The MAF is new.

The clutch switch is new...

Now im Crying...

Normally I'd say it was the MAF and/or a gunked up throttle body, but you say you've replaced both, so it can't be them.

I know that on my old cable-throttle Audi 1.8T I could watch the throttle body adjusting itself to control the mix, and the mechanic explained how crap builds up over time and prevents the valve having the full range of motion that it needs. That's why a good clean often helps jerky idles.

I'm afraid I don't have anything else to suggest, but if it was me then I'd be thinking that my next route would be to find out if the ECU is messing about, and I'd end up going to an audi/vw/skoda specialist to get their thoughts on it, maybe ask if they'd be willing to lend me an ECU to try or something.

Hang on - have you investigated Lambda (oxygen) sensors (in the exhaust, I think one either side (i.e. upstream and downstream) of the catalytic converter).

If they are not reading correctly then they can definitely affect fuel control.

These can be checked using Vagcom.

I am going to Skoda again tonight on my way home to cry on the mechanics shoulder, i have a chair of my own there now, and they are talking about giving me my own bed !!!

The ECU idea crossed my mind but as its soooooo expensive i put it to the back of my head.......but they are good at skoda as anything i buy and i dont need/ or it makes no diffference i take back for a full refund...Skoda service is exelent.....If i try a new ECU would i have to have it set on the computer after or would i be able to tell if it works as soon as i conect it ????

Like I say, check the lambda sensors so you can cross them off the list.

Hi!

Check the petrol-pump and filter also - maybe low pressure at idle??

If all the sensors are OK, and there is no air-leak, then the fault is either in the Fuel-system or in the Ignition-system - as simple and as complicated as that.

Where in Norway do you live?

JAN

I am so happy that you said that, i suggested this to the garage the first day i took it in, and they said, No way, it would work or it would not work...i disagree as i had a pump die on a mercedes i had and it failed over time not all of a sudden,

What way can i safly check the pump and its pressure, and where is it...Under the back of the car or up front etc...

is there a web site where i can see an exploded picture of the pump and its parts ????

I live in Stavanger by day (work) and Egersund by night (my lovely house)

I think the pump on the petrol Octys actually lives in the fuel tank, and is accessed through a trapdoor in the boot floor, so you don't have to drop the tank to get at it.

Hi again! Best to take it here, not just in PM's :-D

I talked to my buddy - an ex car car-mechanic (now repairing watches). He has no recent experience with Skoda - except mine. He owns a SAAB. He told that when changing bits in his SAAB, he needed to have a diagnostic tool to install the new bits in the enginge management. He did not know if this was the case with VAG.

His suggestions were:

1. False air - To close the air-leak theory, you should also check the vacuum-hose to the brake-assistant. It is possible to get an air-leak there - even from the brake-assistant.

2. Sensors - The next thing he mentioned was the Lambda. If this is a 1 or 2-way Lambda, you might NOT get a fault-code in the diagnostic. The only way is to try a new Lambda. Your mechanic can answer this.

3. Fuel system - He also mentioned the petrol-supply - filter/pump - maybe low pressure at idle, but assumed that with such a fault the engine would probably have problems all the time, not just at idle.

BUT he thougt the fuel-pressure-valve was worth checking. This should be connected to the fuel-rail AND the inlet-manifoild.

4. Ignition system - Old coil/spark-plug (HT)wires, giving higher resistance. Also check the distributor.

JAN

ok thanks, but is there a way of checking the pumps pressure etc ?????

Sorry, but I do not know..

I'm not sure what the pump pressure would tell you about over-fuelling issues. In most petrol-injection cars the LP pump over-supplies at full throttle, with the excess being used as a coolant, and returned to the main tank.

cheers, i will suggest this all to skoda tonight and see if they can help me, i hope this is fixed soon as i drive around with my 2 little monsters (kids) in the car and i am worried about being let down machanicly and leaving me stranded.....oooohhhhh ho hum the joys of cars, I love Skoda but why ooh why cant it be as simple as somthing that is brocken and needs changing..

Skoda has made a small fortune out of me in the past month, and my bank is loving my credit card.

But my poor car needs fixing,

There logo is simply skoda....but i am starting to think they should change it to complicated skoda...

Still if anything springs to mind other than everything and all you have suggested your help is always apreciated.

Thanks, James.

Just to keep people up to date,

The machanics at skoda left early last night so the booking i had is being moved to today, no further news as yet.

Apart from the fact my cars revs have stoped and they are perfect now ????????????????????????????????????? But i am now getting the other related problem (the revs droping rapidly when i lift of the acelorator slightly then cming back up to positio) but it is worse, cousing the car to jerk when i am in low revs/power !!!!!!!

And when i floor it below 2.000 revs it feels like the car has tacken a huge gulp of air and fuel and momenerily stalls then the powers back...

Has this shed any light on the problem it could be???????????

You probably require any fault codes to removed as well the ecu being reset, the ecu will still be holding any old values..

If this still doesn't work then disconnect the maf and see if it makes any difference, if it does it's the maf otherwise...........???

I have tried to diconect the MAF many a time with no difference, the only way things make a difference are if i disconect the wires from the throttlr body, then the car runs like a sweet sweet dream, so know i know it must be electricle, but what?? what indeed is the question...

Apart from the MAF and the coolent sensor, what else is electronicly connected to the throttle body via the electricle cables that would couse a problem soon as they are reconnected ???

At least i have got rid of the leaking air idea...

Now i am at a whole new world of....what the hell is it ????????

It also rules out the fuel pump idea too...

Our 1999 1.6i 75 bhp Lxi has the same symptoms as James in Norway's. Previous to the symptoms starting the brake light sensor broke and whilst checking to find the fault I did take out some fuses to check them. Next time the car was driven the symptoms started. Maybe I triggered a failure.

Interested to know if James tried anything after removing the wires to the throttle body or if any other members have any ideas.