 3 mins you will hear nosise comming from under then bonnet leave the drivers door open do no close it.

3.) once all the nosie has stopped start the car and do not touch the trottle pedal leave it to tickover for 1 min

4.) turn the car off

5.) restart it as normal and it should be a lot smoother.

this worked for me, it makes the trottle re learn all of it positions the noise you can hear is the the trottle doing this.

Chris

this happend to me, the ECU has to learn firstly this takes about 2K miles

then perform a throttle body alignment to do this follow the stpes bellow

1. )all you need to do is open the drivers door put the key in the ignition and turn it on untill the dash lights come on

2.) leave it for 3 mins you will hear nosise comming from under then bonnet leave the drivers door open do no close it.

3.) once all the nosie has stopped start the car and do not touch the trottle pedal leave it to tickover for 1 min

4.) turn the car off

5.) restart it as normal and it should be a lot smoother.

this worked for me, it makes the trottle re learn all of it positions the noise you can hear is the the trottle doing this.

Chris

Sorry mate but that one is an old wives tale Vag Com is the only proper way to do it

What do you have to do with vag-com?

I'll give that a go, failing that get a new n75 and work from there.

Throttle Body Alignment

Turn the key on but do not start the car.

[01 - Engine]

[Measuring Blocks - 08]

Group 060 (may be Group 098 on cable-throttle cars)

[Go!]

[switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds, then press the [switch to measuring blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

Throttle Body Alignment

Turn the key on but do not start the car.

[01 - Engine]

[Measuring Blocks - 08]

Group 060 (may be Group 098 on cable-throttle cars)

[Go!]

[switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds, then press the [switch to measuring blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

That's what I was gonna say:)

Do you only really do this when you've taken the throttle body out, or are there advantages to just doing it? :)

Do you only really do this when you've taken the throttle body out, or are there advantages to just doing it? :)

Its good to re calibrate if the battery has been disconnected at any time.

Even though mine hadn't been disconnected, i did notice a difference on resetting it. Or it was in my head that there was a difference.:o

the most benefit is gained in conjunction with cleaning the oily carbon deposits away that accumulate round the throttle plate. Ideally the TB is whipped off so you can see what you are doing, but it is posssible to wipe it out in situ.

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