Hi. Have had a 1.9TDI Octavia Elegance for a couple of weeks now and apart from one thing I'm very pleased with it.

Sometimes on accelaration I hear what sounds like a road wheel intermittently hitting the wheel arch. This is not what it is, that is just the best way to describe the sound, ie a surging, slightly graunching sound of something turning. I'm also getting a slight misfire sometimes, again on accelaration, and very occasionally, the car won't go past a certain amount of revs, like it's hit a governer, but nowhere near the rediline. Anyone got any ideas? 2001, one previous owner FSH etc. DOing 53mpg (whole lot better than the Volvo T4 I had previously, 28mpg!).

If anyone thinks it is the ECU, which is what I'm thinking it may be, is it the same unit as on a VW Golf 1.9TDI (Bosch)? I can get hold of a new Golf one at a reasonable price. Anyone know if there is a Bosch no that would appear on both the Octavia & the VW ones so I could be sure it's correct?

The only other fault is my coolant light occasionally stays on & beeps, but not often. The level appears OK, and if I turn off the ignition & then on again the light goes out again. Any ideas, should I be worried? No sign of oil in coolant or vice versa.

Many thanks in advance!

Mike

Whoa there, before you start panicing about engine ECU's i'd be looking at the simple things like MAF's and the like. If you get a time where its not pulling try disconnecting it, if it goes better then thats your culprit.

If you use the search the coolant warning is well covered.

Yep, looked at coolant thread, but mine's been doing it at temperatures in the teens centigrade, not icy.

I took the car out just now, and accelarated in third and it went to 3300 rpm then would not go any further and the engine cut out (battery light came on). Easing off on the throtle and it was OK again. This was when the engine was not up to temp (1.5 miles driven from cold). Once up to temp tried it again and no problem, easily going up to 4000rpm.

I'll check out a few MAF threads. Is it worth getting fault codes checked at a dealer? Not that I've had a lamda light on so not sure if this would show up at the dealer.

Thanks.

Sounds like a MAF is a good contender to start with. For the coolant issue, just try cleaning the two metal probes in the coolant expanstion tank.

Might be sticking vanes in the turbo? 90 / 110 / 130?

Took the car out again after taking out the MAF & cleaning it with carb cleaner, still misbehaving. You guys have me worried now, I could source a new ECU for under £100, but having read a few turbo threads my wallet's feeling very vulnerable. What's the best way to test if it's MAF or turbo (it's a 110 bhp ASV engine)? As it seems a bit intermittent, will unplugging the MAF be enough to know for sure? I've ordered a cheap VAG COM lead & software off Ebay, will codes come up?

Am I likely to do more harm if I take it to the rev limiter to try & clear any possible soot on the turbo vanes?

Anyone dealt with Turners of Erlestoke, my nearest dealer? Is a trip to them the best way to diagnose what's wrong? Sorry for all the questions, but reading some threads seems to create more questions than answers!

You need to get the fault codes read, its the only real way of checking whats going on. The ecu is not an easy thing to swap, because the dashpod and ecu are tied together. A new/replacement ecu would need a dealer visit anyway to pair the 2 things together again, and this can only be done if you have the 4 digit immo code for both.

It doesn't sound like a sticky VNT. That usually goes like this:-

1) Starts engine and is fine.

2) Makes overtaking move, EMS light comes on; drives like it's got no boosy until:-

Branch

3) Parks up and engine stopped; go to (1)

4) Fault code read as "overboost", and deleted; go to (1).

End Branch.

I've booked it in for diagnostics next Monday, the earliest I could get it. Garage said it is sounding like a shot turbo (but can't really diagnose over the phone). Have looked around & the cheapest turbo (ASV engine) is £585 inc VAT. I'd then need to get it fitted. When my cheapo Vag Com lead comes, if I use it would it mess up readings that the garage will take next week? Obviously want to find out asap but not if it messes a 'proper' diagnosis. Shame I haven't got a spare £800 spare just waiting to spend on my car!

Readings will still be there unless you erase them.

With the ebay vag-com cable you will have to select the engine module and scan that way as auto scan won't work without registering and paying.

Well, am now a bit clearer on what noises I'm getting, hopefully this may be enough for someone to know if the turbo is kaput or not. Driving home, engine warm, if I put clutch in, rev to say 2k or 2.5k revs then take foot off, as soon as the engine revs have died down I can hear the slowing down of something spinning, probably only for less than half a second though. Tonight I took off the plastic engine cover and tried to hear this whirring and to use some timber as a stethescope to pinpoint it's location. However, could not get it to whirr whilst just on the drive. Seems odd, as it was not under load when I declutched and revved on the way home.

This limp mode is definitely intermittent, as sometimes it is happy to rev to 4.5k, and other times it hits 3k and will do no more.

Anyone know whether the this sound I'm getting is the turbo, and if so would that mean it is not buggered?? I know I have to wait until next week to get a dealer to look, but it's a long wait to find out if I'm going to be about £800 down!

Very grateful for any advice. Sorry I can't help with anyone else's posts but any knowledge I have is limited to v twin bikes!