Finally got round to fitting the Allard EGR delete pipe. As the intake manifold was also dirty, I decided to do the right thing and remove it for cleaning as well.

The EGR was filthy, and this with only about 20K (tuned) miles on the car - about 35% blockage. I has some issues with hesitation with startup that have gone away now (likely sticking EGR flap).

The manifold had about 3-4 mm of gooey sticky black crud that scraped off like dark cholocate icing. The actual intake ports had a full 2mm of the stuff choking the exits.

A whole can of carb cleaner was used then to clean it, and air blown through to make sure there was no residual cleaner left in the manifold. This has to be the dirtiest bit of DIY possible! Took me 3 days of scrubbing to clean my hands with you name it....

Results:

Excellent tbh - the car starts better, revs faster, less smoke, more power felt and power is smooth all the way to redline. I let the CEL issue put me off this mod for a long while - too bad.. Don't notice any shutdown shudder, even though I was expecting some...

Well worth the trouble and the considerable mess!

for earlier pics see: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/maintenance-performance/de-coking-tdi-engine/89753/

Cheers

Bas

Is this a hard job to do?

I used to do a little bit of work on my mini but havent touched the fabia.

Can u balls it right up if you dont no what your doing?

Its obviously worth doing, my car is coming up to 3 years old and has 29,000 miles on it, would it be worth paying a mechanic to do the work?

how many hours of labour do you think they would charge me?

If you just want it cleaned, perhaps 2 hours. Easy enough to whip the EGR/mainfold assembly off the car. But if you want to clean the actual manifold that means unbolting the manifold off the head, which is tricky due to lack of space. The cleaning itself will take most time I reckon.

Not that hard to do, tbh. Took me about 3-4 hours:

unclip rubber air hoses either side of intake manifold.

Unbolt EGR from manifold and turbo.

3x 5mm head allen bolts to intake, 2x 10mm (or was it 12mm?) bolts to turbo.

If you're fitting a EGR delete pipe - fit the blanking plate now - you dont want to drop anything inside the turbo! otherwise cover with a plastic bag/elastic band.

Remove 2 tight rubber vac hoses from EGR

unbolt 2x 10mm bolts from top and Left of intake manifold.

unbolt intake manifold 6x 6mm allen key head bolts - you'll need to feel for them and/or use a mirror.

Pull off manifold and remove metal gasket.

on re-assembly - use a new metal gasket (preffered). Need to judge (guess) 18 Nm of torque - just tight and then a bit....The intake bolts need a combo of different length 6mm allen keys - some ball-headed ones would've helped, but I didnt have any...

Really FILTHY job - anything you wear will become garbage....

If you plan it as an overnight job - soak the manifold in some solvent in an enclosed container.

Things to watch out for - dropping stuff into the turbo/EGR union (very bad). That's why if you have a blanking plate - fit it first...

But it really is worth it....

HTH

Bas

sorry for bringing up an old post butt... like you say there are 2 hoses on the EGR valve...but only one hose connector on the new delete pipe. what do you do with the second?

sorry for bringing up an old post butt... like you say there are 2 hoses on the EGR valve...but only one hose connector on the new delete pipe. what do you do with the second?

Mod Boy beat me to it, I have a Jabba EGR Bypass to fit this weekend so I had a look at the current EGR Valve and there are a couple hoses going into it, what do you do with these?

Thanks, John

The two hoses going in to the EGR are left open to atmosphere when its changed.

The Nipple is for fitting a boost gauge etc. if you are so inclined.

your a legend mate, so if i make one i dont need to put a tail pipe on it? can i just join these two pipes together with a straight through connector? or will that cause problems?

I wouldnt contact them together , just leave them open

And if your making one and you dont want a gauge or water injection etc then just miss out the nipple.

Thanks for the info, anyone got a pic of their EGR bypass assembly? I have a boost take off nipple on my Jabba pipe so cant fit it till my boost gauge arrives however when I do get round to fitting it if the 2 pipes are redundant can I completely remove them to make the install neater? What function do they have?

Thanks, John

Not mine but this pic was in another thread.

http://briskoda.net/fabia-i/silicon-bend-pipe-into-egr/117759/

Some more in this thread http://briskoda.net/fabia-i/stainless-boost-hose/128475/#post1503569

And a good thread here: http://briskoda.net/fabia-i/allard-egr-power-pipe-few-observations/100939/

That should keep you busy :P

Thanks for the links, I see you do literally cut the pipe and leave it - on the above pic, the blue pipe to the right is that coming from a take off nipple on the back of the allard? Just wondering as Im not familiar with this bypass pipe - I have a Jabba one (same thing I know). As in one of the links above I also have a stainless Steel boost pipe and a 90degree bend so Im really looking forward to getting it all fitted - see if there's any difference in performance? I'm guessin it's a good idea to do the Elephant hose mod inconjunction with all the above so I best go and buy a bit of pipe for that now!

Thanks all, John

John

I just pulled the vacumn hose off mine and blocked both holes..

I blocked mine with a couple of bolts, folded the ends over and put a plastic tie-wrap over top.

Overkill or what?

is it OK to soak the EGR valve in carb cleaner over night to REALLY clean it? or will that mess up the rubber and the valve mechanism?

i used some stuff called powersolve on mine and it took all the crap off with out the need to soak.

fitted my custom made egr delete. had lo block it off at the manifold and completely remove the egr pipe coming up to the valve as it had cracked . It has thrown my engine management light up even though the egr has been turned dow on my map.

Strange how it ran for a good 100 mile until the light came up. im guessing its because it was the only time the car got to sit still at idle since i did it lol .

Also had the cat removed and now its really smooth all the way through the revs. apart from judder when i turn the engine and a rougher tick over... which i expected.

Pull off manifold and remove metal gasket.

Bas

Have you any idea of the part number for this gasket? if not what should I ask my local skoda dealer for when I give him a ring?

Thanks, John:)

Many people re-use the metal gasket np - just give it a clean in carb cleaner if you want to be extra careful....

HTH

Bas

Many people re-use the metal gasket np - just give it a clean in carb cleaner if you want to be extra careful....

HTH

Bas

Thanks Bas, I just presumed you would have to replace them as a rule of thumb but I'll just clean it up now! My local Skoda dealer sent me a fax of the ETKA page with the part shown so I could be sure its the right gasket, they are quoting £5.00 a gasket so if I can re-use them thats a bonus

John

Finally got this all fitted including removing the manifold and unleashing a whole can of carb cleaner on it! 70k miles worth of serious oily sludge build up, proper messy job but the car definately feels smoother through the rev range! Only problem is that Ive gone and bought the wrong boost gauge (20psi) and the thing is buzzing off the scale despite fitting a little plastic regulator valve!

I drove 30 miles yesterday and the CEL light is on, I knew this was going to happen but what do I have to do to get this turned off? Is it a simple vag com job? I get the impression that its a bit more difficult reading other posts?

I'll put some pictures up later as I also changed the OEM clips on boost pipes etc with some snazzy red silicone hosing and did the CCV elephant mod.

John